Hey guys, I know there are tons of threads on painting and I have searched the majority of them for what I'm looking for. I am hoping this thread will shed some light on beginner painters with the help of some OG's


Assumeing everyone knows they need a compressor, I'd like to start off with these questions first. I may be going in the totaly wrong direction with this and if I am could someone just point me in the direction of paint forums?

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1) Do you need certain inline filters?
3) What size tips for what process?
4) Finishing grit when getting ready to prime and/or paint?
5) Where to get paint?
6) Are there directions on the paint can for mixing?
7) How do you properly clean a tip?
8) How do you properly clean out the gun?
9) Do you sand in between coats?
10) Steps (grit) when wet sanding the final coat?

Sorry for all the questions but if you one of you wouldn't mind answereing these to the best of your knowlege, it would be better than a bunch of flaming with no answeres.

I just want to get painting and I'm sure others would too

 

Wheres #2 haha, ITs REAAALLY hard to write the process. Just post what ever you need to know and ill help you out
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LSEGHATCH &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
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1) Do you need certain inline filters?
3) What size tips for what process?
4) Finishing grit when getting ready to prime and/or paint?
5) Where to get paint?
6) Are there directions on the paint can for mixing?
7) How do you properly clean a tip?
8) How do you properly clean out the gun?
9) Do you sand in between coats?
10) Steps (grit) when wet sanding the final coat?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
1-Go to harbor freight and get a filter that connects between the compressor and hose. Its cheap and will work for home use.
3- 1.4 tip will spray most applications and you will be good. But not always it all depends on the viscosity of what your spraying.
4- i take it your talking about wetsanding primer?? If so 600 wet is good.
or are you talking about sanding the car down before spraying paint. If so go to the local paint supplier and buy 3M scuff agent. And with a 3M grey scuff pad go over the entire car. Or if your talking about sanding bodywork and then spraying primer use 220.
5- just the local paint supplier, If your not sure just go to a body shop and ask what paint suppliers are around.
6- Usually, if not the paint supplier will tell you
7- Unscrew it clean it with thinner
8- Take it all apart and clean it with thinner
9- you dont have to but if you get dirt or other imperfections your do. Just so you know high quality paint jobs are color sanded.
10- 1500-2000, buff

 

11) Reputable sites to buy guns?
12) What is color sanding?

 

painting-tech.com


jk

 

Depends how much money your looking to spend on the gun anywhere from 20 bucks to 500 bucks. My dad works for a tool distributor so i can get you stuff for pretty cheap.

color sanding is just sanding in between coats. just to make everything perfectly smooth
obviously takes a hell of a lot longer

 

I don't mind how long it takes but how long does an average coat take to fully dry? I presume you wetsand between coats, then do you wipe everything down dry and start the next layer?

What do you think a good gun would be, I will use it more than once since I'm going to take some classes but I want something that's not going to be out dated.

 

Whenever im painting im always in a booth that has a bake so the paint cures in 10-15 min. But in your situation it all depends on weather condition. I will tell you this if the humidity is over 70% dont even bother painting. AFter your done sanding just wipe it clean

 

How much are you looking to spend? I can hook you up on some good prices
devilbiss is a good gun at a good price

 

$200? You wet sand always right? I know the technique I just don't know if you do it all the time. What are ideal conditions?

 

humidity is over 70%, damn I'm in FL it is always over that.

Good info I am trying to paint my own car.

 

Ill ask my dad what he can get for that price range. Yes you SHOULD wetsand verus dry sanding. Ideal conditions would be 70-80 degress, and the least humditity possible.
And as far as temperature goes you can always mix the paint differently accordingly to temperature. If its cold than you would put more reducer, hot less

 

My compressor is rated at 15 CFM, if you would need that info.

 

diy painting is a bitch

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Built to Spill &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">diy painting is a bitch</TD></TR></TABLE>

Feel a lot better when you DIY and eases the burden on your wallet and could possibly even bring in some money.

I want to learn

 

if you know what youre doing..it takes a long time to become skilled enough to actually paint a car that comes out looking perfect.

Id rather spend my money with someone that knows what their doing..

sidenote: for trying things on your own

 

I plan on doing peices that don't matter, like right now I want to spary my hood black because I know I can't match the red on my car but atleast it'll look better than a fadded flat black.

 

Go to http://www.autobody101.com. Go to the forums and read EVERYTHING. 99% of your questions have been asked and answered 10 times. Not trying to be rude just telling you becuase I was in your postion a few months ago and that site really helped me out just by reading.
I just finished my first paintjob ever and I must say I learned a lot. Would I do it again? Not any time soon. My second job (if) will definatley be a lot easier being that I had to buy a lot of tools and things that I did not have before and learned how to use them properly. The car I painted was not my primary car and was more or less a "if it comes out like crap oh well" thing. It came out pretty good, actually but It was a lot of work.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mike9571 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ill ask my dad what he can get for that price range. Yes you SHOULD wetsand verus dry sanding. </TD></TR></TABLE>

You can sand wet or dry for anything you're doing. From what I read and my experience one of the main reasons to wetsand is to minimize the ammount of dangerous dust that becomes airborne for you to inhale. Dry sanding will often lead to a lot of sneezing and irritated throat unless you use a resperator/mask

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LSEGHATCH &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I don't mind how long it takes but how long does an average coat take to fully dry? I presume you wetsand between coats, then do you wipe everything down dry and start the next layer?

</TD></TR></TABLE>

You do not sand in between coats of paint. You sand the old paint if you are going to apply filler, you sand the filler, you sand the primer but you do not sand between coats of paint. Things like bondo and primers are mechanically bonded by the scratches created from the sandpaper. Coats of paint and clear are chemically bonded one to the next. The only reason you would sand if you were doing a base/clear paintjob would be if you had a run or some other problem in the base to which you would have to spray more base over it to fix it. Usually time between coats depends on temperature etc but 15-20 minutes between coats is average. The time between coats you are basically waiting for the reducer to "flash" off and if you dont allow the correct ammount of time you may end up with "solvent pop" which is basically solvents from the prior coat that still havent flashed off trying to escape through the new layer of paint (or clear) which creates little craters in the paint.


Sorry so long but basically read up on auto painting forums and decide if this is something you want to tackle. It can be overwhelming.

 

RENT A DOWNDRAFT BOOTH AND PREP MAKES THE PAINTJOB.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by The AntiRice &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

You do not sand in between coats of paint. You sand the old paint if you are going to apply filler, you sand the filler, you sand the primer but you do not sand between coats of paint. Things like bondo and primers are mechanically bonded by the scratches created from the sandpaper. Coats of paint and clear are chemically bonded one to the next. The only reason you would sand if you were doing a base/clear paintjob would be if you had a run or some other problem in the base to which you would have to spray more base over it to fix it. Usually time between coats depends on temperature etc but 15-20 minutes between coats is average. The time between coats you are basically waiting for the reducer to "flash" off and if you dont allow the correct ammount of time you may end up with "solvent pop" which is basically solvents from the prior coat that still havent flashed off trying to escape through the new layer of paint (or clear) which creates little craters in the paint.


Sorry so long but basically read up on auto painting forums and decide if this is something you want to tackle. It can be overwhelming.</TD></TR></TABLE>

You dont have to color sand but i was just stating that high end paint jobs that want to be PERFECTLY smooth are color sanded. Believe me i work in a custom shop.

 

So......which gun for $200

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LSEGHATCH &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So......which gun for $200</TD></TR></TABLE>

Devilbiss, Sharpe (makes guns for snap-on, snap-on puts there name on it)