I called my local shop today to see about getting my cams degreed and they said they couldn't do it with the motor in the car. Is there a way to do this? If not, does anybody have the same setup and can help me out?
setup:
block
ls b18b decked .005 w/ jdm p30 pistons
ls rods w/ arp rod bolts
acl bearings
golden eagle ls/vtec head gasket (same as OEM 3 layer)
head
b16 head (99-00 si) milled .005
bc3+ cams
rm vs and ret
skunk2 cam gears


Modified by hondaluva at 10:06 PM 6/14/2006

 

bump for some input..... calling all engine builders!!!!!!

 

Have you considered simply hitting a dyno and tuning them there. I was amazed at what I picked up when I started dialing in my BC3+'s. I picked up huged gains (5-20whp) through the entire powerband on a mild B17. . . Detail here:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1657421

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BryanPendleton &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Have you considered simply hitting a dyno and tuning them there. I was amazed at what I picked up when I started dialing in my BC3+'s. I picked up huged gains (5-20whp) through the entire powerband on a mild B17. . . Detail here:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1657421 </TD></TR></TABLE>
I really don't wanna just try stuff wit my cams and grenade the motor. I would rather know exactly how much clearance I have before I mess with anything.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hondaluva &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I really don't wanna just try stuff wit my cams and grenade the motor. I would rather know exactly how much clearance I have before I mess with anything.</TD></TR></TABLE>

IF thats the case then you definately do NOT want to use anyone elses specs. That is an accident waiting to happen. You don't know the stack up on all their parts. They may have a taller block and/or head, etc, etc, etc. The only way to prevent the above it to clay the motor while running the worst possible cam gear timing. You can then degree the cams in per manufacturer specs or slap the car on a dyno and start playing with cam timing.

 

You can degree cams with the motor in the car or even clay the motor, but talk about a pain in the butt. You may have fitment problems with the degree wheel trying to put in on the motor while installed. The depth guages can be easily mounted on the head with the motor in the car.

 

Thanx for the input man. I found a shop that can do it with the motor in finally. He said it could be up to $500 depending on how long it takes with the added difficulty of having the motor in car. That's understandable and all but there's gotta be a way to do this with the motor in the car that I can do this and save some money here. I gotta find a degree wheel. Does like advanced autoparts or autozone rent them out.

 

I just make my own degree wheels, any size I want. I print it out and use adhesive to apply it to some heavy weight paper. Viola. You can download free CAD programs online. Just an idea.

 

Thanks. Not really sure I understand what your sayin but where can I find the program? Can u post a pic of one you've used before?

 

http://www.newenglandhondarebuilders.com/

There is a nice cam degree fixture you can buy and do it for yourself for much cheaper

 

thats pretty ridiculous about that clown trying to charge you $500 to tell you "yeah, its ok." i machine and assemble bottom ends for that!

to the left of your exhaust manifold is a plug with a 10mm bolt, put air into that and plug the hole under the valvecover, when you put the air it will be easy to find. this locks your rockers and it works better if the engine has just been run for a moment to get oil circulated.. helps seal the passages to retain more air.

proform 9" degree wheels are the ones i sell and theyre pretty nice, should clear your mount but it wont be easy to see from the top. you can set up your pointer on the bottom and watch the degree wheel from the wheelwell with the tire off. figuring out how to mount the wheel is on you.

degreeing the cams is pretty easy with a piece of steel fastened to the head and a magnetic base with an indicator and some coathanger inserted for extension rods (take the tip off the indicator, the coathanger will fit in nicely, then tape it on and trim to size)

checking piston to valve clearance in the car is more involved, but should be done with a soft dummy spring and indicator. i explained it in some other post a few weeks ago.