A new dyno but still work to be done
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From: Fredericksburg, VA, USA
A stock H22 with SMSP header, 2-1/2 cat and 2-1/2 exhaust. Sorry no baseline runs.
AF curve is scary right now, I'm sure the customer will pick up some nice gains once it gets tuned.
AF curve is scary right now, I'm sure the customer will pick up some nice gains once it gets tuned.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sharkcohen »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What is he using for engine management?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Someone else's P28/S200, tuned for their old I/H/E engine.
Engine is getting a few more things then some proper tuning.
edit: It's worth noting that the AF was taken at the tailpipe (post cat). So the engine is running a (little) richer than otherwise indicated.
Modified by A Blue Lude at 7:39 AM 6/22/2006
Someone else's P28/S200, tuned for their old I/H/E engine.
Engine is getting a few more things then some proper tuning.
edit: It's worth noting that the AF was taken at the tailpipe (post cat). So the engine is running a (little) richer than otherwise indicated.
Modified by A Blue Lude at 7:39 AM 6/22/2006
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From: Fredericksburg, VA, USA
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hu »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What is a decent estimate of the hp gain with tuning?</TD></TR></TABLE>
That's hard to say. 5-15whp maybe.
Here's an example of my daily driver. So it's a DIFFERENT engine (D16) and DIFFERENT set up with a 4-1 not a 4-2-1 like the above graph.
My D16 baseline run, AFR was a joke.

After some more fuel being added

There was about a 12% gain in peak whp between Runs 4 (red line) and 7 (blue line) above.
So on my D16 with it's set up it needed alot more fuel and loved it. But A Blue Lude's may not have the same drastic results, since the AFR wasn't nearly as bad as mine was.
That's hard to say. 5-15whp maybe.
Here's an example of my daily driver. So it's a DIFFERENT engine (D16) and DIFFERENT set up with a 4-1 not a 4-2-1 like the above graph.
My D16 baseline run, AFR was a joke.

After some more fuel being added

There was about a 12% gain in peak whp between Runs 4 (red line) and 7 (blue line) above.
So on my D16 with it's set up it needed alot more fuel and loved it. But A Blue Lude's may not have the same drastic results, since the AFR wasn't nearly as bad as mine was.
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nice man, pretty good power there. I'd be happy with 185 peak power. You should gain a good bit of midrange with a good tune.
Man your torque is awesome, doesnt really start dropping off til 6500.
Damnit, July 21st needs to come faster.
Man your torque is awesome, doesnt really start dropping off til 6500.
Damnit, July 21st needs to come faster.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PirateMcFred »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">180 is a good start. When's final tuning?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Depends. I've been really really dumb regarding ordering parts (should have done it all back in May
) So I'm waiting on a valvetrain that's a little late, and Honda should be calling me today regarding how long the manual tensioner bits will take. I *need* the valvetrain and a new HG, but I guess the manual tensioner stuff is optional. Except I'll have to tear into the car later (removing the crank pully & t-belt again) to get it all done properly. (This is assuming I can even get the head installed without the car bursting into flame, rolling over, and exploding. I'm ever so slightly in over my head)
If those things come in soon, I'll tune it after I get my head/cams installed. If not, I guess I'll do an interm tune (yay $$$$) which would be soon. I will of course post up the dyno sheet like any good H-T dyno *****
Depends. I've been really really dumb regarding ordering parts (should have done it all back in May
) So I'm waiting on a valvetrain that's a little late, and Honda should be calling me today regarding how long the manual tensioner bits will take. I *need* the valvetrain and a new HG, but I guess the manual tensioner stuff is optional. Except I'll have to tear into the car later (removing the crank pully & t-belt again) to get it all done properly. (This is assuming I can even get the head installed without the car bursting into flame, rolling over, and exploding. I'm ever so slightly in over my head)If those things come in soon, I'll tune it after I get my head/cams installed. If not, I guess I'll do an interm tune (yay $$$$) which would be soon. I will of course post up the dyno sheet like any good H-T dyno *****
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by A Blue Lude »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> I'll tune it after I get my head/cams installed. ... If not, I guess I'll do an interm tune (yay $$$$) </TD></TR></TABLE>
I think that dyno plot gave you enough info to make some changes to the ROM without doing a final $$$$ tune. For example, you could put in more fuel based on that dyno plot, and it should at least be good enough until you get the cams etc.
I think that dyno plot gave you enough info to make some changes to the ROM without doing a final $$$$ tune. For example, you could put in more fuel based on that dyno plot, and it should at least be good enough until you get the cams etc.
I still need to dyno my car with the SMSP header. I bought Steve Behan's header. I also got a P28 Hondata S100 ECU from him. Unfortunately, I have a 2.25" cat-back.
With just intake and exhaust, I put down 179whp with my JDM H22. With the header installed, I raced my friend, who I raced with just intake and exhaust, and I was able to slowly walk away from him in 3rd. Before, I was dead even with him from 3rd-4th.
I want to see actual results though. Soon, hopefully.
With just intake and exhaust, I put down 179whp with my JDM H22. With the header installed, I raced my friend, who I raced with just intake and exhaust, and I was able to slowly walk away from him in 3rd. Before, I was dead even with him from 3rd-4th.I want to see actual results though. Soon, hopefully.
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I got around 177 (untuned) after I installed the header with a couple of bent valves and scarred cylinder walls, all stock internals also with 156k miles on it. Definitely felt a big increase in low-mid range power.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by flyrod »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I think that dyno plot gave you enough info to make some changes to the ROM without doing a final $$$$ tune. For example, you could put in more fuel based on that dyno plot, and it should at least be good enough until you get the cams etc.</TD></TR></TABLE>
So bringing my ECU + dynosheet to a Hondata tuner could get me a safer map? He can pull the old map off the chip and add fuel from 4500 on up?
(Sorry, I'm a bit of a efi noob)
edit: Honda just called, all my OEM tensioner parts are in. Now I'm just waiting on my stupid springs/retainers.
Directed at those knowledgeable about these things: Is it a whole lot harder to do the springs/retainers when the head is installed on the car? I'll have a source for compressed air.
Modified by A Blue Lude at 1:13 PM 6/23/2006
So bringing my ECU + dynosheet to a Hondata tuner could get me a safer map? He can pull the old map off the chip and add fuel from 4500 on up?
(Sorry, I'm a bit of a efi noob)
edit: Honda just called, all my OEM tensioner parts are in. Now I'm just waiting on my stupid springs/retainers.
Directed at those knowledgeable about these things: Is it a whole lot harder to do the springs/retainers when the head is installed on the car? I'll have a source for compressed air.
Modified by A Blue Lude at 1:13 PM 6/23/2006
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