I have an extra d-series motor here and was thinking on building it. I know most would probably say scrap it and move to a DOHC motor but I don't intend to. I want to play around with what I got and would like H-T's opinions on whether this build should be concentrated on N/A or on Boost. I already have a boosted z6 motor right now so putting a turbo on wouldn't be hard. However, if the path is to boost, I'd like to know what are some upgrades I can do to the motor itself so it can withstand more boost since my current z6-t is on stock internals. Thanks guys.

 

how u going to use the car?

street, be original and supercharge it . don't think you'll ever have to drop a gear again.

 

Boost

 

I concur with boost as I am following the same path.

It doesn't seem like you can get 200whp N/A out of these things, but boosted it should be pretty easy.
B

 

Yeah sounds like boosting would be the cheapest and fun. But I'm aiming for over 200whp safely and was wondering what internal motor upgrades would be sufficient in making that happen. I'm also not limiting myself to just over 200whp either.

 

Low comp pistons, forged rods and possibly sleeve the block. Depending on the rods/pistons/sleeves you use you could be good for 0-400+ hp.

If you're looking for 200whp plenty of people have done it on a stock block and a good tune. But 250 is pretty safe with just rods and pistons.

 

you need to PM Bense for D-series ideas.

 

would you like to sell that motor d16 z6. ill buy . if you wanted to sell it

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by divisionskate &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how u going to use the car?

street, be original and supercharge it . don't think you'll ever have to drop a gear again.</TD></TR></TABLE>...SUPERCHARGE IT...you gotta be kidding right? THE REAL form of FORCED INDUCTION: TURBOcharge

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by coupedragracing &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">would you like to sell that motor d16 z6. ill buy . if you wanted to sell it</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'll think about the sale.

What are some low compression pistons out there in the market?

 

don't forget the head-gasket option. Thats a cheap way to lower compression just slightly.
but for good pistons, JE SRP is cheap and good for 300hp, Eagle rods are about 380.

You may be able to go with some OEM stuff and get a suitable Compression ratio (like 8.8:1) and just run a good 15psi and tune on that.

Oh I'll say it since it hasn't been said- one of the most important things will be a good proper tune and management. Definately don't skip on that.
B

 

stay d and boost it..motor is light and can do 200-400 sleeved and tuned..also parts r cheaper for a d

 

Boost is overrated

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by electronbluehatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">stay d and boost it..motor is light and can do 200-400 sleeved and tuned..also parts r cheaper for a d</TD></TR></TABLE>

What does sleeving the block do?

 

when buying pistons, how do I know which type is right for me? flat, dome, dish?
Also which bore type do I need if it's a stock z6 block?
Will sleeving the block affect the bore size?

 

bump with some new questions...

1. Will port and polish (on the head) be safe for boosting 10+ psi's?
2. Will stock sized Valves handle over 230whp?
3. Will Crower Stage 3 Cams work on a turbo D? (quite expensive, so are there any over good aftemarket cam that aren't as expensive as the Crowers?)
4. How do you check if a head's been bored of not?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fms1day &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">bump with some new questions...

1. Will port and polish (on the head) be safe for boosting 10+ psi's?
2. Will stock sized Valves handle over 230whp?
3. Will Crower Stage 3 Cams work on a turbo D? (quite expensive, so are there any over good aftemarket cam that aren't as expensive as the Crowers?)
4. How do you check if a head's been bored of not?</TD></TR></TABLE>

1. yes, just don't start dremeling away yourself, this will make it worse (unless you REALLY know what you're doing
2. yes
3. very aggressive all motor cams and boost don't match. read up on overlap + forced induction
4. heads aren't really bored. Well, my head is pretty bored when I read some of the typical threads on this site...but that's a different issue all together

Why am I posting all this with my n00b account instead of my usual account?

I DUNNO!

 

thanks!

 

boost!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdm_holla &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Why am I posting all this with my n00b account instead of my usual account?

I DUNNO! </TD></TR></TABLE>

Duplicate accounts....isn't the grounds for auto banning?

 

BTW guys, when 'valves' are bent... are they noticable when you take the actual valve out? I'm asking because I received a z6 head with bent valves as stated by the seller. I looked under the head and noticed two exhaust valves and two intake valves opened at TDC. Now the thing is.. I removed the rocker arm assembly and the cams. Looked back under and all of them were closed now!!!!

So I decided to take each valve out and started on one side. Took 7 of them out and found that they all looked straight. Now considering, before anything was removed there were two valves opened on each side, I should have encountered a bent valve by the 7th valve. So I'm wondering when it's a 'bent' valve... Are they usually noticable when you pull the valve out?