rebuilding transmission
So I rebuilt my transmission..
And now I'm having trouble getting the case back together..
I cant tell if anything is hitting inside, it slides almost together but there's still almost a 1 inch gap...any hints?
This is the first time transmission I've worked on and I didnt have any problems until this..so any help would be appreciated.
And now I'm having trouble getting the case back together..
I cant tell if anything is hitting inside, it slides almost together but there's still almost a 1 inch gap...any hints?
This is the first time transmission I've worked on and I didnt have any problems until this..so any help would be appreciated.
did you spread the snap ring at the back of the case so the case can slide down over the bearing? - same snap ring you had to spread to get the case off - make sure all the shift fork shafts are lined up with the holes in the case - make sure that the little pins thru the shift fork shafts are in the grooves in the case
snap ring is huge.
make sure all 3 forks are sitting in top of the case correctly. try putting some thick gear oil over the fork shafts, and on top where it meets/sits in the top of the case.
make sure both gear clusters spin against eachother free ly with the the diff/ring gear. dry shift it without the top case on by usuing the selector fork.
sometimes i would have problems with with cases losing on b series transmissions, i would close it till it wouldt close no more, then flip it upside down, and pratically body slamm it on top of a phone book, eventually it would close.
you might want to think of that as an option
make sure all 3 forks are sitting in top of the case correctly. try putting some thick gear oil over the fork shafts, and on top where it meets/sits in the top of the case.
make sure both gear clusters spin against eachother free ly with the the diff/ring gear. dry shift it without the top case on by usuing the selector fork.
sometimes i would have problems with with cases losing on b series transmissions, i would close it till it wouldt close no more, then flip it upside down, and pratically body slamm it on top of a phone book, eventually it would close.
you might want to think of that as an option
Trending Topics
its a d series..
and it wont close enough for me to need to open the snap ring, i already thought of that.
how can i tell if the shift forks are lined up with the holes in the casing? just try over and over again?
and it wont close enough for me to need to open the snap ring, i already thought of that.
how can i tell if the shift forks are lined up with the holes in the casing? just try over and over again?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by White91EF »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thanks for the pictures looks like they should help a lot
one thing though, what are the shift selector *****?</TD></TR></TABLE>
the shift selecter ball bearings are installed AFTER you get the case together. They are the two holes on the end case that have 12mm bolts with springs on the end.
here's what I did:
- install gears and forks
- tighten the reverse selector and other stuff.
- put oil on the countershaft bearing and the top of the shift forks and reverse gear rod.
- slide the end case on and rotate the case back and forth while lightly tapping on the end with a rubber mallet
- eventually you'll feel the shift fork rods and bearings slide into their respective places in the end case... lightly tap the end case with the mallet until it gets closer and closer.
one thing though, what are the shift selector *****?</TD></TR></TABLE>
the shift selecter ball bearings are installed AFTER you get the case together. They are the two holes on the end case that have 12mm bolts with springs on the end.
here's what I did:
- install gears and forks
- tighten the reverse selector and other stuff.
- put oil on the countershaft bearing and the top of the shift forks and reverse gear rod.
- slide the end case on and rotate the case back and forth while lightly tapping on the end with a rubber mallet
- eventually you'll feel the shift fork rods and bearings slide into their respective places in the end case... lightly tap the end case with the mallet until it gets closer and closer.
I had the same problem (more than once) and by trial and error I found that if I put the case all the way down until it was at the 1 inch gap and then (with the case up on risers as Heron mentions) shift it through the gears. Everything magically aligns and it all slides back together
I hope that helps you out some
I hope that helps you out some
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Driven »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
the shift selecter ball bearings are installed AFTER you get the case together. They are the two holes on the end case that have 12mm bolts with springs on the end.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
that is not true for the D-series L3 transmission - the L3s have the detent ***** inside the forks and the detents are on the shafts - if you slide the forks off the shaft, the spring and ball comes out thru a hole in the fork
the shift selecter ball bearings are installed AFTER you get the case together. They are the two holes on the end case that have 12mm bolts with springs on the end.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
that is not true for the D-series L3 transmission - the L3s have the detent ***** inside the forks and the detents are on the shafts - if you slide the forks off the shaft, the spring and ball comes out thru a hole in the fork
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jlicrx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
that is not true for the D-series L3 transmission - the L3s have the detent ***** inside the forks and the detents are on the shafts - if you slide the forks off the shaft, the spring and ball comes out thru a hole in the fork </TD></TR></TABLE> Your right L3 trans. have internal ball detents. I confused it with d16y8 tranny that has the ***** externally removable
sorry
that is not true for the D-series L3 transmission - the L3s have the detent ***** inside the forks and the detents are on the shafts - if you slide the forks off the shaft, the spring and ball comes out thru a hole in the fork </TD></TR></TABLE> Your right L3 trans. have internal ball detents. I confused it with d16y8 tranny that has the ***** externally removable
sorry
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jlicrx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
that is not true for the D-series L3 transmission - the L3s have the detent ***** inside the forks and the detents are on the shafts - if you slide the forks off the shaft, the spring and ball comes out thru a hole in the fork </TD></TR></TABLE>
Good catch... I missed the D-series part.
that is not true for the D-series L3 transmission - the L3s have the detent ***** inside the forks and the detents are on the shafts - if you slide the forks off the shaft, the spring and ball comes out thru a hole in the fork </TD></TR></TABLE>
Good catch... I missed the D-series part.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
snatch
Honda Civic / Del Sol (1992 - 2000)
6
Jun 9, 2004 07:52 PM
boomslang
Forced Induction
2
Oct 30, 2001 08:29 PM






Make sure the shift selector ***** are not installed