B16A doesn't rev past 7800 rpm
When first bought my car a year ago, the tack needle would go past 8000 rpm no problem but every once in a while it would stumble and not go past 7600-7800 rpm, over a couple month it changed so that it it would never rev past 7800. Duuring the times the car made it to 8000 rpm, it would do so with lots of power while sounding like a b16 should. Nowadays when i get past 5000 it sounds like 1 liter sport bike and almost feels like there's some sort of resistabnce as RPMs build. The things i should mention are that the oil in the car was pretty much black when i changed it after buying it and it leaked a bit. After putting in synthetic, changinc cam seals and cleaning and retotorquing the valvecover it stoped leaking, but the oil turned dark brown right away. I've also put in some new NGK copper cold plugs which made the engine run rev a lot smoother.
Don't know if any of these things are relative, but i would like to know why the engine doesn't rev past 7800 RPM. Maxed out the tack too many times?
Don't know if any of these things are relative, but i would like to know why the engine doesn't rev past 7800 RPM. Maxed out the tack too many times?
Check for codes....
And make sure all your plugs are plugged in the right spot.
You ecu is running, "Safe mode" it won't rev past 7200-7500, and vtec won't engage.
Make sure you oil pressure signal has a ground.
and can't stress enough the fact of plugging everything in right.
And make sure all your plugs are plugged in the right spot.
You ecu is running, "Safe mode" it won't rev past 7200-7500, and vtec won't engage.
Make sure you oil pressure signal has a ground.
and can't stress enough the fact of plugging everything in right.
stock tachs suck also. they can be a few hundred rpms off. sometimes my b16 cuts out at about 7800rpms according to the tach, but i always thought it was the tach.
What's the cheapest way to check for codes? I'm assuming u have to buy a special piece of electronics. I remember checking for codes on my buddy's camaro with a 20 dollar box with an LED on it, is there something like that for the b-series?
Stock Honda tachs are actually good from what I hear. I know my stock CRX tach is dead on even way up past the stock 6500 redline mark. You can check codes by looking at the flashing ECU light. long blink is tens place, short is ones place, with a pause between codes
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you are all crazy. i am running a b16a in an hf, with the oem Hf dash. My needle hits the dash no prob.
And yes you can plug you harness in incorrectly to the motor. When i first did i musttook one plug and it threw a code, no vtec and the same problems you are describing. trust me...check plugs and find codes
To find a code:
Pull up carpet on passenger side. See the blinking light. One long flash=10 quick=1.
two long flashes followed by two short....then a pause.....that's a code 22 get it? l8z
And yes you can plug you harness in incorrectly to the motor. When i first did i musttook one plug and it threw a code, no vtec and the same problems you are describing. trust me...check plugs and find codes
To find a code:
Pull up carpet on passenger side. See the blinking light. One long flash=10 quick=1.
two long flashes followed by two short....then a pause.....that's a code 22 get it? l8z
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mar778c »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You have a auto ECU. You can convert this by moving the r68 resistor to the r67 position.</TD></TR></TABLE>
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