Civic LSD question/recommendation
i autocross in FSP with my 97 Civic DX. i ran half the season with just suspension modifications and no engine mods. i'm going to start competing 2007 in mostly national events. i've done the following engine mods: intake, bored throttle body, civic ex intake manifold (port/polished), dc EX header, carsound cat relocated to under the car, exhaust, act heavy duty clutch and pressure plate, 7 lb flywheel.
now i have problems with traction coming out of corners, sometimes the inner tire spins, or it just pushes. i drove a few cars with lsd, the only part i didn't like is that when you enter a corner and lift, the car reacts differently from an open diff, it tends to push.. i had to overcome this by left foot braking and applying some throttle during the entry..
the main question.. is there an lsd that'll keep the same characteristics as what i have now for corner entry? i only want the lsd benefits of getting the power down out of a corner.
now i have problems with traction coming out of corners, sometimes the inner tire spins, or it just pushes. i drove a few cars with lsd, the only part i didn't like is that when you enter a corner and lift, the car reacts differently from an open diff, it tends to push.. i had to overcome this by left foot braking and applying some throttle during the entry..
the main question.. is there an lsd that'll keep the same characteristics as what i have now for corner entry? i only want the lsd benefits of getting the power down out of a corner.
Or learning how to deal with the inherent drawbacks of a piece of equipment that will allow you to go faster overall.
Honestly, with a low HP car like that you are going to want a Quaife over some uber-aggressive Kaaz 1 way LSD.
Honestly, with a low HP car like that you are going to want a Quaife over some uber-aggressive Kaaz 1 way LSD.
Realistically, a one way is better suited to our platforms...(Honda). But, driving styles differ. I've learned that footwork is key in control of my car.... driver/car makes a big difference.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RagingAngel »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">OBX!!!
well somebody had to say it....
This is coming from somebody who has Quaifes in DOHC and SOHC configuration....
</TD></TR></TABLE>
weak sauce
lol hahaha
well somebody had to say it....
This is coming from somebody who has Quaifes in DOHC and SOHC configuration....
</TD></TR></TABLE>weak sauce
lol hahaha
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by syclone »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">some people are telling me that the obx and quaife are the same unit.. just rebadged.. any truth to this?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Not entirely true! They are the same design, but not near the same quality during manufacturing!
Not entirely true! They are the same design, but not near the same quality during manufacturing!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by syclone »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">some people are telling me that the obx and quaife are the same unit.. just rebadged.. any truth to this?</TD></TR></TABLE>
No. Completely different manufacturers, quality and quality control.
Having said that, however, the OBX is a Torsen axle design just like the Quaife. There are lots of people who have used OBX in racing applications for years with no problem at all. But there are also those nagging rumours of failures.
I think OBX is worth what you'll pay for them, but please be entirely aware of the fact that there are reasons why the Quaife costs a lot more.
They are definitely not the same thing.
No. Completely different manufacturers, quality and quality control.
Having said that, however, the OBX is a Torsen axle design just like the Quaife. There are lots of people who have used OBX in racing applications for years with no problem at all. But there are also those nagging rumours of failures.
I think OBX is worth what you'll pay for them, but please be entirely aware of the fact that there are reasons why the Quaife costs a lot more.
They are definitely not the same thing.
I'm running an OBX torsen type diff in my EP Civic, and it seems to work great. The big problem with torsen type diffs is that if you completely unload the inside wheel, the diff opens up and does nothing to help you until the wheel comes back down to the ground. I have seen a little problem from this in high speed slaloms on grippy surfaces where my car can pull a front wheel on turn-in. The torsen diff kinda limits the amount of throttle I can hold in those situations. Most corners it works great. The big advantage of the torsen type diff is that it doesn't do wierd things like try to jerk the steering wheel out of your hands. It also doesn't slow the car as much on corner entry, which is important in a low powered car. As with everything racing, it's all about the tradeoffs. If you have power to burn, and don't mind fighting the steering wheel a little, I think the a clutch type diffs are faster. If you prefer a little better drivability or don't have much power, the torsen type is probably a better choice.
In my case, it was mostly a price decision. I got my OBX diff for $350, and at that price it's hard to beat.
-Chris
In my case, it was mostly a price decision. I got my OBX diff for $350, and at that price it's hard to beat.
