Sealed Sub Enclosure Cutout Dimensions Help
Well,
Normally I never have a problems getting dimensions for a subwoofer box to cutout. Usually the manufactures website would tell you the dimensions that the box needs to be, you add the wood thickness and you go cut it out. But all this damn manufacture tells me is the cuft size it needs to be, nothing else. I am trying to figure out the cutout dimensions of a sealed enclosure. I've spoke to FCM, he gave me a few options but is still unsure about a few things.
Subwoofer: 2005 Resonant Engineering (RE) Audio 12" XXX
Specs:
12”
Mounting Depth - 12.75”
Mounting Hole Diameter - 11.375”
Overall Diameter - 13”
Bolt Hole Circle - 12.25”
Motor Width -10.5”
Motor Depth - 5”
Basket Depth - 7.75”
Displacement - .24 cu. ft.
Weight - 72 lbs.
-Taken from RE Audio forum.
Sealed Enclosure needs to be:
XXX12 - SQ - 0.8 cuft Sealed
Sub T/S Specs:
XXX12
FS: 27.0Hz
Re: 1.9DVC
Qms: 4.52
Qes: 0.44
Qts: 0.4
Sd Cm2: 480
Vas: 56.5
Xmax 1way Linear: 32mm
BL: 17.1
SPL 1W/1m: 85.9
RMS: 1600W
Max: 2500W
-Both above taken from manufacture website http://www.reaudio.com
If you could help get the dimensions for the cutout, for the sealed box, would highly appreciate it.
Is 3/4" MDF wood sufficient? Or should I use 1" MDF Wood?
Thanks again
Normally I never have a problems getting dimensions for a subwoofer box to cutout. Usually the manufactures website would tell you the dimensions that the box needs to be, you add the wood thickness and you go cut it out. But all this damn manufacture tells me is the cuft size it needs to be, nothing else. I am trying to figure out the cutout dimensions of a sealed enclosure. I've spoke to FCM, he gave me a few options but is still unsure about a few things.
Subwoofer: 2005 Resonant Engineering (RE) Audio 12" XXX
Specs:
12”
Mounting Depth - 12.75”
Mounting Hole Diameter - 11.375”
Overall Diameter - 13”
Bolt Hole Circle - 12.25”
Motor Width -10.5”
Motor Depth - 5”
Basket Depth - 7.75”
Displacement - .24 cu. ft.
Weight - 72 lbs.
-Taken from RE Audio forum.
Sealed Enclosure needs to be:
XXX12 - SQ - 0.8 cuft Sealed
Sub T/S Specs:
XXX12
FS: 27.0Hz
Re: 1.9DVC
Qms: 4.52
Qes: 0.44
Qts: 0.4
Sd Cm2: 480
Vas: 56.5
Xmax 1way Linear: 32mm
BL: 17.1
SPL 1W/1m: 85.9
RMS: 1600W
Max: 2500W
-Both above taken from manufacture website http://www.reaudio.com
If you could help get the dimensions for the cutout, for the sealed box, would highly appreciate it.
Is 3/4" MDF wood sufficient? Or should I use 1" MDF Wood?
Thanks again
Actually the 2005 Sub Specs are wrong, that's for the 2006 model. The Sub T/S Specs are in fact for the 2005 model though. I will be getting the correct information for the 2005 model subwoofer specs soon.
PS: I actually measured the subwoofer itself, and from under the lip down to magnet is 7 1/2" and 8 1/4" from bottom to complete top of lip. And the driver displacement is I believe .19 . I emailed RE to asked them directly for the 2005 specs.
Somebody helped me and gave me these dimensions.
12.5 deep x 15.5 wide x 13.75 tall. top and bottom: 11 x 15.5". sides: 12.25 x 11. front and back: 15.5 x 13.75
Are these correct?
PS: I actually measured the subwoofer itself, and from under the lip down to magnet is 7 1/2" and 8 1/4" from bottom to complete top of lip. And the driver displacement is I believe .19 . I emailed RE to asked them directly for the 2005 specs.
Somebody helped me and gave me these dimensions.
12.5 deep x 15.5 wide x 13.75 tall. top and bottom: 11 x 15.5". sides: 12.25 x 11. front and back: 15.5 x 13.75
Are these correct?
You could always reverse engineer the box.
Find total required airspace.
ex: XXX12 - SQ - 0.8 cuft Sealed +driver displacement-Displacement - .24 cu. ft.
gives you 1.04 cubic feet.
