I searched and searched.

I have a weird problem that nobody has though. Everybody has one caliper sticking. I have two.

Here's the story. I did 5 lug swap on my 92 CX hatch. While we were at it, we changed out the brake booster and master cyl for an Integra one with NO-ABS.

Bled all the brakes, bench bled the master cyl, did everything and I get in the car and yes, I have brakes.

The thing is, the brakes grab at the slightest pressure of the brake pedel. It's a hard pedal and not a spongy one. If I press on it enough, it will become really hard.

I jacked the rear up and yes, both wheels will barely spin with the e-brake off.

Any ideas?

 

ah yes, and also whenever I drive on the freeway, the steering wheel will shake if I go over 70 or so.

When I apply the brakes, it will seem like I have warped rotors.

 

BUMP!

 

BUMP!!!!!!!!

Changed out the brake booster for a known good one. Was fine for like 5 minutes and then it started to have a hard pedal once again.

 

Good lord, nobody knows?

 

So you swapped all 4 Hubs, and only your Rear Wheels are having trouble spinning? Whatever's giving you the resistance will make noise. Tell us about what you hear, where it's coming from, etc.

Do the 5-Lug Hubs have the exact same dimensions as the 4-Lug Hubs (Front and/or Rear)? I don't have a 5-Lug Hub in hand, so I can't say. I'm pretty sure it's NOT the same for the Front, but I don't know about the Rear. If anyone else can provide a link, ! There might be a mis-fit somewhere causing your rotors to maintain TOO MUCH contact with the pads and/or the assembly in general.

But you have to tell us a little more about what you see and hear from the problem area(s). There can be a lot of different things in play that give you the symptoms you have. Tell us more about what Year, Make, Model, Doors, Trim, Tranny, ABS for both the Donor Vehicle/Donor Parts and the Project Vehicle & any related mods (edit: oic.. 92 CX Hatch (Nice Paint!!! )), or give us some MFR Part Numbers.

Regardless, a hydraulic problem will affect all 4 corners of your car, and not just the rears. They crossed the brake circuits LF/RR & RF/LR. Switching your Hydraulic components won't help much if your Rear Calipers are siezed.

Let us know, and gl!
JasonGhostz

PS - Try not to drive your car 70+ MPH while your car is in this condition...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JasonGhostz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So you swapped all 4 Hubs, and only your Rear Wheels are having trouble spinning? Whatever's giving you the resistance will make noise. Tell us about what you hear, where it's coming from, etc.

Do the 5-Lug Hubs have the exact same dimensions as the 4-Lug Hubs (Front and/or Rear)? I don't have a 5-Lug Hub in hand, so I can't say. I'm pretty sure it's NOT the same for the Front, but I don't know about the Rear. If anyone else can provide a link, ! There might be a mis-fit somewhere causing your rotors to maintain TOO MUCH contact with the pads and/or the assembly in general.

But you have to tell us a little more about what you see and hear from the problem area(s). There can be a lot of different things in play that give you the symptoms you have. Tell us more about what Year, Make, Model, Doors, Trim, Tranny, ABS for both the Donor Vehicle/Donor Parts and the Project Vehicle & any related mods (edit: oic.. 92 CX Hatch (Nice Paint!!! )), or give us some MFR Part Numbers.

Regardless, a hydraulic problem will affect all 4 corners of your car, and not just the rears. They crossed the brake circuits LF/RR & RF/LR. Switching your Hydraulic components won't help much if your Rear Calipers are siezed.

Let us know, and gl!
JasonGhostz

PS - Try not to drive your car 70+ MPH while your car is in this condition...</TD></TR></TABLE>

Alright, I will try to answer your questions in which I should have stated earlier anyways.

I put the car on a lift today....tried to spin all 4 wheels. All of them gave me a lot of resistance, especially the front ones.

It's a 92 CX hatch with USDM 5-lug. I am running a MC and BB out of a KNOWN working Integra GSR. Thanks on the paint remark

The only thing I can think of right now is that I know if you change the BB, you have to adjust the pedel, which I am gonna start on tomoroww. The pedel is not even at all with the clutch pedel so I HOPE that is the cause of all this heartache.

Also, do you know if the shaft inside the civic BB and Integra BB are the same size? It is the shaft that goes into the MC from the BB.

 

Hmmm... Maybe people who've done 5-lug conversions can chime in, because I haven't done one. But you're sure you got everything you needed from whoever you got your conversion from? Here's a link to passwordjdm's page on the EG 5-Lug Conversion Set... There's an interesting note about modifying your axle.
http://www.passwordjdm.com/pro...D=251

You mentioned you are using the GSR BB and BMC (previous post), but mentioned that you had switched it in from a non-ABS Integra (first post). I don't know what kind of effects using ABS Hydraulics (GSR) on your non-ABS car will have, but I'm pretty sure I've read about people successfully doing this before... Maybe just a slight mis-match is giving you the problems you have. Here are some links that might help..

1998 3DR ITR: http://www.acuraoemparts.com/d...ch=no
1998 3DR GSR: http://www.acuraoemparts.com/d...ch=no
1992 3DR CX: http://slhondaparts.com/browse...INDER
Note that the Brake Master Cylinder Systems for the ITR & GS-R only differ in their "A-Tube" (46404-ST7-A10 vs 46404-ST7-A20, respectively). I don't know what accounts for this...

5-Lug Brakes:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=727742
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=603964
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=728715

ITR/CTR Brake Hydraulics:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1616189
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1619530
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1494517
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1586208

Since this thread is titled "Caliper Sticking", I don't think the following is a problem, but... What condition were your Hub/Bearing Assemblies (Front and Rear) when you installed this conversion? If you need to, detach each of your Calipers (you don't have to disconnect the Brake Hose), and see if your Wheel will spin freely. I know a lot of places that sell "conversions" in crappy conditions... Maybe your Hub Nuts are too tight?? If your Wheels will spin freely, then you can at least isolate the problem to your Calipers & the Hydraulics that might be pushing the Piston out. But if your Wheels are hard to spin when the Caliper is off, then maybe your Calipers and Hydraulics are A-OK, although replacing the front Hub & Bearing can be a MFPITA.

Other than that, I can't think of anything else...

And I was serious about the for the car color!!! The color sincerly appeals to me. I might not get a paint job like that, but I'm not BS-ing when I say I LIKE IT!! I was a little miffed when that TV commercial poked fun at the "Lime Green Hatchback" guy...

Anyway, GL with your car. Check up on those other posts I fished out, and let us know what works!
JasonGhostz