CEL is on. Help me fix this please....
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Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Sep 2004
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From: u looked at my location LOL.
Engine light is on and codes read that the problems are
1)TPS
I cant find this one the shop manual. has anyone dealt with this? Any pics showing where its at?
2)Crankshaft Position Sensor
Is this also known as the Crank Angle Sensor? Ifr so my manual doesnt tell me **** on this. Just tells me what it does. I found the CRAN Angle Sensor hoping its also a Crankshaft Position Sensor and seen that plug has been poorly soldered as if plug was cut before. I hope this is the problem since poor soldering causes higher resistance thus decreasing voltage and invertly affecting sensor reading.
3)IAC
which im assuming is the Idle Air Control Valve. Also damn manual( (chilton manual) doesnt help. Where is this? Im assuming manifold. I heard you can clean these out with carb cleaner. Damn manual doesnt say anything of removal so I can get torque specs.
4)Ignition Output Signal
This also came out in reading for CEL. Which im also assuming is making my tach needle jump all over the place. Is this coming out of the igniter or what??
Also one more thing..Compression test gave me this result:
cyl1) 200psi cyl2)195psi cyl3)190psi cyl4)200psi
is this okay?
Thanks for those who will answer with helpful questions in advance.\par
BTW this is on a 1989 CRX SI with stock D16A6
1)TPS
I cant find this one the shop manual. has anyone dealt with this? Any pics showing where its at?
2)Crankshaft Position Sensor
Is this also known as the Crank Angle Sensor? Ifr so my manual doesnt tell me **** on this. Just tells me what it does. I found the CRAN Angle Sensor hoping its also a Crankshaft Position Sensor and seen that plug has been poorly soldered as if plug was cut before. I hope this is the problem since poor soldering causes higher resistance thus decreasing voltage and invertly affecting sensor reading.
3)IAC
which im assuming is the Idle Air Control Valve. Also damn manual( (chilton manual) doesnt help. Where is this? Im assuming manifold. I heard you can clean these out with carb cleaner. Damn manual doesnt say anything of removal so I can get torque specs.
4)Ignition Output Signal
This also came out in reading for CEL. Which im also assuming is making my tach needle jump all over the place. Is this coming out of the igniter or what??
Also one more thing..Compression test gave me this result:
cyl1) 200psi cyl2)195psi cyl3)190psi cyl4)200psi
is this okay?
Thanks for those who will answer with helpful questions in advance.\par
BTW this is on a 1989 CRX SI with stock D16A6
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by junior40er »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Engine light is on and codes read that the problems are
1)TPS
I cant find this one the shop manual. has anyone dealt with this? Any pics showing where its at?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
It's on the back of the throttle body, 3 pin plug.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
2)Crankshaft Position Sensor
Is this also known as the Crank Angle Sensor? Ifr so my manual doesnt tell me **** on this. Just tells me what it does. I found the CRAN Angle Sensor hoping its also a Crankshaft Position Sensor and seen that plug has been poorly soldered as if plug was cut before. I hope this is the problem since poor soldering causes higher resistance thus decreasing voltage and invertly affecting sensor reading.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
The crank position, cylinder position, and TDC sensors are all in the dizzy. There is no other crank angle sensor on the actual crank, like some cars have. If someone has messed around with the wiring, best bet is to go back and make sure you know it's right (or try another dizzy).
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
3)IAC
which im assuming is the Idle Air Control Valve. Also damn manual( (chilton manual) doesnt help. Where is this? Im assuming manifold. I heard you can clean these out with carb cleaner. Damn manual doesnt say anything of removal so I can get torque specs.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
It's the white plug on the driver's side of the intake manifold, sort of on the fuel injector part of the harness.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
4)Ignition Output Signal
This also came out in reading for CEL. Which im also assuming is making my tach needle jump all over the place. Is this coming out of the igniter or what??
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Fix your other problems first, but it sounds like you have a bad dizzy or bad dizzy wiring.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Also one more thing..Compression test gave me this result:
cyl1) 200psi cyl2)195psi cyl3)190psi cyl4)200psi
is this okay?
Thanks for those who will answer with helpful questions in advance.\par
BTW this is on a 1989 CRX SI with stock D16A6</TD></TR></TABLE>
Good compression numbers, though you might have some carbon buildup. My A6 ran 180-185 consistently after I rebuilt it to OEM spec.
1)TPS
I cant find this one the shop manual. has anyone dealt with this? Any pics showing where its at?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
It's on the back of the throttle body, 3 pin plug.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
2)Crankshaft Position Sensor
Is this also known as the Crank Angle Sensor? Ifr so my manual doesnt tell me **** on this. Just tells me what it does. I found the CRAN Angle Sensor hoping its also a Crankshaft Position Sensor and seen that plug has been poorly soldered as if plug was cut before. I hope this is the problem since poor soldering causes higher resistance thus decreasing voltage and invertly affecting sensor reading.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
The crank position, cylinder position, and TDC sensors are all in the dizzy. There is no other crank angle sensor on the actual crank, like some cars have. If someone has messed around with the wiring, best bet is to go back and make sure you know it's right (or try another dizzy).
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
3)IAC
which im assuming is the Idle Air Control Valve. Also damn manual( (chilton manual) doesnt help. Where is this? Im assuming manifold. I heard you can clean these out with carb cleaner. Damn manual doesnt say anything of removal so I can get torque specs.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
It's the white plug on the driver's side of the intake manifold, sort of on the fuel injector part of the harness.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
4)Ignition Output Signal
This also came out in reading for CEL. Which im also assuming is making my tach needle jump all over the place. Is this coming out of the igniter or what??
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Fix your other problems first, but it sounds like you have a bad dizzy or bad dizzy wiring.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Also one more thing..Compression test gave me this result:
cyl1) 200psi cyl2)195psi cyl3)190psi cyl4)200psi
is this okay?
Thanks for those who will answer with helpful questions in advance.\par
BTW this is on a 1989 CRX SI with stock D16A6</TD></TR></TABLE>
Good compression numbers, though you might have some carbon buildup. My A6 ran 180-185 consistently after I rebuilt it to OEM spec.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by court »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">is this due to a dpfi to mpfi swap</TD></TR></TABLE>
Si comes stock MPFI, read the post.
Si comes stock MPFI, read the post.
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 2,736
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From: u looked at my location LOL.
I think I see the IAC. But some people are telling me its on intake manifold facing the firewall. or is that the Electroinc Air control valve?yeah I also thought crank angle sensor and ignition output was in distributor so would it be easier and cost effective to just replace the distributor itself?
wow thats alot of codes.
1. reset the ecu to clear the codes and make sure they come back, to be certain this isnt a one time error.
2. check all the grounds around the engine and ecu. look for loose wires around the ecu plugs. so many codes might indicate a bad ground.
1. reset the ecu to clear the codes and make sure they come back, to be certain this isnt a one time error.
2. check all the grounds around the engine and ecu. look for loose wires around the ecu plugs. so many codes might indicate a bad ground.
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 2,736
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From: u looked at my location LOL.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crx_88_si »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">wow thats alot of codes.
1. reset the ecu to clear the codes and make sure they come back, to be certain this isnt a one time error.
2. check all the grounds around the engine and ecu. look for loose wires around the ecu plugs. so many codes might indicate a bad ground.</TD></TR></TABLE>
well I gotta put a ground fromvalve cover to ground since its missing it. Also plug for crank angle sensor has been cut and desoldered so im oping bad resistance is affecting it. I will try and resolder properly and clear out codes. I reset ECU by unplugging batteries for a period of time right?
1. reset the ecu to clear the codes and make sure they come back, to be certain this isnt a one time error.
2. check all the grounds around the engine and ecu. look for loose wires around the ecu plugs. so many codes might indicate a bad ground.</TD></TR></TABLE>
well I gotta put a ground fromvalve cover to ground since its missing it. Also plug for crank angle sensor has been cut and desoldered so im oping bad resistance is affecting it. I will try and resolder properly and clear out codes. I reset ECU by unplugging batteries for a period of time right?
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you can reset the ecu by pulling the 10a fuse that is labelled as the HAZARD fuse located in the underhood fuse box for 10-20 seconds and replacing it.
that way you can keep your radio stations programmed
that way you can keep your radio stations programmed
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by junior40er »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I think I see the IAC. But some people are telling me its on intake manifold facing the firewall. or is that the Electroinc Air control valve?yeah I also thought crank angle sensor and ignition output was in distributor so would it be easier and cost effective to just replace the distributor itself?</TD></TR></TABLE>
On the newer manifolds, like the Z6, it does face the firewall, but on the A6 manifold it's on the driver's side.
On the newer manifolds, like the Z6, it does face the firewall, but on the A6 manifold it's on the driver's side.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by downest »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
On the newer manifolds, like the Z6, it does face the firewall, but on the A6 manifold it's on the driver's side.</TD></TR></TABLE>
lol what?
Electronic Air Control Valve = EACV = Idle AIr Control Valve = IACV (they are all the same thing, different names).
they are all on the back of the Intake Manifold, facing the fire wall near the throttle body, 2 hoses (coolant), and 2 bolts hold it on.