Add any internal bracing to this figure.....just using the normal area formula (LxWxH), in inches, then convert this figure to cuft by dividing by 1728....(12x12x12)
Now, assuming you use no internal bracing( last little bit was to show how to figure how much area to account for ), multiply 1.04x1728. Now your volume has been converted to inches.
This gives you 1797.12 cuin.
You can now divide this figure by length,width, or height. Using any 2 of these will leave you the last dimension.
Say you need the box to be 20 inches long( internal ), and 13 inches tall( internal ).
1797.12 divided by 20=89.856
Now take 89.856 and divide it by 13
This leaves you an internal depth of 6.912 inches....I would just round that up to 7 inches.
Using this formula, your external dimensions would be 21.5x14.5x8.5 inches using .75" thick wood.
Using your figures, I came up with around 0.90 cuft after driver displacement.
I would think it would work nicely if it is what they specify.
This is the way I have done boxes in the past, and they have turned out to sound good in my opinion. However if anything I posted is incorrect, please post what it is. I by no means do this for a living, and would love to know how to make my boxes better as well
Find total required airspace.
ex: XXX12 - SQ - 0.8 cuft Sealed +driver displacement-Displacement - .24 cu. ft.
gives you 1.04 cubic feet.
Add any internal bracing to this figure.....just using the normal area formula (LxWxH), in inches, then convert this figure to cuft by dividing by 1728....(12x12x12)
Now, assuming you use no internal bracing( last little bit was to show how to figure how much area to account for ), multiply 1.04x1728. Now your volume has been converted to inches.
This gives you 1797.12 cuin.
You can now divide this figure by length,width, or height. Using any 2 of these will leave you the last dimension.
Say you need the box to be 20 inches long( internal ), and 13 inches tall( internal ).
1797.12 divided by 20=89.856
Now take 89.856 and divide it by 13
This leaves you an internal depth of 6.912 inches....I would just round that up to 7 inches.
Using this formula, your external dimensions would be 21.5x14.5x8.5 inches using .75" thick wood.
Using your figures, I came up with around 0.90 cuft after driver displacement.
I would think it would work nicely if it is what they specify.
This is the way I have done boxes in the past, and they have turned out to sound good in my opinion. However if anything I posted is incorrect, please post what it is. I by no means do this for a living, and would love to know how to make my boxes better as well
The subwoofer specs I posted in the first post is wrong, that is for the 2006 model and I have a 2005 model. The 2005 model I have is actually .19 displacement, and is around 7 1/2" tall from magnet till under the lip. But I will get the exact information from RE when they reply my email or i'll call them afterwork and post them.
Modified by shyboy817 at 6:31 AM 6/28/2006
Modified by shyboy817 at 6:31 AM 6/28/2006
Spoke to a RE Audio Tech directly, they told me the box was going to be 14x14x14 all around. And the cutout dimensions was (2) 14x14, (2) 14x12.5, (2)12.5x12.5, and that this was using 3/4" MDF wood and that's what they recommend. And they said this should be a 0.8cuft box, or around there. What do you guys think?
Here is the correct specs that RE Audio Tech gave me, for the 05 RE XXX 12"
FS 27.0HZ
Re 1.9DVC
Qms 4.52
Qes 0.44
Qts 0.4
SD cm2 480
Vas 56.5 l
Xmax 1 way linear 32mm
BL 17.1
SPL 1W/1M 85.9
RMS 1600w
MAX 2500.w
Cutout 11 1/8
Displacement 0.19cu ft
Mounting Depth 8â€
Weight 56lb
Sealed Enclosure .75-1.5 cu ft
Ported 1.6-2.5@34hz
FS 27.0HZ
Re 1.9DVC
Qms 4.52
Qes 0.44
Qts 0.4
SD cm2 480
Vas 56.5 l
Xmax 1 way linear 32mm
BL 17.1
SPL 1W/1M 85.9
RMS 1600w
MAX 2500.w
Cutout 11 1/8
Displacement 0.19cu ft
Mounting Depth 8â€
Weight 56lb
Sealed Enclosure .75-1.5 cu ft
Ported 1.6-2.5@34hz
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just going with what you gave...
i take this is in inches, 14*14*14, this is 2744 cubic inches.
to get cubic feet, you divide by 1728 (12*12*12), this is 1.59 cubic feet
subtracting the thickness of the stock will get you to the range you need to be in. two opposing ends will cap the 4 sides. these two end pieces are full width so it will be 14x14. of the remaing 4, two sides will cap the other two sides. thus these will also be full width but not as tall by 1.5 -> 14x12.5. the last two pieces are smaller by 1.5 on all sides so it is 12.5x12.5. i hope you see that no one side ever exceeds 14".
