Hey can anyone advise me on where i can find a "california emission legal" catalytic converter withouth having to go to the dealership to get the OEM one. I've checked online and they have a couple but most of them say "except for california based models" or " for non-california emission cars". That sucks cuz my cars in freakin california. Any other places .. .im trying to avoid a honda dealership.. Like all other accords i got the code for cat deterioration after my check engine light came on. Its for a 2000 Honda Accord ex 2dr 2.3L ULEV Vtec F23A1 with about 150,000k on it. Thanks

 

It sucks but you're probably going to have to go through a dealer for this one.

 

Call your local muffler shop.

 

If you click on the word catalytic converter it posts a link to a good site.

 

Damn... a ballpark figure how much would it run at the dealership?

 

Hey man i work at a dealer that cat is so ridiculously over priced honda list is 1446.93 p/n 18160-PAA-L20.

 

It varies from dealership to dealership, but I was quoted from $700-900 by 4 different dealerships. (non-Cali cat) Any muffler shop in Cali should be able to get cats that are compliant with Cali-emissions. The cost would probably vary from $150-400, depending on the shop and brand.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by S CARTER &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hey man i work at a dealer that cat is so ridiculously over priced honda list is 1446.93 p/n 18160-PAA-L20.</TD></TR></TABLE>

$1500???? Something is wrong with your dealership.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by philadd &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

$1500???? Something is wrong with your dealership.</TD></TR></TABLE>

seriously i know that sucks, but call any dealership and check that part number.

 

that HAS to include instilation, a full OBDII system scan, and a hand job

 

Majestic Honda: List price for a converter is $677.66. (Their price is $508.24.)

I don't have a way of checking part numbers. What the hell is that part number for? Because as I stated earlier,

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by philadd &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It varies from dealership to dealership, but I was quoted from $700-900 by 4 different dealerships. </TD></TR></TABLE>

 

the part number is unique to that converter. It eliminates any guesswork. If you call a dealership and give them the number, they can tell you the price(some dealers may have a lower price).

 

The OP has the ULEV (Ultra Low Emission Vehicle) model Accord, so the cataltyic converter is considerably more.

At Majestic:

http://www.hondaautomotivepart...+PIPE

At SLHonda.com, a search can be done with the Honda P/N 18160-PAA-L20.

 

I knew it would be more, but not THAT much more.

And I could have sworn I searched Majestic Honda for the Cali cat. Oh well.

All I can say is DAMN.

 

Random Technology or Kteller. Got mine from Random Tech, about 3bills bolt on emission compliant I'm pretty sure.

 

damn....dats mad money.. and thats just for the oem? if i run an aftermarket cat converter would the 02 sensor pick it up as a check engine light as well?

Theres also this converter on this link here " http://www.autopartswarehouse....d=360"

Its a "D.E.C" for $157.00 for 2000 Accord ex, or lx..... is this trustworthy? Anyone had any experience with it?


Modified by BPAccord at 4:41 PM 5/8/2006

 

Your 2000 Accord was one of the first gas powered ULEV sold in California. Not all OBD II cars sold in Calif. qualify under this designation by CARB (California Air Resource Board). (Yours actually qualified under SULEV, Super Ultra Low Emission Vehicle). Most of the other ULEVs sold were hybrids (e.g., gas/electric).

I'm not sure if you would pass a Calif. emission test with a different type of converter.

A non-ULEV Accord sold in California uses the lower price OEM converters.

 

Would it be cheaper than to just run a hi flow cat or aftermarket cat and just get an aftermarket exhaust? Would the check engine light still be on or is that something like resetting my ecu could fix?

 

It would be cheaper to run an aftermarket converter, as for it passing Cali. strict emission test; I wouldn't know.

I believe on that model accord, the O2 sensor goes directly into the converter. The alignment where the O2 sensor goes in the ULEV converter vs. a non-ILEV converter may be slightly different, so possibly modification to extend the O2 sensor wiring may be necessary.

<U>An option is to try to call a salvage yard to get the OEM ULEV converter</U>.

You would have to reset the ECU to get rid of the check engine light, not sure if it would come back though.

 

any idea or recommendations on which aftermarket converter? can i still run the stock exhaust pipe or would it be wise to just run an aftermarket exhaust as well? screw the damn emission controls in california!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tech8 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
<U>An option is to try to call a salvage yard to get the OEM ULEV converter</U>.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Federal law makes it illegal for junkyards to sell used catalytic converters.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by philadd &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Federal law makes it illegal for junkyards to sell used catalytic converters.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Not if it is properly tested and labeled.

http://www.epa.gov/otaq/cert/factshts/catcvrts.pdf

 

You can use a High-flow cat if you have a hook-up on the inspection cause when they sniff the pipes it will probably still fail.. the sensor is directly aft of the cat so its gonna trip a CEL. if you reset the light and drive to get the inspection.... make sure and reset the light right when you park the car... then let them start it up and drive it in.... the light will come back on only after the second consecutive start with the same code. I have a high flow cat on mine and it trips the code regardless.. I have heard of a transistor that you can weld in front of the o2 sensor at the cat and it will prevent it from tripping that code, I think its called a MIL or something... good luck.

 

Magnaflow now offers, or at least has listed on its website, CARB approved Hi-Flow Cats.

http://www.car-sound.com/catal....aspx

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tech8 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Not if it is properly tested and labeled.

http://www.epa.gov/otaq/cert/factshts/catcvrts.pdf</TD></TR></TABLE>

Learn something new everyday... Too bad they don't test them here in Houston. Every junkyard here simply won't do it.