-Chris
i recomend buying a d-series jdm tranny that has a factory lsd. it may take some searching to find but they are cheap when you factor in 400 minimum for an aftermarket plus labor. i'm pretty sure they go for about 150-300 buck
i just don't see the point in spending 750+ dollars on a quaife and using it in a 400 dollar d-series engine tranny configuration.
i just don't see the point in spending 750+ dollars on a quaife and using it in a 400 dollar d-series engine tranny configuration.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by George Knighton »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">There are lots of people who have used OBX in racing applications for years with no problem at all. But there are also those nagging rumours of failures.</TD></TR></TABLE>
On a related question, are there many people using the OEM ITR LSD in racing as well? I've seen a few posts in the past about it. I'm about to buy an ITR piece, because it's cheaper than the Quaife, but it's for a track car only. A GSR that won't see over 190 WHP in its life.
On a related question, are there many people using the OEM ITR LSD in racing as well? I've seen a few posts in the past about it. I'm about to buy an ITR piece, because it's cheaper than the Quaife, but it's for a track car only. A GSR that won't see over 190 WHP in its life.
the main limitation on the stock ITR LSDs is power level.they do break with a lot of power(maybe 250WHPish)and high traction on hard launches(mainly drag racing).
the ITR diff should be reliable in most NA roadrace setups.the stock JDM B16 one piece LSD is more fragile than OEM ITR.i'd imagine the OEM D series LSDs are even more fragile,although i don't have any evidence of that(i just say it because i'd assume they'd design it to a lower power thresh hold because of the lower D series engine outputs).
but,i've driven my car back to back with the ITR LSD,then with the OBX LSD.the difference is very noticeable.where i can get the ITR diff to sometimes spin up the inside tire,the OBX(and we'll say Quaife too since they're comparable function-wise)hasn't done this yet.also,the on power drive at corner exit seems more noticeable with the OBX-meaning that the LSD effect of trying to help the car turn on power by giving power to the outside tire-helping to "push" the car around-seems more evident.
i'll leave the OBX vs Quaife argument alone-there's plenty of threads on that.my argument is that is the Quaife is out of the question financially,i'd spend the little bit of extra money for the OBX over the stock LSD-especially considering that OEM LSD options for the D tranny are limited.
Chris
the ITR diff should be reliable in most NA roadrace setups.the stock JDM B16 one piece LSD is more fragile than OEM ITR.i'd imagine the OEM D series LSDs are even more fragile,although i don't have any evidence of that(i just say it because i'd assume they'd design it to a lower power thresh hold because of the lower D series engine outputs).
but,i've driven my car back to back with the ITR LSD,then with the OBX LSD.the difference is very noticeable.where i can get the ITR diff to sometimes spin up the inside tire,the OBX(and we'll say Quaife too since they're comparable function-wise)hasn't done this yet.also,the on power drive at corner exit seems more noticeable with the OBX-meaning that the LSD effect of trying to help the car turn on power by giving power to the outside tire-helping to "push" the car around-seems more evident.
i'll leave the OBX vs Quaife argument alone-there's plenty of threads on that.my argument is that is the Quaife is out of the question financially,i'd spend the little bit of extra money for the OBX over the stock LSD-especially considering that OEM LSD options for the D tranny are limited.
Chris
I would have to agree that learning how to compensate for the limitations of your vehicle is the best way to fly. You may find that your approach to a turn needs to change. One of the driving schools I attended this year spoke of proper entry technique given the nature of the car you are driving. Rear engine RWD 911's use a different line than a quattro Audi.
In my hatchback, I found that my chassis is very well balanced. If I made an approach assuming late apex, I could tail out, push or be neutral depending on my throttle input.
I do have a quaife and I love it! I virtually have no understeer issues, as long as I take the proper line, and I can get on the gas fairly early with that tecnique without any issues.
Hope this helps,
Alex S.
In my hatchback, I found that my chassis is very well balanced. If I made an approach assuming late apex, I could tail out, push or be neutral depending on my throttle input.
I do have a quaife and I love it! I virtually have no understeer issues, as long as I take the proper line, and I can get on the gas fairly early with that tecnique without any issues.
Hope this helps,
Alex S.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cibola »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Anyone have any idea where i can get a JDM LSD tranny? I have searched for this item over and over. Is it a S20 tranny with an LSD? </TD></TR></TABLE>
what tranny are you currently running?most of the time,the OEM LSD GSR trannies go for around $700-$900 from what i've seen.
you can easily add the OEM ITR LSD to a US GSR tranny,and you can get the diff for around $150.
chris
what tranny are you currently running?most of the time,the OEM LSD GSR trannies go for around $700-$900 from what i've seen.
you can easily add the OEM ITR LSD to a US GSR tranny,and you can get the diff for around $150.
chris
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