honestly, you will have to draw this out to be able to visualize this because most overlap at the corners so one is longer and the other is shorter. if you do 45 degree mitered corners on all edges, every side can be 14x14.
i take this is in inches, 14*14*14, this is 2744 cubic inches.
to get cubic feet, you divide by 1728 (12*12*12), this is 1.59 cubic feet
subtracting the thickness of the stock will get you to the range you need to be in. two opposing ends will cap the 4 sides. these two end pieces are full width so it will be 14x14. of the remaing 4, two sides will cap the other two sides. thus these will also be full width but not as tall by 1.5 -> 14x12.5. the last two pieces are smaller by 1.5 on all sides so it is 12.5x12.5. i hope you see that no one side ever exceeds 14".
honestly, you will have to draw this out to be able to visualize this because most overlap at the corners so one is longer and the other is shorter. if you do 45 degree mitered corners on all edges, every side can be 14x14.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CB7.v2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">just going with what you gave...
i take this is in inches, 14*14*14, this is 2744 cubic inches.
to get cubic feet, you divide by 1728 (12*12*12), this is 1.59 cubic feet
subtracting the thickness of the stock will get you to the range you need to be in. two opposing ends will cap the 4 sides. these two end pieces are full width so it will be 14x14. of the remaing 4, two sides will cap the other two sides. thus these will also be full width but not as tall by 1.5 -> 14x12.5. the last two pieces are smaller by 1.5 on all sides so it is 12.5x12.5. i hope you see that no one side ever exceeds 14".
honestly, you will have to draw this out to be able to visualize this because most overlap at the corners so one is longer and the other is shorter. if you do 45 degree mitered corners on all edges, every side can be 14x14.</TD></TR></TABLE>
The information that I gave you is straight from the manufacture company's tech, said using 3/4" MDF wood I would be using those specific sizes, i'm jus tmaking sure they are correct.
i take this is in inches, 14*14*14, this is 2744 cubic inches.
to get cubic feet, you divide by 1728 (12*12*12), this is 1.59 cubic feet
subtracting the thickness of the stock will get you to the range you need to be in. two opposing ends will cap the 4 sides. these two end pieces are full width so it will be 14x14. of the remaing 4, two sides will cap the other two sides. thus these will also be full width but not as tall by 1.5 -> 14x12.5. the last two pieces are smaller by 1.5 on all sides so it is 12.5x12.5. i hope you see that no one side ever exceeds 14".
honestly, you will have to draw this out to be able to visualize this because most overlap at the corners so one is longer and the other is shorter. if you do 45 degree mitered corners on all edges, every side can be 14x14.</TD></TR></TABLE>
The information that I gave you is straight from the manufacture company's tech, said using 3/4" MDF wood I would be using those specific sizes, i'm jus tmaking sure they are correct.
so yes i am agreeing with the dimension of each piece. but i think the quoted net volume is wrong. it should be around 1 cuft and not 0.8. either way, it is within range unless you want the maximum airspace.
if external dimension is 14" on all sides, interior length is 12.5" using 3/4" mdf. so 12.5 cubed is 1.13 cuft. the sub displaces 0.19 cuft. what's left is 0.94 cuft.
if external dimension is 14" on all sides, interior length is 12.5" using 3/4" mdf. so 12.5 cubed is 1.13 cuft. the sub displaces 0.19 cuft. what's left is 0.94 cuft.
Awwww,comeon port that XXX.Mine sound much better in a ported than a sealed.
Heres a bunch of ported box plans if you have trouble.They tell you ever dimension.
http://www.caraudio.com/forum/...37804
Puwdy Pwweessseeeeeee
Heres a bunch of ported box plans if you have trouble.They tell you ever dimension.
http://www.caraudio.com/forum/...37804
Puwdy Pwweessseeeeeee
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Skip01 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Awwww,comeon port that XXX.Mine sound much better in a ported than a sealed.
Heres a bunch of ported box plans if you have trouble.They tell you ever dimension.
http://www.caraudio.com/forum/...37804
Puwdy Pwweessseeeeeee
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Damn those are some mad box plans. Maybe in the feature I'll make a ported box just for the hell of it. But for now I'm going to use a sealed enclosure, much easier to make.
Heres a bunch of ported box plans if you have trouble.They tell you ever dimension.
http://www.caraudio.com/forum/...37804
Puwdy Pwweessseeeeeee
</TD></TR></TABLE>Damn those are some mad box plans. Maybe in the feature I'll make a ported box just for the hell of it. But for now I'm going to use a sealed enclosure, much easier to make.
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