I posted this in the RSX forum, but think this is probably where it should have originated...

Gentlemen (and ladies as appropriate),

I will be dragging my car in the next few weeks for the first time on drag radials ever. I would like to know the proper technique for launching... Assuming I have done the proper heat up procedure in the wet box, do I go to the line, hold 5500 (new si has a limitor at 5500) then dump the clutch/slip the clutch/?!?!

It just scares me to think of dumping the clutch at 5500 and hanging on, but I also do not want to bow out of the 2nd race because I have no clutch from slipping it on the first run... You guys have done it before, and I would like to know what you think.... Stock transmission, lsd, stock axles. Thoughts?

thank you in advance!


Modified by xlur8ed at 3:09 PM 5/11/2006

 

id drop it at 5500, dont think u would need to slip it at all, with my old hatch i used to drop it at 5800 and caught perfect everytime as long as the tires were warmed up correctly.

 

As far as heating up the tires, is it possible to overheat them??? I know you can underheat them, but besides wearing thru the tires faster is there any other disadvantages?!?

 

first of what drag radials............we prototyped the hoosiers and our sponsored by them and i think we know a little about rsx'x lol check these out for info
http://www.teamxxxracing.com
and http://www.volitileimportperformance.com

 

these are the 225/50/16 Hoosiers, I don't know what these links are for, but I sell them too (www.tintmasters.net / http://www.projectsti.net)... Being you have prototyped them, can you answer my original question?!?!

A) Drop clutch at 5500? Good chance of eating a axle/tranny?
or
B) Slip clutch at 5500? Good chance of eating stock clutch? (I understand there is risk no matter what, I am talking about added risk ie. which is safer)

C) Can you "overheat" a drag radial, and if so besides losing tread, what are other negatives?


Modified by xlur8ed at 4:45 PM 5/11/2006

 

new drag radials need a good breakin, lowee tire pressure between 12-10psi, brn out, preload and launch, stock clutches have sprung hubs that take the beating and tou usually damage the springs first

greg

 

Thanks Greg! I really appreciate your informative, quick answer, however you didn't answer if I should trust dumping the clutch, or slip it....

I would stop this 'internet' racing, but the first race day of the season at our track I have been called out for a $100 race against a 04 350z. So I don't have the luxury of 'practicing' So I need every bit of information I can obtain so I can try and practice every bit possible on concrete outside... :-\

 

QUESTIONS:
1. How do I purchase a Hoosier Race Tire?
2. What is the proper burn out procedure for Hoosier drag tires?
3. What is the number written on my bias race tire in yellow chalk?
4. I use a Hoosier (slick) drag tires and have noticed what appear to be "X's" appearing
across the contact portion of the tread surface, what is this and should I be concerned?
5. Can I swap tires from side to side? (from left to right and right to left)
6. Should I use "tubes" in slicks and DOT drag tires?
7. If my tires are "feathering or balling up" across the tread what should I do?
8. What might cause uneven wear on the outside or middle of the tread?
9. What is normal wear for a drag tire?
10. How do I get Hoosier decals for my race car?
11. Does it matter which direction I mount my Hoosier RACE TIRES?
12. What are the do's and don'ts when storing Hoosier race tires at the end of the racing season?
13. I would like to sell Hoosier tires, how do I become a Hoosier Tire Dealer?

ANSWERS:

1. As we race to get all our products in our online store, do not hesitate to contact us via email, IM, or by phone to find out pricing on the GO-FAST products you need for your car. We carry all products by HOOSIER RACING TIRE. HURRY! Contact us now and we will get back to you as soon as possible with the best price you can find online


2. What is the proper burn out procedure for Hoosier drag tires?

ANSWER: With Hoosier's "high traction" compounds, we have found the following burn out procedure to work for most cars. We recommend rolling through the water box to wet the tires. Start the burn out. Once the tires start to "haze", start to slow the burn out down and proceed to the start line. The goal of the burn out is to clean all debris off the tires and heat the just the surface of the tread.

Again this procedure will work for most cars, but fine tuning the procedure for your car may be needed. (Top)

3. What is the number written on my bias race tire in yellow chalk?

ANSWER: As a result of a tire being bias in design (as opposed to radial), it will have a circumference that varies from tire to tire. This is not something that is unique to Hoosier but is common to all bias tire manufacturers. However, Hoosier has went to the expense of placing a "chalk-mark" on it's bias ply tires in an attempt to assist the consumer in making the proper selection when purchasing new tires. It is something Hoosier does that it's competition does not. Now, to understand it's use, you need to understand a little of the manufacturing process as well.

After a tire is cured, it is removed from the press and placed on a machine called a "post-inflator". On this machine each tire has air injected into it for a set period of time. The amount of air is determined by our engineering department and is not the same for every type of tire Hoosier produces. After a set time period, a tire is then measured and the circumference is recorded. Then a press operator writes the size on the side of treaded tires and on the tread of slicks, in yellow chalk. All Hoosier bias ply tires with a chalk-mark, follow this same process.

