Im in the process of buying a good performance car battery that will deliver the most power to my system. As of right now im running 2 12" JL w6v2 power by a 1100.1 zapco amp, diamond audio s600 in the front and s500 in the back, speakers powered by a 360.4 zapco amp, im using a 5 farad alumapro cap and just recently my 1100.1 zapco amp stop powering up (it'll turn on then shuts off then turn back on, shuts off etc.). I talk to a guy that works at my local audio store about it and he said it could be that the 5 farad alumapro is storing too much power in the cap and that the stock battery doesnt have enough power left. He recommended me to buy a performance battery so this is where my question comes in, what's a good car battery? I've heard some bad things about optima but i don't know if its true or not, so throw me some answers. Thank you.

 

The 1100 doesn't power on at all?

 

at first everything worked fine, system was hitting really hard. Then just a few days ago the 1100.1 would power up then shuts off then power up and shuts off again, it seems like it didnt have enough power the light would come on then automatically shuts off and then turn back on. The 360.4 amp is still up and running. A few of my friends is telling me to upgarde my battery and alternator could that be it? If so would a 135amp alternator be enough or should i go with the 170amp?

 

Try the SVR deep cycle batteries.

 

What kind of car and how many amps is your stock alt puttn out?

I think you should upgrade to a yellowtop and upgrade the big 3.
heres a little write up:
http://www.caraudio.com/forum/...32795

What size is your power wire? If its not 0AWG maybe you should upgrade to that. Definitely get rid of the cap and MAYBE add a 2nd battery?

EDIT: if you have the money go for kinetik batterys. http://www.kinetikaudio.com

 

first off, the guy at your local audio store doesnt know what hes talking about if he actually said that. Your battery is for starting the car, once your car is started your electrical system runs off of your alternator. Dont believe me? start your car and disconnect the negative terminal of your battery, if your alternator is good the car will continue to run. If your car shuts off, it means you killed your alternator. Adding a second battery is only going to allow you to run your stereo system for longer periods of time with the car off.
Capacitors are discharged in a matter of a split second, it couldnt "store too much power in it", also capacitors regulate the voltage at which your amplifiers run. Meaning without a cap when your amp requires more current than your wiring can deliver in that moment, it causes a voltage spike. Voltage spikes decrease the output of an amplifier. An amp that is capable of producing 500watts RMS at 14.4V might only be capable of producing 375wrms at 12.5v. In short caps keep the output of your amplifier consistent. Dont get rid of the cap, they are always a good idea.
Chances are your alternator is the weak link here.
Check your ground on the amp.
Who installed the amp?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by XaznkewlguyX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I think you should upgrade to a yellowtop


</TD></TR></TABLE> Yellow tops are auxiliary batteries only, they would be for someone that has a redtop under thier hood, this misinformation is why optimas have gotten a bad name, they arent bad batteries, its just that the salesmen who sell them arent trained on them and the people buying them dont know any better. <TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by XaznkewlguyX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> What size is your power wire? If its not 0AWG maybe you should upgrade to that. Definitely get rid of the cap and MAYBE add a 2nd battery?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
2 awg would be fine for the amplifiers he is running more than likely. as a rule of thumb, 8 awg is good for up to 500wrms, 4awg 1000wrms, 2 awg 2000wrms, 1/0 awg 3000, 0/0 4000. Having 0/0 isnt going to hurt, it would just be a bitch to run.
I would assume you are running the 1100.1 @2ohms and the 360.4 @4ohms which would total 1300wrms which is well within the realm of 2 awg.
Those are excellent amps you have there but you might consider adding another amp for mids, 50x4 isnt enought to compete with 1100w. Damn I just looked at the damping factor of the dc1100.1 &gt;700@4 ohms!

 

well in my civic hatch i had upgraded to a 150a alt, is was good enough to power my factory battery, through 1/0 guage all the way to the back where i had two xstatic batcap 800's, i used it to power my memphis mojo 2000d, it did fine, umm..... ever heard of signal clipping? maybe you have that, is it a momentary cutting off or for a long period of time?, get a digital multimeter and test the voltage while amps are playing.. is amp getting hot? alot of amps, esp a zapco have very good features, being its a clean powered amp, they have clean xovers and good protection systems, if the amp is not mounted correctly and overheats, possible to lack of ventilation, the amp could be going into thermal protection mode, alot of amps cannot operat with less than about 11.5v, if your supply dropped below that, all the amps would prob cut off not just that one. try turning the gain down and see if problem persist, oh and yes, anytime you exceed 1200w of rms power, its a good idea to start boosting that power supply. good batteries, xstatic, optima-yellow top, there are alot out there.