Tuning Questiong... Timing Related.
I got a friend that wants me to do a half *** street tune for him because he is cheap and blah blah blah. Ive told him that he needs it professionally done but he wants me to do a street tune..
But any ways motor is a
B16 stock block
RS CTR 81.5 slugs
ARP rod bolts
ITR head
Omni valvetrain with flatfaced valves
BC4 cams
Head Milled .040"
OEM headgasket
Now i can do all the fuel tuning and all But my concern is with his compression. what is a safe amount of timing to run on this? How will i know if i have too little timing or too much timing? i know some of the obvious reasons like backfire ect.
Any Help is appreciated. Once again. Im only doing this cause he is being stupid and i really dont trust anyone else to do it.
But any ways motor is a
B16 stock block
RS CTR 81.5 slugs
ARP rod bolts
ITR head
Omni valvetrain with flatfaced valves
BC4 cams
Head Milled .040"
OEM headgasket
Now i can do all the fuel tuning and all But my concern is with his compression. what is a safe amount of timing to run on this? How will i know if i have too little timing or too much timing? i know some of the obvious reasons like backfire ect.
Any Help is appreciated. Once again. Im only doing this cause he is being stupid and i really dont trust anyone else to do it.
Use a factory p30 timing map to start with.
Make sure you sync your ignition timing
- What is detonation:
Detonation occurs in the combustion process when the advancing flame front, which is pressurizing and heating the unburned mixture ahead of it, does so at such a rate that unburned fuel in that zone achieves its auto-ignition temperature before the arrival of the actual flame front. The result is that the unburned mixture combusts "spontaneously" and over the entire zone where the auto-ignition temperature has been achieved. The apparent flame speed in this zone is many orders of magnitude faster than that in conventional combustion initiated by a normal flame front, with the result that the local rise of pressure and temperature is significantly sharp. This produces the characteristic "knocking" or "pinking" sound, and the local mechanical devastation that this can produce on piston crown or cylinder head can be considerable. Actually, "knocking" is the correct terminology for what is a really a detonation behavior over a small portion of the combustion charge. A true detonation process would be one occurring over the entire compressed charge. However, because detonation in this strictly defined sense does not take place in the spark-ignition engine, the words "knocking" and "detonation" are used interchangeably in the literature, without loss of meaning, to describe the effects just discussed.
Make sure you sync your ignition timing
- What is detonation:
Detonation occurs in the combustion process when the advancing flame front, which is pressurizing and heating the unburned mixture ahead of it, does so at such a rate that unburned fuel in that zone achieves its auto-ignition temperature before the arrival of the actual flame front. The result is that the unburned mixture combusts "spontaneously" and over the entire zone where the auto-ignition temperature has been achieved. The apparent flame speed in this zone is many orders of magnitude faster than that in conventional combustion initiated by a normal flame front, with the result that the local rise of pressure and temperature is significantly sharp. This produces the characteristic "knocking" or "pinking" sound, and the local mechanical devastation that this can produce on piston crown or cylinder head can be considerable. Actually, "knocking" is the correct terminology for what is a really a detonation behavior over a small portion of the combustion charge. A true detonation process would be one occurring over the entire compressed charge. However, because detonation in this strictly defined sense does not take place in the spark-ignition engine, the words "knocking" and "detonation" are used interchangeably in the literature, without loss of meaning, to describe the effects just discussed.
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Joined: Mar 2004
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From: SoCal I.E 909, CA, where we innovate not immitate
Wow mtber great write up!!! I would agree on the base p30 map but you will probably need to take 2-3 deg out between 3k-4k and total timing under wide open throttle after 5k should end up around 25 deg. Just to be safe
That was a good write up thanks for that.
I planned to start with the 16* Base timing.. we are using the HOndata S300 on this car. just curious on if the ignition timing on the maps are too aggressive for this setup.
How would i know if i have too much timing or too little timing on this?
I planned to start with the 16* Base timing.. we are using the HOndata S300 on this car. just curious on if the ignition timing on the maps are too aggressive for this setup.
How would i know if i have too much timing or too little timing on this?
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDMlyfestyle »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That was a good write up thanks for that.
I planned to start with the 16* Base timing.. we are using the HOndata S300 on this car. just curious on if the ignition timing on the maps are too aggressive for this setup.
How would i know if i have too much timing or too little timing on this?</TD></TR></TABLE>
A dyno is the only real way to know. Just keep checkin the plugs for detonation
I planned to start with the 16* Base timing.. we are using the HOndata S300 on this car. just curious on if the ignition timing on the maps are too aggressive for this setup.
How would i know if i have too much timing or too little timing on this?</TD></TR></TABLE>
A dyno is the only real way to know. Just keep checkin the plugs for detonation
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NAPIER »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
A dyno is the only real way to know. Just keep checkin the plugs for detonation</TD></TR></TABLE>
I got 14 sets of plugs in my toolbox. i wipe out all the parts stores when they get the NGK Vpower BKR7E11.
A dyno is the only real way to know. Just keep checkin the plugs for detonation</TD></TR></TABLE>
I got 14 sets of plugs in my toolbox. i wipe out all the parts stores when they get the NGK Vpower BKR7E11.
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