Kill switch in a Turbo Timed EG
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From: Windchestertonfieldville, NJ, USA
Kill switch in a Turbo Timed EG
What is needed to put a kill swith in a turbo timed car? obviously the car needs to stay running after i leave it.. so how would a kill switch come to play in this situation?
i was thinking just a starter kill, both a switch and a 'push-hold' button...? how would i go about wiring this up, would i need a relay or could i just throw a switch in the middle of the starter wire? (black/yellow i think it is?)
any help would be appreciated, im just trying to get it done now while my dash and interior is out. Thanks in advance
i was thinking just a starter kill, both a switch and a 'push-hold' button...? how would i go about wiring this up, would i need a relay or could i just throw a switch in the middle of the starter wire? (black/yellow i think it is?)
any help would be appreciated, im just trying to get it done now while my dash and interior is out. Thanks in advance
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From: City of champions, MA, USA
Re: (axtran)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by axtran »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">do a fuel line kill switch.</TD></TR></TABLE>
reletively easy to assemble and install.
reletively easy to assemble and install.
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From: Locash
Re: (HatchEh2)
Yes, a starter kill switch, and yes, you need a relay.
Cut the starter wire. Put the key side of the wire to 30, and loop an 18 gauge wire from 30 to 85. Put the engine side of the starter wire to 87. Run a wire from 86 to your switch, and ground the other side of your switch. I think a push button would be redundant, but you can put it on the same wire as the switch, or on the loop between 30 and 85.
Do not cut the starter wire under the dash. Do it somewhere in the engine bay, and hide it. If you have to extend the starter wire, use 10 gauge wire. Everything else can be 18 gauge.
And thank you for not being an idiot.
Cut the starter wire. Put the key side of the wire to 30, and loop an 18 gauge wire from 30 to 85. Put the engine side of the starter wire to 87. Run a wire from 86 to your switch, and ground the other side of your switch. I think a push button would be redundant, but you can put it on the same wire as the switch, or on the loop between 30 and 85.
Do not cut the starter wire under the dash. Do it somewhere in the engine bay, and hide it. If you have to extend the starter wire, use 10 gauge wire. Everything else can be 18 gauge.
And thank you for not being an idiot.
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From: Windchestertonfieldville, NJ, USA
Re: (suspendedHatch)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by suspendedHatch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yes, a starter kill switch, and yes, you need a relay.
Cut the starter wire. Put the key side of the wire to 30, and loop an 18 gauge wire from 30 to 85. Put the engine side of the starter wire to 87. Run a wire from 86 to your switch, and ground the other side of your switch. I think a push button would be redundant, but you can put it on the same wire as the switch, or on the loop between 30 and 85.
Do not cut the starter wire under the dash. Do it somewhere in the engine bay, and hide it. If you have to extend the starter wire, use 10 gauge wire. Everything else can be 18 gauge.
And thank you for not being an idiot.</TD></TR></TABLE>
your JUST the guy i was lookin to talk to, i just forgot your username to search for your other threads that i read in the past.
now the starter wire you FIRST mention.. is the black wire with the yellow line off the key cylinder right? excuse me if i dont make sense, im a bit HAMMEReD right now.. i lost a few rounds of beer pong.. VERY unusual for me lol
Cut the starter wire. Put the key side of the wire to 30, and loop an 18 gauge wire from 30 to 85. Put the engine side of the starter wire to 87. Run a wire from 86 to your switch, and ground the other side of your switch. I think a push button would be redundant, but you can put it on the same wire as the switch, or on the loop between 30 and 85.
Do not cut the starter wire under the dash. Do it somewhere in the engine bay, and hide it. If you have to extend the starter wire, use 10 gauge wire. Everything else can be 18 gauge.
And thank you for not being an idiot.</TD></TR></TABLE>
your JUST the guy i was lookin to talk to, i just forgot your username to search for your other threads that i read in the past.
now the starter wire you FIRST mention.. is the black wire with the yellow line off the key cylinder right? excuse me if i dont make sense, im a bit HAMMEReD right now.. i lost a few rounds of beer pong.. VERY unusual for me lol
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From: Windchestertonfieldville, NJ, USA
Re: (HatchEh2)
o ok.. i just read it again,... haha, NOT under the dash, so im goin thru the wire in the ENGINE BAY.. is that also the same color, sorry i didnt look... like i said two mins ago.. im drunk as hell right now..
