Hey,

I've got a noob question

I'm looking into buying a shell but the ITR ones are sickly expensive compared to the RS shells. I'm planning on putting a cage in the car along with other structural reinforcements (ie. trunk bar, rear lower tie bar, front struct bar etc...). Would the cage and the other reinforements increase the rigitidty to ITR quality OR am I just wasting my time and save for the ITR shell?

~~Brian aka Hooptie~~

 

I'm sure all the reinforcements help EVEN if you plan to add a cage...but to what degree perhaps only structural engineers can quantify with nice stress graphs and numbers...or professional racecar builders like King Motorsports....

IMO, if you're going to put in a cage that is designed to save your life (weld-in with extensive side protection etc) then your money should be spent on that and not on the "better" platform to start.

Perhaps somebody who has built an RS with a cage and has caged an R can chime in if they FEEL any different behind the wheel.

Something I seriously doubt us "elitists" can tell....

 

I bet you'd be happier with the RS in the long run just for the fact of the cost.

So I'm guessing it will be something like...

I got an Integra RS on Gran Turismo 5 and I love that car, so I decided to build a car like it in real life.

 

imo I think you'd waste money trying to find an ITR shell if all you're planning on doing is adding the cage and other items. ITR shells as you already know are usually over priced, but it is more than possible to make an RS equally if not far more stiff and sturdy with a well built full cage.

I suggest you contacting .RJ and asking him the same topic since he has alot of experience with exactly your question and plan. Dealing from the R owners end and also sourcing and building an RS for Honda Challenge this last year or so.

I also know that it is not so easy as it may seem to find even the right RS shell but can be done with time and patience. Heck I'm waitin for my cousin to finally be ready to sell his 00 white RS, I'll jump all over that and track prep it in a heartbeat.

 

There was an itr shell for sale locally here for $200 dollars.......if that's too much.....then better find a new hobby

 

Maybe if not a cage then this crazy *** thing plus the other stuff:



Plus



or just



Would these make it was stiff or is a cage the only option?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdmspoonitr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">There was an itr shell for sale locally here for $200 dollars.......if that's too much.....then better find a new hobby </TD></TR></TABLE>

Where and when!!! If you come across another, TELL ME MAN!!! geez...

 

Rollbar is a safety item, not a stiffner IMO.

Those other bars belong on a playground.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Aquafina &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Rollbar is a safety item, not a stiffner IMO.

Those other bars belong on a playground.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Of coarse but a cage does make a car stiffer and more predictable at the same time as adding safety. I just wanted to know if there was a HUGE difference in the ITR and other shells (I know 30% stock but when you start adding stuff the gap has got to get smaller)

 

A cage makes the car stiffer. I'm talking about a rollbar.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Aquafina &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Rollbar is a safety item, not a stiffner IMO.

Those other bars belong on a playground.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I think it depends on how the rollbar is designed. I noticed a definite difference from when I had the rear strut tower bar alone, then added my welded rollbar. The car rotates better with the rollbar as opposed to just the rear strut tower bar.

I'd surmise that a well built full cage will provide not only protection but a stiffer chassis.

Take a look at page 5 of RJ's post about building his cage in his RS:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1439667&page=5

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1GreyTeg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I think it depends on how the rollbar is designed. I noticed a definite difference from when I had the rear strut tower bar alone, then added my welded rollbar. The car rotates better with the rollbar as opposed to just the rear strut tower bar.

I'd surmise that a well built full cage will provide not only protection but a stiffer chassis.

Take a look at page 5 of RJ's post about building his cage in his RS:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1439667&page=5</TD></TR></TABLE>

I agree. I had lower tie rod bars, front and rear, upper strut tower braces front and rear and none made close to a difference that my weld in roll bar did. Others that have driven my car have also commented on how well the weld in roll bar has stiffened up the chasis.

I have since removed those tie rod bars and strut tower braces and feel no change.

You will get two birds with one stone: Most importantly, safety will be addressed and as a bonus, the chasis will be significantly strengthened/stiffened. Make sure you do a weld in.

 

and every once in a while you find a diamond in the rough, like how i found mine for 500 dollars...

keep looking..

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdmspoonitr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">There was an itr shell for sale locally here for $200 dollars.......if that's too much.....then better find a new hobby </TD></TR></TABLE>

where is this?? i would really like to know

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdmspoonitr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">There was an itr shell for sale locally here for $200 dollars.......if that's too much.....then better find a new hobby </TD></TR></TABLE>is that the yellow one with the bent frame?

 

Here is the pic of the ITR chassis with key points noted. Just determine how many of these are addressed with a weld in cage.

 

Hell looks like most of those could be addressed with bolt on part sans the Thicker Rear wheel arches and Wheelhouse thickness.

 

any other feedback on this?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hooptie157 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">any other feedback on this?</TD></TR></TABLE>

did you bother to contact RJ yet? I'm sure he'd have Alot to contribute about this topic.

 

Cage it, rear cross bar, you should be set.

IMO, i dont think youll need anything else other than that.

 

It seems a lot of people have disregarded the classing as well. The RS and the ITR will be in two different classes unless you're planning on not sticking with the stock classing... the ITR has the 5-lug and the B18C5 stock and all this talk about the actual stiffness of the damn chassis wont really matter until you decide what you're going to be racing in and with...

Edit: I assume since we're talking full on rollcage and this level of technical specifications that the car will be a race car, if not then there's really no point at all to discuss crap like this.

 

does this replace the rear performance rod?
http://www.passwordjdm.com/pro...D=374

it dont look like it is mounted in the same holes as the OEM

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by KOALA YUMMIES &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It seems a lot of people have disregarded the classing as well. The RS and the ITR will be in two different classes unless you're planning on not sticking with the stock classing... the ITR has the 5-lug and the B18C5 stock and all this talk about the actual stiffness of the damn chassis wont really matter until you decide what you're going to be racing in and with...

Edit: I assume since we're talking full on rollcage and this level of technical specifications that the car will be a race car, if not then there's really no point at all to discuss crap like this.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I was about to post the same thing.. glad I scrolled down to read your post..

if, for instance, you want to build a Honda Challenge H2 car like I did, you will need an ITR chassis.. if you're just building some weird streetcar with all these funny bars everywhere, the RS is a better choice.. I really doubt you'd be able to tell the difference, personally, as long as the cage/extra bars are done properly..

with that said, I have a clean title R shell for sale..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CRXnorway &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">does this replace the rear performance rod?</TD></TR></TABLE> nope... only the ITR has the bold holes for the rear performance rod.
the linked bar uses the bumper bolts to be fastened... and is bolted down vs. bolted toward the rear lamps (like the OEM bar).

the one in the link should/could work just as well as the OEM bar.