On the newer manifolds, like the Z6, it does face the firewall, but on the A6 manifold it's on the driver's side.</TD></TR></TABLE>
lol what?
Electronic Air Control Valve = EACV = Idle AIr Control Valve = IACV (they are all the same thing, different names).
they are all on the back of the Intake Manifold, facing the fire wall near the throttle body, 2 hoses (coolant), and 2 bolts hold it on.

Thread Starter
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Joined: Sep 2004
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From: u looked at my location LOL.
I thnk I know what sensor ur talkin bout but I dont think its it. I think Idle control valve is on manifold firewall side. I'll double check later.
Thread Starter
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From: u looked at my location LOL.
the igniter unit and the Crank/Cyl Angle sensor is inside the distributor. Im thinking it might be better to just replace the unit as a whole. Also screw heads for the TPS sensor are broken off. Any suggestions??
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 2,736
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From: u looked at my location LOL.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crx_88_si »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
lol what?
Electronic Air Control Valve = EACV = Idle AIr Control Valve = IACV (they are all the same thing, different names).
they are all on the back of the Intake Manifold, facing the fire wall near the throttle body, 2 hoses (coolant), and 2 bolts hold it on.

</TD></TR></TABLE>yeah thanks. I was thinking that.
lol what?
Electronic Air Control Valve = EACV = Idle AIr Control Valve = IACV (they are all the same thing, different names).
they are all on the back of the Intake Manifold, facing the fire wall near the throttle body, 2 hoses (coolant), and 2 bolts hold it on.

</TD></TR></TABLE>yeah thanks. I was thinking that.
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