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From: Locash
Re: (HatchEh2)
On your starter is a little rubber plug, under it is your starter wire. Trace this back to the firewall and make your cut. Use a relay. It's a black/white wire. Black/yellow is ignition so it's not going to work with your turbo timer.
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From: Windchestertonfieldville, NJ, USA
Re: (suspendedHatch)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by suspendedHatch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">On your starter is a little rubber plug, under it is your starter wire. Trace this back to the firewall and make your cut. Use a relay. It's a black/white wire. Black/yellow is ignition so it's not going to work with your turbo timer.</TD></TR></TABLE>
THANKS ALOT man... now i have one more question, actually 2.
-to make a killswitch for the ECU aswell, since its a low voltage wire, i COULD just splice a switch in between the ground wire going to the ECU right? or would it be better to use the ECU's power wire? or would this hurt something in general...other than a theifs precious time of course
-and also, a fuel kill would be done the same way as the starter correct? its the wire running down the drivers side door sill... i cant remember what color it was but i know it had yellow in it somewhere..? the fuel pump side would go to 87 and the fuse box side goes to 30, then i loop 30 and 85 and put my switch on 86 and ground the other side...correct??
THANKS ALOT man... now i have one more question, actually 2.
-to make a killswitch for the ECU aswell, since its a low voltage wire, i COULD just splice a switch in between the ground wire going to the ECU right? or would it be better to use the ECU's power wire? or would this hurt something in general...other than a theifs precious time of course
-and also, a fuel kill would be done the same way as the starter correct? its the wire running down the drivers side door sill... i cant remember what color it was but i know it had yellow in it somewhere..? the fuel pump side would go to 87 and the fuse box side goes to 30, then i loop 30 and 85 and put my switch on 86 and ground the other side...correct??
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From: Windchestertonfieldville, NJ, USA
Re: (HatchEh2)
make that 3 questions, sorry lol:
-i bought the relay, 2 switchs,and a universal horn button from autozone to use as the push button. the only thing im wondering is- does it matter what amperage the switch is? its a 3A at 125VAC and 1.5A at 250VAC. then the other says"maximum 10A"
and the relay is a 30amp..
-i bought the relay, 2 switchs,and a universal horn button from autozone to use as the push button. the only thing im wondering is- does it matter what amperage the switch is? its a 3A at 125VAC and 1.5A at 250VAC. then the other says"maximum 10A"
and the relay is a 30amp..
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From: Locash
Re: (HatchEh2)
Don't use the ECU's power or ground wire. The ECU stores CELs and fuel/ignition maps that you don't want to be resetting all the time. It will actually hurt your performance and mileage. There are other wires going to the ECU you can interrupt. This is not something I do very often so I'm not that familiar with them. You can search through fcm's posts cuz he just covered this on an Integra and it should be similar, or you can do what I do and look at the wiring diagram or ECU pinout for your particular vehicle and find the wires that trigger the main relay etc.
On Honda's the fuel pump wire is generally yellow, yellow/green, or yellow/black. I NEVER cut this wire without first verifying it with a digital volt meter. There is no excuse not to get a DVM. If you're too stupid to spend 10 minutes reading the instructions, or too poor to lay down $15 to buy one, then you might as well throw your hopeless *** off the nearest cliff. Right?
to make a killswitch for the ECU aswell, since its a low voltage wire, i COULD just splice a switch
Yes.
-and also, a fuel kill would be done the same way as the starter correct? its the wire running down the drivers side door sill... i cant remember what color it was but i know it had yellow in it somewhere..? the fuel pump side would go to 87 and the fuse box side goes to 30, then i loop 30 and 85 and put my switch on 86 and ground the other side...correct??
Yes. This is how you wire a SPST relay to do just about anything you want.
-i bought the relay, 2 switchs,and a universal horn button from autozone to use as the push button. the only thing im wondering is- does it matter what amperage the switch is? its a 3A at 125VAC and 1.5A at 250VAC. then the other says"maximum 10A"
and the relay is a 30amp..
Actually you're going to need DC switches and relays. I'm not sure if AC will work, but I wouldn't risk it. I would use 10 or 15A for even the small amperage wires. If you're going to put the switch inline with the fuel pump wire without a relay, then I'd use a 20 or 25A. Just for that measure of safety. I would not put a switch without a relay onto any 10 gauge wire like the ignition or starter. The advantage to using a relay is that you can put a diode jumper between the 85 and 86 pins to prevent feedback. For clarity, do some reading at http://www.the12volt.com
On Honda's the fuel pump wire is generally yellow, yellow/green, or yellow/black. I NEVER cut this wire without first verifying it with a digital volt meter. There is no excuse not to get a DVM. If you're too stupid to spend 10 minutes reading the instructions, or too poor to lay down $15 to buy one, then you might as well throw your hopeless *** off the nearest cliff. Right?
to make a killswitch for the ECU aswell, since its a low voltage wire, i COULD just splice a switch
Yes.
