UPDATE PAGE 3: 7-4-06

UPDATE PAGE 4: 8-5-06 VIDEO

You need to read this first.

I go to De Anza community college. I'm in a engines machining class that has been going on for the last ten months. We were allowed to bring in projects to work on. I chose the D16A6.


I blueprinted the whole shortblock. Honed it .50 mm over. replaced all bearings, waterpump, oil pump, polished the crankshaft, replaced pictons (with p29's) and rings. The shortblock also has ARP rod bolts and head studs.

Now for the head. I dont have any pictures of it but the head was ported on a flow bench by myself. Didnt do much just cleaned up the casting flaws and some edges in the bowl. i gained about 10-12 cfm on the intake. and probably too much in the exhaust. Its at about 80-85%. (chime in anyone that can put up some numbers about those two things).

The head also recieved an exospeed Race a6 cam, Stainless steel swirl polished valves (didnt notice a big improvement in cfm with these, maybe a 2-3 cfm increase?) Isky valve springs and a 3 angle valve job.

Yesterday i installed the clutch and flywheel combo from prostreet. and its almost done. now what everyone is waitin for, THE PICTURES



Valve job in progress.



honing in progress. we had a lot of trouble with cylinder wall taper. anyone with insight chime in.



i know how to use that thing haha



i think all pistons and rod assemblies are in on that picture. either that or just one.


prolly just one haha


PAINTING ****


almost done. still no timing set and timing covers. no clutch or flywheel. i think the valve cover is just there for the picture too .



of course i painted some ****. valve cover is a cast iron color? all paint was from kragen. block was painted aluminum , came out really bright, i dont really like it. but it looks clean


OFF TOPIC
haha this is someone else's tool box on my last day of sears. (we had a sort of prank war)


The toilet was downstairs haha he lifted mine in to the air to hide it.

My first attempt at TIG welding. had to fill in some pits on a spare head


AND NOW
the finished engine sitting in the run in stand. 160 compression all across and 0 MILES



also not included in the pics are ACT clutch and flywheel (8lb) skunk2 intake manifold and dc header. will look carb approved from the outside.
Thanks to exospeed for supplying the cam regrind, valve springs, retainers and valves
Thanks to prostreet for supplying the intake manifold(not in yet), exhaust manifold, clutch, flywheel, and other misc items.

What do you guys think


Modified by 91civicEX at 7:44 PM 6/22/2006


Modified by 91civicEX at 12:36 PM 7/4/2006


Modified by 91civicEX at 9:59 PM 8/5/2006

 

Lotta money for not alotta power

 

2 big thumbs up from me
What kind of numbers are you hoping for?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PINKS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Lotta money for not alotta power</TD></TR></TABLE>
If he did his own work then there's not that much $$ tied up.

 

sweet. can you do mine next?

no better engine to learn how to rebuild than a d-series, cause they are a dime a dozen and if you mess it up you arent out a $1200 imported engine.

let us know how it performs. and dont listen to the d-haters.

 

came out to about 2500 for a brand new engine, dont forget that part. the only pieces i resused were the rods and the block. the rods were resized and have new rodbolts. i know i coulda gotten a b16 for 1200 dollars this and that. but i think this is more interesting

 

$2500 total, IMO that's good. You have a brand new motor with 0 miles that you have been thru inside and out.

 

sweet project mad prop's its going to be a beast for a n/a d16a6.

 

good stuff.

 

awesome, my friend is in that class too. building a 3sgte

 

Sounds like an awesome experience.

 

now you know how to do more than 90% of the ppl on honda-tech. congrats. You need to hook me up wit some of those machines when I need to rebuild another engine. Lets go to the track when you finally get it in.

 

what CR did this come out too?
i have been having trouble finding fuel for a very similar engine.

 

i wish i could've done my engine at school. my teacher only let people work on chevy motors...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 88crx-si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i wish i could've done my engine at school. my teacher only let people work on chevy motors...</TD></TR></TABLE> Same problem my friend has.

I don't know what it is about that picture but it just seems really artistic.

 

damn good job! props! I'm having the same thing done right now (I'll be helping with assembly of the block and doing the swap, but I am otherwise just letting the experts handle it). The good thing is what you've learned, and I believe with higher compression, improved flow, and a lightened rotating assembly, you will have a fast little motor there.

Consider all those honda-challenge H4, and SCCA stock & street-touring competitors...they've all gotta have a stock motor to compete with.

 

If you already had 2500 into it, why not spend the extra 300 for rods? Their so tiny.

Anyways, I think what you did was worth 2500. You learned how everything goes together, and it looked like a fun experience. DIY is always the more fun (and cheaper) way.

 

Thats some HOT work you have there

 

Can't wait to see the numbers from that motor. Congradulations on the build. I wish I was in that class.

 

not to be neg but why not make ur own set of pistons? let see u have a machine shop+ material+ from the pics it looks like the shop has a laser scan for the dimension+ CNC only work u would have to do is buy a set of some high comp piston and scan then send them back and get ur money and make a new set. maybe its me but i grow up in a machine shop my father has been a machinist for 20 years and i learned that alot of things have big tolerance because its not oem plus u could have probbly gone bigger on the bore. don't get me wrong it looks like great work, just because i know it takes alot of patients to the work u did. every thing must be perfect. looks good i just wished u would have went bigger and customize ur stuff better. any body can rebuild a motor but for u to say u did the machine work it even better. just though it would be cool to say ya i made the pistons too. hope the u enjoy it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by si90rex &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">not to be neg but why not make ur own set of pistons? let see u have a machine shop+ material+ from the pics it looks like the shop has a laser scan for the dimension+ CNC only work u would have to do is buy a set of some high comp piston and scan then send them back and get ur money and make a new set. maybe its me but i grow up in a machine shop my father has been a machinist for 20 years and i learned that alot of things have big tolerance because its not oem plus u could have probbly gone bigger on the bore. don't get me wrong it looks like great work, just because i know it takes alot of patients to the work u did. every thing must be perfect. looks good i just wished u would have went bigger and customize ur stuff better. any body can rebuild a motor but for u to say u did the machine work it even better. just though it would be cool to say ya i made the pistons too. hope the u enjoy it. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Make your own pistons and tell us how easy it is.

Either way, nice rebuild! I can't wait to see it's numbers. Looks like it was a nice build. I wouldn't of painted the block tho. I would of just cleaned the poop out of it!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 91civicEX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">AND NOW
the finished engine sitting in the run in stand. 160 compression all across and 0 MILES

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Is it just me or does that cylinder psi seem very very low for p29 pistons...I know thats not compression ratio, but my stock cylinder pressure on my a6 is around there, wouldn't you think it should be closer to like 180-190??? just my .02

 

laser scan copy what every thing u put on its table every dimension. it puts it in a 3-d model transfer the file to a MasterCam file so the cnc mill and lather can read the dimensions. set up the machine with the material i would probly take one or 2 test runs get the feed rate where u want it try with a piece of strap. i made a one cylinder motor with a crank and a rod and head sparkplug its compression ratio was like 2psi but the piston was only 1 1/2" in diameter. he could make his own motor if he had the resources and time sorry i made it sound so easy its not hard it just takes alot of time.

 

that would be nice but the shop doesnt have a cnc machine. and i dont think i would be able to make em on the lathe haha. the compression is a little low because the cam is retarded 7 degrees. we figured out the effective compression and it was too high with the cam straight up. to get a 7.5 to 1 effective compression we had to retard the cam 7 degrees. i dont know if it will run better or worse but that wat my teacher recommended. i can always advance it if i want to gain the compression back

 

looks great