why does a b18b1 only rev at 3500rpm??????????
I just did a swap on my EF (crx) a b18b1 but the **** is that my check engine is on (yes i connected everything) and when I rev my engine it gives out at 3500rpm Im not sure what could it be I tried different ECU's but nothing. One of my homies told me it might be the throttle sensor (and well the thing is that since i put the motor from under well the engine leand backwards and it cracked
the sensor's plastic cover but it still clicks when i connected.) Anybody haves an idea of whut is happening if so let me know plz I would appreciated.
thanx!
the sensor's plastic cover but it still clicks when i connected.) Anybody haves an idea of whut is happening if so let me know plz I would appreciated.thanx!
Limp mode is what happens when something is fucked up bad. If the light stays solid and gives no codes that's a solid cel, which means dead ecu or bad wiring somewhere or something similarly bad. If the ecu is known good start checking your wiring.
Hey guys new to forum, but I'm dealing with the same situation 1991 crx si with b18b1 ls pr4
build went good then after 2500 miles . till I had experienced a situation where my brake booster built up to much vacuum or something to the degree. Causing the brakes to be applied without knowing. car starts to get hot but not but 25 to 30° past oem honda standard.. after getting car home and starting the next day it was in a 3500 rpm limp mode.. I will try and lend a hand with information thanx guys
build went good then after 2500 miles . till I had experienced a situation where my brake booster built up to much vacuum or something to the degree. Causing the brakes to be applied without knowing. car starts to get hot but not but 25 to 30° past oem honda standard.. after getting car home and starting the next day it was in a 3500 rpm limp mode.. I will try and lend a hand with information thanx guys
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It does hav some codes . I will be documenting this ordeal the best I can so it may benefit others. I only go to my shop on weekends at my dad's house so it will be a week friday or Saturday before I can get back on it
Iv owned ef models and crx models from the start in 2006 wen I first got my dL .. but thus one needs help it's a chop job of improper wiring I will get back thanx
And for sure getting new dizzy the car was converted to obd1 by former owner and wen car was parked it got striped of the obdo-obd1 jumper harness dizzy and ecu . So the guy just threw stuff on it to get the car sold I anyways till next time
Does have codes I now it was previously converted to obd1 but everything was converted back leaving a wire loom mess. Its definitely not solid cell, it is throwing code I'll get codes this weekend and post my findings.. I appreciate and help ben a few years off the honda horse lol
Miss understanding,, I own the shop where the car is located it's my personal shop for my and frends cars .. and no lie about taking the car to a paid shop wen I can read the codes. I just have to wait till Saturday with a good battery to put on can , I'm just happy it's not a solid cell and the pr4 still throws codes
Miss understanding,, I own the shop where the car is located it's my personal shop for my and frends cars .. and no lie about taking the car to a paid shop wen I can read the codes. I just have to wait till Saturday with a good battery to put on can , I'm just happy it's not a solid cell and the pr4 still throws codes

Also check for swapped sensor connectors, which is an easy mistake to make during the engine swap.
I just did a swap on my EF (crx) a b18b1 but the **** is that my check engine is on (yes i connected everything) and when I rev my engine it gives out at 3500rpm Im not sure what could it be I tried different ECU's but nothing. One of my homies told me it might be the throttle sensor (and well the thing is that since i put the motor from under well the engine leand backwards and it cracked
the sensor's plastic cover but it still clicks when i connected.) Anybody haves an idea of whut is happening if so let me know plz I would appreciated.
thanx!
the sensor's plastic cover but it still clicks when i connected.) Anybody haves an idea of whut is happening if so let me know plz I would appreciated.thanx!
Hey guys new to forum, but I'm dealing with the same situation 1991 crx si with b18b1 ls pr4
build went good then after 2500 miles . till I had experienced a situation where my brake booster built up to much vacuum or something to the degree. Causing the brakes to be applied without knowing. car starts to get hot but not but 25 to 30° past oem honda standard.. after getting car home and starting the next day it was in a 3500 rpm limp mode.. I will try and lend a hand with information thanx guys
build went good then after 2500 miles . till I had experienced a situation where my brake booster built up to much vacuum or something to the degree. Causing the brakes to be applied without knowing. car starts to get hot but not but 25 to 30° past oem honda standard.. after getting car home and starting the next day it was in a 3500 rpm limp mode.. I will try and lend a hand with information thanx guys
Ok guys soo I'm really stoked at the situation I'm at shop ran codes 4 came up (24) (3) (7) (8)
but I messed with wiring for a bit before chasing the codes and car runs now with no limiter at 3500
but I messed with wiring for a bit before chasing the codes and car runs now with no limiter at 3500
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