I just installed a heater into my civic hatch with gsr swap. I used to idle at around 1k rpm, after I installed the heater it has jumped to 2k and has not gone down. the car is warmed up and still idles at 2k. Anybody have any idea? Please let me know. Thanks.

 

adjust the idle? or is it out of adjustment?

 

I don't think so, I mean it didn't do anything until the heater was installed, I didn't touch anything, then I tried to adjust the throttle cable a little and that didn't do anything.

 

nobody else has any ideas?

 

well i will tell you i bought a civic with a screwed up idle i was told to either clean out the iacv or check the tps sensor...and it was the tps sensor. Try checking those.

 

yeah I guess that could work I am just curious as to why it jumped 1k higher after I installed the heater

 

Anyone else with any other suggestions??

 

may be stupid but pull your gas pedal up

 

Ummm What do you mean by a heater ?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Slamaccord &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ummm What do you mean by a heater ?</TD></TR></TABLE>

A heater? Like you know the unit that heats up the car, opposite of Air conditioning

 

you mean the heater core? the motors itself heats up the car!

did you properly bleed the coolant system after the heater core install?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by anti-lag aka JDMCHOP &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you mean the heater core? the motors itself heats up the car!

did you properly bleed the coolant system after the heater core install?</TD></TR></TABLE>

My bad, the unit that distributes the heat. I did drain the coolant and when installed the tubes and valve I opened the coolant bleeder, starting pooring the coolant, and when it was a steady flow of coolant out of the bleeder I closed the bleeder and filled the coolant up to the top of the radiator. That's the right way to do it right?

 

When I say tubes I mean heater hoses.

 

actualy right way is to, buy that yellow funel thing with the radiator cap adapters and let the car run until no more bubles acure in the funnel, but if you dont have one just remove the radiator cap and wait till theres no more bublin!

 

So I should do it with the car running? I didn't know it made a difference. Will that be the problem with my idling though?

Maybe a possibility of my temp sensor went bad and it's thinking my engine is constantly cold? That's why it's staying at 2k?

 

lol ya you have to do it with the ca running to get all the air out tof the system!

take the cap off and let it run for a bit and coolant if needed!

see if that helps, could be bubles stuck i nthe iac? or somewhere else!

 

alright thanks I'll give it a shot

 

small vaccum leak ?

 

hmmm...maybe, but the TPS sensor plug goes on and off kind of easy, I mean it stays on but it doesn't click, I can slide it off.

 

I have the same prob but mine was reving up and down between800 to 1800. I took off and cleaned the iacv and had to ajust the screw on the back of the iacv and the throttle body. Took some time to get it perfect but it worked for me

 

Well I took the plug going into the TPS sensor off and it didn't change anything, would it? I can imagine it would if the TPS sensor was bad it wouldn't have any effect, if my idle was ok and then I took the plug off, it probably would do the same thing it is doing right now maybe? so maybe my tps sensor is bad.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18chatch83 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I can imagine it would if the TPS sensor was bad it wouldn't have any effect</TD></TR></TABLE>

What I meant was if the tps sensor is bad it wouldn't have any effect, it was good, then taking the plug off would make my idle do what it is doing right now.

 

makes sense...change it and see O.o

 

I'm not sure what the IACV looks like, can someone describe it or post a pic so I can see?

 

BUMP