This is in a d16a6 motor with vitara pistons and a fully built head. The head was decked .040" so the timing on the cam gear is advanced 3*

We hit the car with a timing gun at the HMT meet and it was dead on, but Ive since changed map sensors, tunes etc

Heres a pic of the current map Im running, I onyl know how to play with fuel and ive gotten it down pretty much perfect for all regions.

I just have no knowledge on what to look for in timing. I definetely cant hear pinging with my open downpipe and dump, nor would I know what I was hearing

Heres my map - click to enlarge I think

 

Use the general rules of boost timing retard...
Throw the car on a dyno and try to find the best timing values for your setup :-)
Make sure your ignition timing is fully synced to your distributor which I assume you already did.

Good Luck

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mtber &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Use the general rules of boost timing retard...
Throw the car on a dyno and try to find the best timing values for your setup :-)
Make sure your ignition timing is fully synced to your distributor which I assume you already did.

Good Luck</TD></TR></TABLE>

bingo, need a dyno

 

No dynos within a few hours of me, not an option

 

Those values are REALLY wacked. Never should you have a 7* difference from one cell to another whether it be right or left or up or down. Find the total timing at 0PSI for your "stock" car then add .8-9 retard per lb of boost. Do this for under 8-9PSI. If you run more boost, which I think you do, then do 1 degree per lb after 8-9 PSI.

Also use FRESH plugs and use this as a guide on how to tell ignition from the street. It's pretty accurate just remember to shut off the car while in high rpms and WOT to ensure no idle combustions take place to the spark plug.

 

So .6 / lb is to aggressive?

 

for a basemap...absolutley

 

seriously, im surprised the car even feels good with the timing being all over the place like that!?

thats horrible,

 

^^^ Right on clean that map up, then see were you stand. adjusting timing can be done on the street, but if you dont know how, and what, you will destroy a motor very fast..

 

agreed. Tuning on the street is quite accurate and I have never had to make any changes going from the street to a dyno afterwards because I was dead on. I did this with 3 different cars all different engines. I'd say I could have added maybe another degree to 2 of the cars, but that was only 8whp at most. If you know what you are doing then it's easy, it just takes A LOT longer . Get a new map up and then post it again here. We'll be able to tell you if that's a good starting point very easily

 

wow that map is crazy. ive never messed with non vtak but a map is a map and timing should not jump all over the place like that. a retarted monkey could do a better base map, ok there i said it, you know everyone was thinking it!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by abnaasefmb &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">wow that map is crazy. ive never messed with non vtak but a map is a map and timing should not jump all over the place like that. a retarted monkey could do a better base map, ok there i said it, you know everyone was thinking it!</TD></TR></TABLE>

lol. I bet Tony tuned it. j/k.

 

ok here is what a base map for a b16 looks like

 

^^ Great example. Notice how the numbers flow well (hence the reason for color). This is a good basemap. Very conservative, but not out of control. .