If I wanna run with 17 inch wheels on a type r, what offset do i need, will a 31 mm offset fit?

 

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Besides no one can answer your question because offset is dependant on the wheel width, so you havent even supplied enough information to answer your vague question.

 

17x8.5 5x114.3 +31mm, they are off a STI

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by aram1000 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">17x8.5 5x114.3 +31mm, they are off a STI</TD></TR></TABLE>

no they will not fit

 

to be exact ur going to have problems with the rear in that setup without having it camberd out w/ rolled fenders

 

what offset would i need then?

 

its gonne be pretty damn hard to fit an 8.5" in there anyways...... the offset would need to be perfect

not having personal experience though i cant tell you what you need as the widest i have seen is like a 7.5

 

Not going to fit for sure. Too wide with too low of an offset.

 

I had 17X8 @ 38 offset I believe... and this is what you get.

http://i11.photobucket.com/alb...8.jpg

http://i11.photobucket.com/alb...0.jpg

Good luck with 8.5 wide.

 

stay as close to stock +50 as possible, which means a 7" wide wheel. Don't try to get a "flush" look with a lower offset just for looks.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AamirCWITR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">stay as close to stock +50 as possible, which means a 7" wide wheel. Don't try to get a "flush" look with a lower offset just for looks. </TD></TR></TABLE>

This is just plain wrong. Stock wheels are 15"x6"x50mm so if you go to 7" you want to reduce the offset by 13mm to keep the tire in the same place. 15x7x38mm is probably what you would want.

But to go to a larger diameter wheel on an ITR is not a good idea for performance. Remember, the Type R is torque challenged. That means it has a hard time spinning the wheels. The last thing you want to do is add more rotational mass or increase rotational inertia. Larger diameter wheels do 3 bad things for the ITR:

1) They weigh more
2) They will probably cause the overall tire diameter to increase thus causing lower effective final drive ratio thus reducing acceleration
3) The weight is further from the wheel center thus increasing rotational inertia.

Go with a 15x7 wheel and a 225 tire and you won't have fitment issues.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dsav4shawn &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I had 17X8 @ 38 offset I believe... and this is what you get.</TD></TR></TABLE>
What kind of suspension and spring rates? For what were you using the car?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by George Knighton &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">For what were you using the car? </TD></TR></TABLE>

I can answer this question for him:

Off-roading.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 00R101 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
15x7x38mm is probably what you would want.</TD></TR></TABLE>
This is what I use on the track, but we should probably caution that +38 in the rear is kind of pushing it on the outside.

If you are using OEM springs you might have to roll a fender.

Also be aware that in 225-section the total width of the tyre will vary tremendously according to the manufacturer's specifications. I can use Toyo RA1 225-45-15 on my ITR w/not issues (16K springs in the rear), but I cannot use Hoosier R6 225-45-15. There's a huge real world size difference between the two tyres.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">But to go to a larger diameter wheel on an ITR is not a good idea for performance.</TD></TR></TABLE>
That's the OG standard line, and it's still generally correct. However, if you are going from the OEM wheels to 17" expensive forged wheels, you might still come out ahead because of a reduction in total overall weight.

Even if you've altered the rotational mass overall, you might still be better off. It depends on what wheels you're buying.

The tyre choices in 17" are also rapidly exceeding the choices available in 15" and 16".

There are mitigating factors that might cause a driver to want to move to 17" wheels, although I admit you're generally correct to want to keep the 15" wheels if you can, and I admit that my own track wheels are 15".

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by George Knighton &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
What kind of suspension and spring rates?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Koni adjustable dampers with adjustable perch and Comptech progressive-rate springs
Skunk2 rear upper tower bar
Benen rear lower tower bar
Benen front crossmember bar

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by George Knighton &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
For what were you using the car?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Work truck... LMAO.

Mainly it just sits in the driveway. I've spent the last 6-9 months learning how to fix it, so that I may in turn be able to track it at some point. BTW... I was at the body shop today... all new fresh paint. SOOO hawt. PY &gt; ***. I bought the car with everything done to it. I'm digging through it all and figuring out why it's there.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Reid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I can answer this question for him:

Off-roading. </TD></TR></TABLE> I'm looking at 33" swamper tires for her right now. Looks like I'll have to return the car back to stock ride height to mount those.

 

I wanted to get some Rota 15"s but to this day I haven't found any aftermarket wheel that has the factory offset. So I said forget it & stuck to the factory rollers. Question is,.....Is there any wheels out there that do have the factory offset?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HYREV2NR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I wanted to get some Rota 15"s but to this day I haven't found any aftermarket wheel that has the factory offset. So I said forget it & stuck to the factory rollers. Question is,.....Is there any wheels out there that do have the factory offset?</TD></TR></TABLE>

when you order volks, works, weds, enkei's, etc new you can get them in custom offsets +50 included.

oh, and the JDM ITR wheel is 16x7 +50, so for the person saying you had to drop to a +38 on a 7" wheel, ur just wrong.

i'm currently running 17x7.5 +38 and have zero issues up front, but the rear was rubbing severely with 215/40-17's, on 205/45-17's it didn't rub nearly as bad, but again, that all depends on the tire. fyi, i'm running 3.5* of negative camber in the rear w/ zero toe. the edge of the rim is flush with the outer edge of the fender.

 

Good info!
I'll remember that about the Volks cause I've always wanted a set of TE37's in 15's! Kinda pricey but hey, My R is worth it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 00R101 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

This is just plain wrong. Stock wheels are 15"x6"x50mm so if you go to 7" you want to reduce the offset by 13mm to keep the tire in the same place. 15x7x38mm is probably what you would want.


Go with a 15x7 wheel and a 225 tire and you won't have fitment issues.</TD></TR></TABLE>

The JDM spec for the ITR is 16x7 +50mm. I am not sure why you are suggesting a +38 offset which in turns effects the scrub radius.

Getting offsets that low for aftermarket brake applications makes sense, but for most other uses, 16x7 +50 is ideal.

Secondly, many tires in 225 on a 7" wide wheel can give a sloppier feel than a 205 or 215.

If you want 17's, get a 17x7 in a offset of +45 or greater with a 215 or 205 width tire.

Do take note that a 17" wheel will affect your "butt dyno" in terms of acceleration and braking, and possibly even steering feel.


Modified by AamirCWITR at 4:02 PM 5/30/2006

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AamirCWITR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The JDM spec for the ITR is 16x7 +50mm. I am not sure why you are suggesting a +38 offset which in turns effects the scrub radius.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Can you really tell a difference with the increase in scrub radius when going from a +50mm to a +38mm?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Reid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Can you really tell a difference with the increase in scrub radius when going from a +50mm to a +38mm?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I gave it a try on my old Mazdaspeed Protege once. I went from OEM +55 to +40 and increased the wheel width by 1/2".

I noticed the steering wheel didn't center itself as readily and felt a bit more vague on center. I could actually notice this while making turns around city streets. I felt like the steering responded to road irregularities more also but it was not major. Then again, +15 is a pretty big jump in offset and increasing the wheel width adds to the effect.

Victor is lending me his +50 JDM ITR wheels in June and I am going to see if I notice any difference on my ITR with +45 of the same width.


I am still trying to attain that steering feel I had with OEM wheels/tires with aftermarket wheels, tires and suspension.