Here is the Setup:
99 Civic Hatch Dx
2" Piping Exhaust
Paxton FMU
Turbonetics Wastegate set @ 3.63 PSI
Garrett M10 (T3) Turbo
Exhaust Manifold (Generic)
HKS Blow Off Valve
Upgraded Injectors (Not Sure of cc yet)
GREDDY Full Auto Turbo Timer
Generic Intercooler
All Piping
Guages:
Vacuum/Boost
Air/Fuel
Field's Air Fuel Controller (Not sure if I should use)
I believe that's it

I am planning on running 3-5psi.
I need to know if I need a Map sensor bypass valve setup? Second I need to know if a Oil Catch can is the same as a Dry sump tank. If not then which one do I need? If you think that I am missing anything let me know. any info would be great. thanks.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fliptout &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Here is the Setup:
99 Civic Hatch Dx
2" Piping Exhaust
Paxton FMU
Turbonetics Wastegate set @ 3.63 PSI
Garrett M10 (T3) Turbo
Exhaust Manifold (Generic)
HKS Blow Off Valve
Upgraded Injectors (Not Sure of cc yet)
GREDDY Full Auto Turbo Timer
Generic Intercooler
All Piping
Guages:
Vacuum/Boost
Air/Fuel
Field's Air Fuel Controller (Not sure if I should use)
I believe that's it

I am planning on running 3-5psi.
I need to know if I need a Map sensor bypass valve setup? Second I need to know if a Oil Catch can is the same as a Dry sump tank. If not then which one do I need? If you think that I am missing anything let me know. any info would be great. thanks.</TD></TR></TABLE>

ditch the Fmu, the air to fuel controller is basically the same thing as a fmu. Convert to obd1(about $235) and run crome, hondata, uberdata, anthing besides a fmu. You need something to control timing or kiss you ringlands good bye

ditch the air fuel gauge, its just a light show and run a wideband O2 sensor.

as long as you dont exceed 11 psi stock map sensor will be fine.

upgrade the exhaust or run a cutout of the downpipe, that exhaust will be a set back in your gain.

most importantly, get it tuned professionally. you might have heard this but tuning will make it reliable! You can do just as much damage at 3 psi as you could 8psi.

 

When you say a cutout of the downpipe what do you mean? Upgrade exhaust to what? 2.5" piping or do you mean some other way of upgrading it?

 

For A cutout on the downpipe is a y pipe placed in the downpipe, under or around the area of the oil pan. there are manual and electric cutouts. the the cutout closed the exhaust is routed through the entire exhaust out the muffler. With the cutout open the exhaust dumps out through the cutout. It decreases spool time and increases power

 

3 psi???? Is that even worth the time?

 

You can always build off of that start. 3psi is pretty low, you could do 6-8 psi safely. I ran 15 psi stock internals, and 16psi the rod snapped. But on my my current motor im back at 10psi

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Elite Hatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">3 psi???? Is that even worth the time?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Can you even run boost that low? A boost controller only lets you adjust the PSI to the lowest PSI your wastegate is set at? I dont know because running less than 7psi would be a waste of time, effort and money IMO.

 

if you a run a 3.63 spring in the wastegate, and depending on the turbo, be it externally gated or internal, he could short the actuator arm up. id recommend 5-7psi