Ostrich2.0

Im planning on doing a paint job and body work myself on my EG. I have painted my old truck before but i did it w/o any knowledge of proper technique.

A few questions:

As far as sanding down, do i have to treat the plastic differently than the metal? I read that you should only wet sand plastic down, and i was planning on using an orbital sander for the metal.

Im planning on just using rattle can primer, probably about 3 coats, because im not ordering my gun until i am ready to paint. How long can i leave the primer on before i absolutely need to paint? I have a few days this month to sand her down and prime and then a few days in early april where i can paint.... is this to long?

What grit of sandpaper to use between primer and basecoat? 400 then 600?

How long can i wait til after my clear coat dries to wet sand? does it need to be done immediately or can i wait a few days? just in case of orange peel

Also, what kind of rubbing compound do i need to make the clear coat shine?

Thanks!

Hawkze_2.3

Absolutely NO rattle can primer. Get some good 2-part from the paint store please!

gorillafart

iTrader: (1)

wahs then clay bar your car so its real smooth. then rattle can your car... sand the rattle can with 3000 grit.. then paint it with base, add a layer of primer again be4 you add the second coat of base, then sand that and put another layer of base be4 your put a layer of sealer on it, then wet sand that. and clear it.

VinhTEC

Listen to Hawkze he is a pro, he gave me advice and I am about to get going on my project. If your going to do work do it right or pay a little more for work man its not worth your time to play with it.

Ostrich2.0

ok, i will do this. But how long can i prime it before i paint it. unfortunately i wont have a stretch of days to do this is all at once.

Thanks

Jockone

Use good primer from your paint supplier rattle can primer will remain porous so it would be a waste of time effort and money to do it that way.

Yes treat the plastic different from the metal no Da sander.You may also want to use an adhesion promoter on your plastic.

Why not get all your supplies together before you start?
I personally use 1000 grit after the primer and before base-coat.

Rubbing compound I use system one,I like it and it is easy.

prelude1897

1. I treat plastic and metal almost the same depending on what I'm doing.

2. Rattle can primer sucks and I don't suggest using it. Just get some 2k primer which will cover much better

3. You can leave primer on as long as you'd like. Especially if you put a couple good coats on.

4. I usually wet sand with 600-800 grit paper. 400 will leave too many scratchs that'll pop up in the paint

5. Depending on the weather outside will determine when you can wet sand the clear coat. If you're in TX and painting during the summer, you can start painting in the morning, and leave the car outside and be good by night time to wet sand and buff. Normally, I'd wait 2-3 days to let it cure before wet sanding, and you're gonna have orange peal no matter what. Depending on the gun and air pressure, will determine how bad it'll be. Even cars from the factory have orange peal. Also, you'll need to wet sand with 2000-3000 grit paper if you have very light orange peal, but if it's heavy, I'd start off with 1500 and work your way up

6. Everyone has a different preference on what cutting compound and glaze to use to bring that shine out. I personally have a friend of mine do this part, cause I already do enough sanding before painting.

CivicxTree754

I had my rattle can primer on my lexus for about 2 maybe 3 weeks. Through rain and all. I painted using a gun but it didnt have an air/water seperator. Might want to invest in that. All from personal experience, not my opinoin. GL

Edit: Honestly if I could go back I think i would have not used the rattle can primer, BUT i think i did a good enough job that its lasting right now under my rustoleum paint through these northeastern winter months.

Hawkze_2.3

The main problem with using the rattle can junk is that is never cross-links or cures, all that happens is that the solvents evaporate and you end up with a porous, weak film. It does not seal out water or whatever else may be under/over the layer of primer so you have a strong potential for problems later down the road. Even the tiniest bit of moisture in there can start to breed rust.

It is better than bare metal and surface rust though

dmfl666

prep dosent matter if your gonna be cheap and use rattle can primer

Rukusmasta2

I used rattle can primer many times on small areas. Local auto body supply store has there own line. You better have a nice smooth surface already because its not goint to fill anything in. Just to cover the bare metal and filler areas for better paint coverage..

dchoate2

1. You can use scotch bright or a scuff pad on plastic bumper or u can buy ways called plastic prep...as far as primer negative on the rattle can..it will just turn into a giant headache...when u go to paint the bumper I'd seal it with a good sealer...such as color build...
2. As far as sanding I'd start out with 320 then work ur way up to 800...u do not have to wet sand ur primer that's more of a painters personal choice...if ur going to b spraying a metallic color I'd put clear base on it to cover any deep scratches u can't see...akzo Nobel sikkens line is a very nice paint line to work with and its forgiving if u can actually paint...and u can wait as long as u want to sand ur primer before u paint...it just the longer u wait the harder it is to sand...and u will have roughly 72 hrs to paint after u sand before the pores close up and u have to sand it again.
3. as far as wet sanding clear...I've wet sanded and buffed cars just hours after it was baked...I do not recommend this if u have no previous experience buffing...the longer u wait to wet and and buff a car after it has been shot the harder it will b on u...24 hrs is usually the perfect time frame...and 3m makes bad *** compounds and polish that will work wonders!

Ostrich2.0

Thanks for the info guys.

Im doing a Dark Charcoal Acryllic Enamel with Clear Coat.
Im buying 2k sprayable primer as well.

Now as far as the spray guns go...i wanted to stay on a budget since this is my first time. I'd rather not spend a boat load for a gun especially if i only do this once.

My thoughts were to use a 1.5mm gun for primer, base, and clear. I was reading thought that primer needs around a 1.8mm tip?

Any suggestions as far as the gun goes will be appreciated.

I will post up pics soon of the problem areas on the body i need to attend to.