-and also, a fuel kill would be done the same way as the starter correct? its the wire running down the drivers side door sill... i cant remember what color it was but i know it had yellow in it somewhere..? the fuel pump side would go to 87 and the fuse box side goes to 30, then i loop 30 and 85 and put my switch on 86 and ground the other side...correct??
Yes. This is how you wire a SPST relay to do just about anything you want.
-i bought the relay, 2 switchs,and a universal horn button from autozone to use as the push button. the only thing im wondering is- does it matter what amperage the switch is? its a 3A at 125VAC and 1.5A at 250VAC. then the other says"maximum 10A"
and the relay is a 30amp..
Actually you're going to need DC switches and relays. I'm not sure if AC will work, but I wouldn't risk it. I would use 10 or 15A for even the small amperage wires. If you're going to put the switch inline with the fuel pump wire without a relay, then I'd use a 20 or 25A. Just for that measure of safety. I would not put a switch without a relay onto any 10 gauge wire like the ignition or starter. The advantage to using a relay is that you can put a diode jumper between the 85 and 86 pins to prevent feedback. For clarity, do some reading at http://www.the12volt.com
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From: Windchestertonfieldville, NJ, USA
Re: (suspendedHatch)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by suspendedHatch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
There is no excuse not to get a DVM. If you're too stupid to spend 10 minutes reading the instructions, or too poor to lay down $15 to buy one, then you might as well throw your hopeless *** off the nearest cliff. Right?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Proud owner of Three
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by suspendedHatch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">On Honda's the fuel pump wire is generally yellow, yellow/green, or yellow/black. I NEVER cut this wire without first verifying it with a digital volt meter.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i have an eh2 (94 hatch) would it be a specific color for my model? ill check it either way tho..
Modified by HatchEh2 at 10:00 AM 5/17/2006
There is no excuse not to get a DVM. If you're too stupid to spend 10 minutes reading the instructions, or too poor to lay down $15 to buy one, then you might as well throw your hopeless *** off the nearest cliff. Right?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Proud owner of Three
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by suspendedHatch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">On Honda's the fuel pump wire is generally yellow, yellow/green, or yellow/black. I NEVER cut this wire without first verifying it with a digital volt meter.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i have an eh2 (94 hatch) would it be a specific color for my model? ill check it either way tho..
Modified by HatchEh2 at 10:00 AM 5/17/2006
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From: Windchestertonfieldville, NJ, USA
Re: (HatchEh2)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by suspendedHatch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Do not cut the starter wire under the dash. Do it somewhere in the engine bay, and hide it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
why is this? is that a must... because i have the dash out already, and i traced it to the drivers side firewall, theres plenty of room to make a cut right behind the clutch master cylinder.
THeres a brown plug that it seems to run into, that brown plug holds the starter wire (black/white) and a plain white wire, along with 2 blue/white wires. They all seem to lead to the keycylinder, (except for the 2 blue/whites, they lead somewhere on the steering colum...horn i guess?) could i make my cut between the key cylinder and the brown plug? i have a clear view of where im gonna mount the relay on the firewall there.. once the dash is in itll be impossible to find since its so high up.
is it visibility thats the reason you told me to make the cut in the engine bay? so the person trying to hot wire the car doesnt just find the relay and connect the wires to complete the circuit and bypass the switch...?
Do not cut the starter wire under the dash. Do it somewhere in the engine bay, and hide it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
why is this? is that a must... because i have the dash out already, and i traced it to the drivers side firewall, theres plenty of room to make a cut right behind the clutch master cylinder.
THeres a brown plug that it seems to run into, that brown plug holds the starter wire (black/white) and a plain white wire, along with 2 blue/white wires. They all seem to lead to the keycylinder, (except for the 2 blue/whites, they lead somewhere on the steering colum...horn i guess?) could i make my cut between the key cylinder and the brown plug? i have a clear view of where im gonna mount the relay on the firewall there.. once the dash is in itll be impossible to find since its so high up.
is it visibility thats the reason you told me to make the cut in the engine bay? so the person trying to hot wire the car doesnt just find the relay and connect the wires to complete the circuit and bypass the switch...?
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