I have a 300/4 and a 250/1 so with a 250/1 I want a 10w3v3. I don't like a ridiculous amount of bass but I like my stereo to sound like surround sound. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated

 

Sounds to me like you already made up your mind.

Base your ohm rating on your amp capacities. I'm guessing that your 250/1 is a mono amp.

Is that a bridged power rating (250 RMS x 1 @1ohm)? Or is that 250 RMS x 1 @ 4ohm?

 

250/1 Class D Monoblock Subwoofer Amplifier Specifications:

250/1
Rated Power: 250 W RMS @ 1.5 ohm-4 ohm (11V-14.5V)
THD at Rated Power: <0.05% @ 4 ohm
S/N Ratio (All Channels): >95dB below rated power (A weighted, 20 Hz - 20 kHz noise bandwidth)
Frequency Response: 5 Hz - 500 Hz (+0, -1dB)
Damping Factor: >500 @ 4 ohm / 50 Hz
Input Range: Switchable from 200mV-2V RMS to 800mV-8V RMS
Dimensions (L x W x H): 10.25 in. x 9.25 in. x 2.36 in.
260 mm x 235 mm x 60 mm

 

I geuss I don't understand the differences between the 2 ohm 4 ohm and 8 ohm

 

Do you already have this amp and you need to match a sub to it, or you just looking right now?

250 W RMS @ 1.5-4ohm? I've never seen a figure like that. Either it's 250 W RMS @ 4ohm, or at 1.5 ohm. The lower you go, the more power it's going to pull. So if it's 250 @ 4ohm, it's going to be more powerful at 1.5 ohm. That stat is a little confusing. You may want to look at the jl audio site to get something more accurate before you make any decisions.

 

best thing to do is get a same name brand sub and amp for the company compares there watts to their own individual products you can match one up, if you going to just throw one sub just use a 1 channel amp that puts out the same peak as your sub but do not turn it all the way up set it about half

 

the 250/1 is puts out the same power with any impedance (1-8 ohms) and voltage (10.3-13.8) because of the R.I.P.S. power supply that is in the amp. The best bet if you are only going to run one sub would be the 10w3v32 it is a 2 ohm sub and would be a perfect match because you would be running 2 ohms mono if you wanted 2 subs you would want a pair of the 10w3v34 4 ohm subs so you can run the subs parallel and run a 2 ohm load.

Ralphie

 

just get 4 ohm speaker,,some amps cant even handle 2 ohm in the 1st place..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dopey88 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the 250/1 is puts out the same power with any impedance (1-8 ohms) and voltage (10.3-13.8) because of the R.I.P.S. power supply that is in the amp. The best bet if you are only going to run one sub would be the 10w3v32 it is a 2 ohm sub and would be a perfect match because you would be running 2 ohms mono if you wanted 2 subs you would want a pair of the 10w3v34 4 ohm subs so you can run the subs parallel and run a 2 ohm load.

Ralphie </TD></TR></TABLE>

Wow, that is cool.

Is JL Audio the only company to use this technology? I've never heard of anything like it.

 

Yeah I think they actually have a patent on rips. Check out there website. I love JL Audio. I have all JL audio in my jeep and its sounds like nothing else. It is kind of expensive though

 

JL in my own opinion(i own a car audio store) is over rated but i would get a duel 4 ohm voice coil sub i think its the 10w4

 

JL is in no way overrated, just overpriced.......great components, and the W7 kicks ***.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b16crexster &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">JL in my own opinion(i own a car audio store) is over rated but i would get a duel 4 ohm voice coil sub i think its the 10w4</TD></TR></TABLE>

a 10W4 has not been available for YEARS

If you have a 250/1, either the 10W3v3-2 or 10W3v3-4 will work just fine. If it was me, I'd look down the road a bit further. Most amplifiers are happier with a 4 ohm load then anything else, so I'd get the -4. However, if you plan on adding a second sub, then I'd go for the -2. The reason being: a pair of -2's can be wired to a 4 ohm mono load.

Just as an FYI, there are other amplifiers out there that make the same power rating at multiple impedances - the new Zapco DC series come to mind. I believe the Phoenix Gold Xenons do as well - but don't quote me on it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by philkehn &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">best thing to do is get a same name brand sub and amp for the company compares there watts to their own individual products you can match one up, if you going to just throw one sub just use a 1 channel amp that puts out the same peak as your sub but do not turn it all the way up set it about half</TD></TR></TABLE>

That is a silly suggestion. If you are going with quality products, the power ratings are fairly accurate and most high end amps include a birth sheet so you know what the amp is outputting.

You NEVER want to look at a peak power rating - those are complete garbage.

Also, by "turn it up", you must mean the gain control. Remember, the gain is NOT a volume control. It's a method that allows the same amplifier to make maximum power with different headunits. You use the gain to match the output of your amplifier to the strength of your headuints pre-outs.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AJWatUC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have a 300/4 and a 250/1 so with a 250/1 I want a 10w3v3. I don't like a ridiculous amount of bass but I like my stereo to sound like surround sound. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated</TD></TR></TABLE> OK, a few things first. You do have some very nice equipment, what is the make and model of the HU and the speakers you have?

Although a 300/4 and a 250/1 will do the job, and you say you "don't like ridiculous amounts of bass" but it takes more "power" to make low-pass then it does to make high-pass, you have 300W RMS for high-pass and only 250W RMS for low-pass, IMO with 300W of high-pass you should have at least 500W RMS for the low pass.

As for the sub, here we run into one of the quirky things about JL Audio, [and don't get me wrong, I like JL Audio products, and we are an authorized retail dealer] they do not make a 250W continuous power handling 10" sub, not even a 200W one, they are 300W like the 10W3v2 and the 10W3v3 or 150W like the 10W1v2.

The sub I would use with that amp is the 13W1v2-4 a 200W continuous SVC 4 ohm sub, it is the sub, [in their current lineup] that most closely matches the amp.

What I would recommend is get a JL Audio 500/1 and a 10W7, [500W SVC 3 ohm] or better yet step down one and get the 10W6v2-D4, [400W DVC 4 ohm]

Using the 13W1v2-4 with the 250/1 or the 10W6v2-D4 and the 500/1 will give you 50 and 100 watts respectively of "head room" on the amps, and it's always better to be a little overpowered then underpowered, IMO.

With the setup you have now, the 300W of high-pass and 250W of low-pass power and if you use the 10W3v2 or the 10W3v3, both 300W subs, my guess would be that before too long the 250/1 would get driven into clipping and too much of that will just burn up the VC(s) of the 300W subs. 94

 

thanks for all your feedback. By the way I have the 5.25 Vr components and the 6.5 Vr components. I was thinking of a single 8w7