So I finally got the engine in and attempted a start up tonight using a basic Crome basemap (stock ITR scaled for 310cc injectors) and ran into some very odd problems.

Scenario 1. Turn key to the on position, accessories light up and fuel pump primes but when I go to crank the car everything immediately dies as if I've blown a fuse. Turning the key back to the on position yields nothing. No door open chime, not ANYTHING. However, pulling the negative battery cable and resetting the ECU will often reset the problem giving me back my accessories until I attempt to start the car again.

Scenario 2. This time the car doesn't die when I attempt to crank it. The engine will turn over but it isn't making any spark. After a few cranking attempts it will usually revert back to the first scenario.

Scenario 3. Key in on position again with accessories working. Attempt to turn on headlights and the cars electrical system immediately dies like in scenario 1.


I've got the three main grounds connected securely and yes the valve cover ground is in the right spot. Someone mentioned to me it could be something with the electronic load detection circuit (ELQ it it's proper term I think)? Any ideas?

 

Possibly main relay. I've had to replace mine when I encountered similar problems as scenaro #1. Seems to be a somewhat common problem with Hondas.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TPB &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Possibly main relay. I've had to replace mine when I encountered similar problems as scenaro #1. Seems to be a somewhat common problem with Hondas.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I don't think it would be the main relay as the fuel pupmp is priming. When the main relay goes out, the fuel pump fails to prime. Plus the issues with the electrical issues being reset with the resetting of the ECU would lead me to consider other electrical gremlins beside the main relay.

 

What mods/electronic gadgets do you have? Anything wired into the ignition?

 

Do you have an alarm with ignition kill? If so you might have upset the brain and it is cutting power to the ignition whenever the car is turned over.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92TypeR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Do you have an alarm with ignition kill? If so you might have upset the brain and it is cutting power to the ignition whenever the car is turned over.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I agree with this. Also are you sure the computer is ok?

 

The car has no alarm. I have some gauges to install but have not spliced into any of the wiring yet.

 

i think by elq you are referring to the eld (electronic load detection)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by walker111 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I agree with this. Also are you sure the computer is ok?</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

he could run his hatchback with it

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Origin &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">he could run his hatchback with it</TD></TR></TABLE>

Correct. I've just used the ECU recently to test out Crome on my hatchback so it should be fine.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Eva01 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I don't think it would be the main relay as the fuel pupmp is priming. When the main relay goes out, the fuel pump fails to prime. Plus the issues with the electrical issues being reset with the resetting of the ECU would lead me to consider other electrical gremlins beside the main relay. </TD></TR></TABLE>

It still might be - I had the same thing happen where the fuel pump was priming but the engine wouldn't turn. Broke out the multimeter and traced it back to the main relay. Unfortunately with an electrical issue like this you're best bet is to break out the manual and begin eliminating possibilities with the help of a multimeter. Good luck.

 

i've had the same thing happen a few times when chips didnt burn right for me. Do you have the stock ecu to test?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 743power &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i've had the same thing happen a few times when chips didnt burn right for me. Do you have the stock ecu to test?</TD></TR></TABLE>

No but I'm using an Ostrich RTP chip emulator with Crome and this was the first time using it with the Type-R. Maybe it didn't send the data correctly. That's definitely something to look into.

 

burn a stock .bin and test the ecu

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92TypeR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">burn a stock .bin and test the ecu</TD></TR></TABLE>

That might be a good idea. I'm running 310cc injectors so it probably wouldn't crank but at least I know it wouldn't have anything to do with me altering the maps.

 

stock ECU *should* be able to handle 310s, might idle kinda crappy but it should run. if there is any way to hook up your stock ECU I would try that.

 

I have ran stock ECU with 310's with no problems. I have also had a some wierd electrical issues with a car which turned out to be the battery going dead.