Right when I turn my car on, the music sounds great. But after about 15 minutes, I can feel/hear the bass go down a few noise levels. Not to mention a remote control stops shaking after about 15 minutes below my deck. I've read the voltage at 13.8 when my car turns on, and I wait til the remote stops shaking in my car and I go out and do another reading and its around 13.35-13.4. I asked my stereo shop about the big 3 and they are charging 75 labor fee... and they said it won't help, they suggested a cap instead. they also said the voltage dip isnt a problem as long as its still over 13, but I can still feel the difference. Anyone know what I can do or what the problem is? My system is about 1200 watts RMS. 1998 Passat V6. And I'm doing all the voltage readings at the battery.

 

Your amp is probably overheating and reducing power to keep from burning up. Check the temp of your amp.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by thejacka &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Right when I turn my car on, the music sounds great. But after about 15 minutes, I can feel/hear the bass go down a few noise levels. Not to mention a remote control stops shaking after about 15 minutes below my deck. I've read the voltage at 13.8 when my car turns on, and I wait til the remote stops shaking in my car and I go out and do another reading and its around 13.35-13.4. I asked my stereo shop about the big 3 and they are charging 75 labor fee... and they said it won't help, they suggested a cap instead. they also said the voltage dip isnt a problem as long as its still over 13, but I can still feel the difference. Anyone know what I can do or what the problem is? My system is about 1200 watts RMS. 1998 Passat V6. And I'm doing all the voltage readings at the battery.</TD></TR></TABLE>

That voltage isnt a problem.

What kinda amp?
Do you get any dimming?
I would do the Big 3 anyways and $75 is really cheap,assuming their goin with 0 gauge.
Like stated above,peraps just amp running to hard and overheating.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Not to mention a remote control stops shaking after about 15 minutes below my deck</TD></TR></TABLE>

What the hell does that mean?

 

it means.... theres a diminish in output from the subwoofers, so the voltage drop seems to be affecting that.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by thejacka &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">it means.... theres a diminish in output from the subwoofers, so the voltage drop seems to be affecting that.</TD></TR></TABLE>

The amount of voltage drop you have listed can not cause the problem you listed. Look elsewhere for your problem.

 

I agree with all the above, not enough of a drop for you to hear the diff. in your system, it has to be something else, the first thing I would do is what nsxxtreme suggests... <TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nsxxtreme &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Your amp is probably overheating and reducing power to keep from burning up. Check the temp of your amp.</TD></TR></TABLE> Easy to check, [put your hand on the amp's heat sinks when you first turn it on, then again in 15 min.] also I would check voltage at the amp and then again in 15 min.
A better description of what you have, makes/models of equipment, how sub(s) is/are wired, [final "impedance"] what kind of power and ground wiring, [gauge] what kind of fuse and holder on power cable(s), [by batt.] where is amp grounded and how? Will help find the problem, if you can tell the diff. in output and the fact that the remote stops shaking, tells me you definitely have a problem, but the voltage drop is not it. 94

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by thejacka &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I asked my stereo shop about the big 3 .......and they said it won't help.</TD></TR></TABLE>They are correct

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by thejacka &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">they suggested a cap instead.</TD></TR></TABLE>Although a cap would benifit you this is the wrong use of a cap. This will not fix your problem. Ask for them to pay for the cap if it doesn't fix your problem.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nsxxtreme &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">They are correct
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Whats your reasoning behind that?
Just wonderin not being a ***.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Skip01 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Whats your reasoning behind that?
Just wonderin not being a ***. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Means its not going to fix his "specific problem"

 

so doing a big 3 will not help my current electrical system? should i bother? anywho, i might've figured out the problem, but im not sure. My diamond d3 400.4 and Xenon x600.1 were grounded on opposite sides of the trunk (Done by the shop). I brought them to a common ground point and screwed it down real well, and I'd have to say that it sounds pretty good right now. Also they (stupid stereo shop...) used a 4 gauge input with two 8 gauge inputs. when the output terminals i needed were one 8 gauge and one 4 gauge. so basically they shoved the 4 into the 8 gauge output, which means a good chunk of the wire did not fit into the terminal. i will fix this once i get my knukonceptz block, cause i cant find any in my area.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by thejacka &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so doing a big 3 will not help my current electrical system? should i bother? .</TD></TR></TABLE>
If it were me i would do it anyways,although ur voltage doesnt drop far at all.
I still would do it,pretty cheap upgrade and not that hard.