I started to assembly my H22. I'm using ACL bearings and ARP main studs. ARP says 70 lb ft torque on studs which is quite a lot (factory spec is 56 lb ft).
When I use plastigauge on the no 1 journal it appears waaay to tight on a bearing. When I tightened them to 56 it was OK (but it had been before I got to know the proper torque- thanks Shakes again). The bearing on rod journals are OK on the middle of the specification.
The crank was polished/balanced and caps were refreshed and aligned, so I assume the stock bearings colors don't apply any more.
What's more I'm afraid so much torque can distort the aligning

So what is my choice?

1. Use thinner bearings + ARP recommended torque? What if it is still too tight?
2. Use ACL+ ARP on the factory torque? Risky? (I talked to Earl and he suggested to use the factory torque, ARP WITHOUT ARP lube but oil)
3. Use honda main bolts (lots of waiting and money thrown into the trash on ARP - and I want the bulletproof bottom end)
4. ...

Any ideas?

P.S> I had no time lately and I didn't measure the rest of the journals. I'll try to do this tonight. Maybe it's just an issue of this one journal? We'll see.

 

ttt

 

bump for help for this guy. i would like to know also.

 

This is why I use honda bearings.. ACL = Line bore

Edit- sorry, I didn't read, next time, give the machine shop all bearings/specs and make them make sure the clearance is correct...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Honda318dx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">This is why I use honda bearings.. ACL = Line bore

Edit- sorry, I didn't read, next time, give the machine shop all bearings/specs and make them make sure the clearance is correct...</TD></TR></TABLE>

Eh, it's too easy. You know it's a challenge to me. I do this first time so I gotta learn.

My mechanic says- ARP lube, studs, ACL and factory torque. And I lean to this decision.

 

acl is sort of a one size fit all , i don't particularly like that idea. if earl recommend sfactory torque then take his advice. earl knows his ****. Honestly it is really important to get those clearences right. IT seems that at the arp recommended troque it is over stressing the material, and at that point it could even make the journal sligtly out of round.

just plastigauge all of them with all the studs torques to factory specs and go from there too. you also have to give honda engineers some credit as to where they came up with these torque specs.

another options is call acl or arp and ask them why such a high torque for the caps. tell them when u use factory specs the bearings spec okay but when using the trq arp suggests its too tight..

 

the wya i see it ARP knows a lot better about what torque their hardware should be at.

factory torque specs are for factory bolts....not aftermarket performance studs. ARP studs are supposed to be a lot stronger than stock as far as i know.

 

use honda bearings on everything? i used them on the NA car i had but not to sure about TUrbo?

 

If you are going to run the ARP's then I would recommend running the torque that they told you to run. The last thing you want is for the main caps to become loose.

Post up the bearing part numbers you are running and also the clearances. Going back to OEM you can get within the exact spec that you want but you'll be using different colors most likely (assuming an align hone was done or no prior damage is/was done to the main journals).

Sometimes during the sleeving process it can lead to problems with distortion of the main journals. That is why having all of this inspected is so important prior to installation. You could always have the block align honed to work with the bearings you have though.

 

wow , someone who actually builds a motor with the same parts as i do

acl's are great

heres how i do it, arp is wrong, they are always too high for what im comfortable with. i use 50w oil on the rod bolts,mains,head studs and torque to 63ft/lbs for the mains

i NEVER EVER, match bearing to journal, unless one has been clearanced for a previous bearing failure

unless its an inline 6&lt; too much crank movement/flux. supras dont like

PEOPLE these are performance motors and they dont need to meet really high standards. b/c chances are u will rebuild the motor again before 100,000miles

a motor built with a std. clearance all the way across every journal will be worry free and painless, (as long as u really can depend on and trust your machine shop) and it should last AT LEAST 100,000 miles

the only reason to match each journal is to build a motor capable of surpassing 200,000 miles, or if your building an in line 6 with a half-weighted crank

 

so what would be the best reliable way? honda factory specs?

 

If you havent done so already post this in the allmotor section, there are some pretty sharp dudes trolling around in that forum