- Motor
- Cable Tranny (Y1, S1, J1)
- ECU (PR3, PW0)
- Axles with Half Shaft
- Shift Linkage*
- After Market Mount Kit
- Alternator
- Starter
- Clutch
- Flywheel
- Intake Manifold
- Exhaust Manifold
- Fuel Rail
- Injectors
- Distributor
- Engine Harness
- Comes With All Sensors Needed

Also this is going into the engine bay of a 88 dx so in that case i will have to also

- Wire the fuel injectors
- Dent for the alternator to fit
- Wire the VTEC Pressure, soilnoid, o2 sensor, and oil pressure?

If theres anything that im missing I would sure be thankful for your help, also I will post pics if you like, for now my here is link to them - http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2347058/1

 

Looking good so far. Don't forget new belts for the alternator and ps pump if you're going to run ps that is.

 

oil filter timing belt and water pump and anything else for a tune up

 

other then tune up wise i have all the hardware, will the shift linkage and all line up?

 

Yeah but i also reccommend ryans services at RyWire.com, i think thats his website. If you go their you can get a pretty reasonable price on getting you're harness done pro style for the swap that way nothing will come loose or apart goin down the road. Unless you have even a little electrical experience i wouldn't advise trying to do the wiring yourself and messing up you're own "original" harness, their seem to be alot of idiots on the web AND in my town that think you can just "swap" engine harness like you can a bolt, NOT F***** TRUE, PERIOD. If you mess up you're 88 dx engine harness then you have to find another 88 dx engine harness, if you did not mess it up too bad then just touch it up a little bud. BTW I hope my info was useful, if you got anymore questions let me know, i'll be glad to give you some simple answers.

 

If it's from a 88-91 civic/crx swap, then yes it will, same car.

 

You are gonna have to get a little creative when putting it in the car you know, the motor that is. I highly advise getting a crowbar, a cheater bar, "short" or big or both" and def a pickle fork, lol.

 

I actually got a guide here under my favorites with wiring diagrams its the best swap guide that i have found so far, I think this may come to use of everyone - http://www.crxresource.org/mod...d=134, I wired my old d16z in my 95 civic but that was just the vtec and the solnoid and everything worked out ok, I dont think that the other wires should be all that bad also you dont really have to cut wires do you? just plug them in

 

Oh and on the pickle bar, I of coarse i have that ready to go :D I acutally painted the inside of my bay the color that im painting my car im trying to be extra careful not to scratch or damage anything :D

 

Don't forget you have to bolt your rear mount into the holes closest to the driver side. Also when I did my ls/vtec swap into my 88dx I had to cut the front crossmember to clear the header. I used place racing mounts. But maybe yours won't need it since its only a b16

 

Yea I dont believe that I will need to cut the cross member unless i was to put aftermarket headers stock should clear I hope, any other opinions would help

 

Well i have that one website saved in my fav's along with others for info and what not. The harness should just be sent and paid for to get done good, plus for a little more you can get them to add the injector resistor box and injector plugs and what not, unless you already got that stuff. I myself imo if i ever have to swap another mpfi engine into one of those turd of a dpfi models im gonna send the piece of **** harness to rywire cause they can just do a better job then me and some wires with some buttsplice and shitty electrical tape and some wire cutters, lol. When i had my old, old, old hatch before about a couple years ago or so i had help with doin the mpfi conversion on the dpfi model i had, and that **** was gay, i mean i had one of my injector wires come loose goin down the road and it started missfiring and i had to unwrap everything and long story short got really annoyed with the shitty harness.

 

Thanks alot i appreciate the help. Should this take care of everything that i need for it to bolt to my DX, if anyone else has anything that needs to be done or any tips it would be nice

 

You should definatly replace the front and rear main seals while the motor is out, dont neglect this. I would also change the cam seals, and cam plug. As a matter of fact, just change all of the seals while the motor is out, you will thank yourself later on. If you dont do this, you may kick yourself in the a*s when you cant locate exactly where that godamned oil leak is coming from (dont ask me how I know this ). Good luck.

 

Im not to sure on where those are in the first place lol, if you can help out with that as well it would be nice, and how much do those seals run and how hard would it be?