what is the difference between the UR and the no name ebay crank pulleys? from my understanding, they are all aluminum built with no harmonic dampening. so shouldnt they all be essential the same stuff?

 

don't get them the UR stress the engine, and the ebay pullyssuck a$$...Buy the CTR N1 pulley from http://www.hmotorsonline.com...They are the best, and about a 3rd of the price of a UR pulley...

 

Leave it stock. Don't mess with your crank pulley on a stock motor, those other ones are not dampened and will expletive your motor up over time. If you want more power for no money, remove your P/S & A/C.

 

i have a brand new UR for a 94-01 GSR b18

never taken out the box before i sold my gsr

sell it for 60$

wich is way cheap

gr_electronics@yahoo.com

 

Keep it stock...

 

both of them are garbage

keep it OEM, if you want a light pulley get the ITR or CTR pulley

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tekstyle &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what is the difference between the UR and the no name ebay crank pulleys? from my understanding, they are all aluminum built with no harmonic dampening. so shouldnt they all be essential the same stuff?</TD></TR></TABLE>

The primary difference, I would think, would be the quality of manufacture and materials. UR normally keeps tight tolerances and balance, and while the less expensive eBay versions might too, there is less certainty. The UR Tuner Series is a relatively inexpensive option, and you might also want to check the "Specials" section of the UR website, where you can often find very good pricing on cosmetically blemished or overstocked pulleys.

And pay no attention to the misinformed "CTR N1" crowd that recommends the N1 pulley but denounces the UR pulley in the same sentence.

 

what about the ITR pulley. someone said it was lighter. don't know if the gain is noticeable tho. is the CTR dampened?

 

The ITR pulley is a different part number than the GS-R pulley, though I haven't seen any weight comparisons between the two. From handling the ITR pulley, I can state that it certainly isn't "lightweight", and I doubt that the differences between it and other Integra pulleys are performance-based (perhaps something related to the ITR's different alternator).

The CTR pulley that most people commonly recommend is the N1 factory racing pulley. It is a solid pulley (just like the UR) that eliminates the AC and power steering belts. I prefer the UR because it allows the retention of AC and or power steering, is a bit lighter than the CTR N1, and also slightly under-drives.

 

their is nothing wrong with the ur pulleys ive been running them for almost 3 yrs daily driven and taking long trips. first installed them on stock gsr motor then boosted it , broke piston ring lands then transfered oil pump to another lsvtec swap and still boosted stock oil pump with 83,000 miles and stock gears.. the motor sees 8,000 rpm almost daily ... this has been my experince with ur pulleys (3 piece kit) i believe that most people have problems when they run high rpms for long times (freeway runs) i stick to the 1320 so maybe thats why mine still lasts...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by black98gsr-t &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">their is nothing wrong with the ur pulleys ive been running them for almost 3 yrs daily driven and taking long trips. first installed them on stock gsr motor then boosted it , broke piston ring lands then transfered oil pump to another lsvtec swap and still boosted stock oil pump with 83,000 miles and stock gears.. the motor sees 8,000 rpm almost daily ... this has been my experince with ur pulleys (3 piece kit) i believe that most people have problems when they run high rpms for long times (freeway runs) i stick to the 1320 so maybe thats why mine still lasts...</TD></TR></TABLE>

youre lucky then, my friend cashed out two motors with an unorthodox pulley

if you get them it is an absolute must to get them balanced

 

seeing how i probably don't have the time and effort to maintain a pulley mod, i guess i'll stay stock. thanks for everyone's input. moderator can close this thread.

 

You don't have to "maintain" a pulley mod any more so than the factory pulley. With regard to the two engines that "cashed out", I suspect there was more that contributed to their demise than simply the use of the UR pulley. Many, many people (think how many UR and similar pulleys have been sold over the years) run these pulleys, and if they were regularly destroying engines, one can assume there would be many more accounts of such issues.

Of course, there is still no conclusive evidence that the pulleys do or do not contribute to accelerated bearing wear, and there have been a great number of threads here on H-T where both sides of the argument have been discussed in depth. In the end, it's up to the individual to examine the arguments, information, and evidence (or lack thereof), and arrive at his or her own decision about running such a pulley. It seems you've decided to stick with stock, which is perfectly acceptable.

 

All i know is I would never put one on my motor and I would advise anyone else to do the same

 

oem for me

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by no2unenolife &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">oem for me</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDMdc2lsVtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> </TD></TR></TABLE>
Id go with oem, Then you know that your not going to spin a bearing.