Now, how should the chalk mark be interpreted? It should be viewed as a reference point or a guide on purchasing tires by size to attempt to attain a certain stagger. Say for instance, you needed to replace your right front tire. Your car currently has 1" of stagger (with the RF @ 28 p.s.i.) but you want to get 1 1/2" of stagger. The tire you were replacing had an original chalk mark of 86", and had a roll out, of say, 85". Obviously, you would want to purchase a tire bigger than the 86" tire you removed. Most likely, a tire with a chalk-mark of 86 1/2". You have to remember there are many factors that go into what size a tire will actually measure. The ambient temperature that day, the air pressure in the tire, whether the tire is new or old. These are factors that no, one person, controls. You just need to be aware of their existence and work with what you know. The chalk mark does not tell you the circumference of the tire at running pressure, it does not tell you how big a tire will grow to, it tells you that a tire is either going to be bigger or smaller than another one with a different chalk mark. It's just that simple. Bias ply tires, by nature, are going to vary in size, whether you buy a Hoosier or the competition's tire. By keeping good records, using common sense and understanding how the chalk-mark Hoosier tires provide, you will be step ahead in selecting the proper sized tire(s). (Top)

4. I use a Hoosier (slick) drag tires and have noticed what appear to be "X's" appearing across the contact portion of the tread surface, what is this and should I be concerned?

ANSWER: This is the "shadowing" effect of the splices within the slick drag tire. All our tires have splices, this is where two ends of the tire cord material is joined together to complete an entire body ply or belt. This area where the two ends are spliced together is obviously stronger along the splices and as a result deflects differently than areas with no splices and the result is this "shadowing" effect. You see this more on drag tires than other tires due to the softer compounds being used and the fact that the tread is a smooth surface. (Top)

5. Can I swap tires from side to side? (from left to right and right to left)

ANSWER: Hoosier does suggest, depending on the number of runs, swapping tires on a regular basis. The main reason for swapping tires is to help smooth out or even the tread wear. By swapping tires, it causes the tire to be run backwards, thus causing the tire to wear differently, which cleans up the tire tread. Watch for improper wear patterns on the tread, such as rolling or feathering. The tread surface should have a fine grain or velvet look to the surface. (Top)

6. Should I use "tubes" in slicks and DOT drag tires?

ANSWER: The decision to run tubes is ultimately up to the racer. Hoosier drag tires are capable of safely running without tubes. The Quick Time DOT tires should be run with a tube when the tire is run on the street, but they can be run without tubes at the track. Race tires are inherently susceptible to air leakage due to being built of very light gauge material needed to perform in various racing applications. A decision to use a tube should be based on your application and needs. (Top)

7. If my tires are "feathering or balling up" across the tread what should I do?

ANSWER: Rotate tires from side to side to help the tread wear. Irregular wear should dissipate after a couple of runs. Make sure you are using the proper compound for your application. (Top)

8. What might cause uneven wear on the outside or middle of the tread?

ANSWER: You may have had too much air pressure which caused the tire to crown and wear the center of the tread faster than the rest of the tread surface. Having too little air pressure may cause the reverse to occur (excessive wear to the outside of the tread). (Top)

9. What is normal wear for a drag tire?

ANSWER: There is no set degree of "normal" wear. If you feel you are getting to much wear, look to shorten the burnout time in the water box. Too much burnout will shorten the tread life of the tires. The softer the compound the more wear you would see given the same amount of burnout time. Most wear to the tread life of a drag tire comes from too much time in the burnout procedure. (Top)

10. How do I get Hoosier decals for my race car?

If you send us an e-mail at info@hoosiertire.com, requesting the decals, we would be happy to send them to you free of charge to anywhere in the United States and Canada. Remember to include your mailing address as to where you want them sent. To help defer the cost and avoid waste, in the e-mail please tell us whether you want BLACK decals or WHITE decals. We appreciate your support of Hoosier by displaying our name proudly on your race car. (Top)

11. Does it matter which direction I mount my Hoosier RACE TIRES?

12. What are the do's and don'ts when storing Hoosier race tires at the end of the racing season?

TIRE STORAGE
The useful life of a tire, whether mounted or dismounted, is directly affected by storage conditions. Tires should always be stored indoors in a dark, cool, dry room.

DO

1 Remove the tires from the vehicle.
2. Remove the air from the tires and store them on their side in a cool/dark/dry environment.
3. Place tires in a black plastic bag when stored during the "off-season".
4. Make sure the temperature range in the storage location is between 40-90 degrees Fahrenheit.

DON'T

1. Don't store tires in direct sunlight or near electric motors. (Electric motors emit small amounts of ozone.) Tires need to be protected from light, especially sunlight. Light causes ultraviolet damage by breaking down the rubber compounds. The storeroom should not contain electrical welding or any other equipment that could produce ozone.

2. Don't apply any chemical treatments to Hoosier tires. (It's not necessary and may actually damage the integrity of the tire by breaking down the rubber properties of the tire.) Tires must not be allowed to come in contact with oils, greases, solvents, or other petroleum products that cause rubber to soften or deteriorate.

3. Don't store tires in sub-freezing temperatures for any length of time. (The rubber can freeze and may crack as a result.) (Top)

13. I would like to sell Hoosier tires in the US or Canada, how do I become a Hoosier Tire Dealer?

Hoosier has an established network of independent Hoosier Distributors. They, in turn, establish their own network of Hoosier Dealers. You will need to contact the Hoosier Distributor in your area who handles the particular tire line you are interested in carrying. You will ask the Distributor whether they have a need for a dealer in your particular location.

 

ok first off i launch at 6500 on stock axles and a kevlar stage 3 clutch masters... i have personally broke an axle due to not preloading... also the tire pressure plays a big deal as stated before and yes a drag radial must be heat cycled for the best performance .keep in mind this is an 03 rsx type s open diff .. six speed trans lightly modded running 13.62@101

 

preload and thats it. once you preload, you can dump the clutch


get to the line, rev up to your spot, slowly release the clutch and right when it starts to grab stop and hold the clutch right at that point, pull ebrake, when light goes green, dump the clutch from the preload spot. there you go. oh and dont forget to release the ebrake

 

wow....thank you guys very much, I truly appreciate everything!

Thanks!