I would like your guys input on this project.

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Old May 7, 2006 | 09:46 PM
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Default I would like your guys input on this project.

This whole idea started with thieves or vandals messing with my car. So I walked out to my car after work one day, I work at a dealership and we have our employee parking with a sports retail store’s customer parking. The parking lot isn’t usually bad but it has it’s moments (Radio was stolen out of a techs car in broad daylight three weeks ago). I walked out to my car and found my muffler sitting an inch and a half from the ground (way out of position). Someone was trying to steal my muffler or just f**king up my exhaust. My setup was my stock DX exhaust with the muffler removed and a Ractive Carbon fiber muffler. They had messed up my setup pretty bad. I had to string the muffler up with a coat hanger. A week later the muffler had gave way and separated from the pipe, so I had to drive with the muffler off. With the muffler on it was nice and throaty, with out it, it sounded extremely ricey. So when my timing belt went I bent some valves and are getting them replaced, I decided to quit being lazy and do something about it plus I had to take it off when I took off the head. I was too broke to go out and buy a cat back (Bent valves!) I went up to a local muffler shop and had them bend me up a pipe I designed and weld on some hangers I fabbed up. Here’s what it looks like on the car







When I drove it without the silencer, it was a little on the loud side so, I put it in. It sounds really good, but I notice the power loss Mid-High range, but mostly the sound at WOT. With it out, when the IAB’s open up and VTEC hits it sounds like a rocket. I propose a device to slide the silencer out at a determined moment like WOT and above a certain RPM (maybe right before IAB’s open up or with them) I think It would sound bad as hell if at WOT it sounded like 0---3500 (silencer slides out) --- 4200 (IAB’s open up) ---5 something or other I forget (VTEC engages). Here’s a drawing I made quick

Not to scale Doesn't need to slide out that much maybe like 1 1/2 - 2 inches

This is where I need some input. I was thinking of having three metal pieces, two just used as guides fashioned to the muffler via holes drilled in tip. One bracket (the bottom bracket holds the silencer and acts as the slide, with an actuator or solenoid. I’m leaning towards a solenoid because I think a actuator might be too slow for my taste, but a solenoid might have too much power. What do you guys think? Here are my main issues.

- What to use for the movement.
- How to design my slide (keep in mind heat factor)
- Where to get whatever I select (don’t feel like paying 125 from Autoloc)
- for the metal pieces anyone know where maybe I could get something with the contour of the tip

I want to know what you guys think
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Old May 8, 2006 | 06:30 AM
  #2  
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Default Re: I would like your guys input on this project. (Vintech)

If you dont want to spend much you could use a linear actuator from a power door lock kit and mount it on the side of the muffler. I have some extras if you are interested.
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Old May 8, 2006 | 07:25 AM
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Default Re: I would like your guys input on this project. (Vintech)

Here's what you want :
http://www.apexi-usa.com/produ...Num=1

But if I were you I wouldn't bother. No offence but your exhaust will sound like crap no matter what you put on the end of it. No cat + no resonator + sorry excuse for a muffler = ricey goodness. Everyone thinks their straight through exhaust sounds deep and throaty but it doesn't. It sounds high pitched and raspy. I know from personal experience (I went through that phase too) that it does sound half-way decent from inside the car but from the outside it's a whole different story. Get a friend to drive your car while you stand and watch. It's just a sad fact of life that Hondas sound like total crap on the exhaust side.

I'm not trying to insult you or anything, just trying to save you trouble and money. I don't know about the cops where you live but around here that setup would be asking for trouble, even with the silencer in. I say keep the silencer you have now until you get tired of the noise and unwanted attention and then put your money towards a real exhaust system (cat, resonator, real muffler). Whatever you do your not gaining much power so you might as well not sound like an angry Chubaka.
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Old May 8, 2006 | 08:36 AM
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Default Re: I would like your guys input on this project. (Jamez)

this thread is dumb. you cant have the best or both worlds, sorry. there is no way yer gonna get this thing to work how u want it to, and even if you do, its not like the car will make power.

oh and Jamez, my exhaust consists of a 3" pipe off my turbo exiting out the back of the car. no cat, no res, no muffler. and EVERYONE tells me how good it sounds, so STFU
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Old May 8, 2006 | 09:37 AM
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Default Re: I would like your guys input on this project. (Jamez)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jamez &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I'm not trying to insult you or anything, just trying to save you trouble and money. I don't know about the cops where you live but around here that setup would be asking for trouble, even with the silencer in. I say keep the silencer you have now until you get tired of the noise and unwanted attention and then put your money towards a real exhaust system (cat, resonator, real muffler). Whatever you do your not gaining much power so you might as well not sound like an angry Chubaka.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i agree that this is too much trouble.cops are going to notice that there's no muffler at all at the back of the car,and harass you.it's also going to be hard to keep an exhaust that short,with that little of a muffler quiet at all.
i say save up to get a full exhaust.it doesn't have to be expensive either.you could even use the piping you have,and buy a regular looking oval body muffler.no tip,no C/F,no bling.people don't want to steal what looks to be stock.it will control sound better than a small body round muffler,attract less attention from the cops,etc....at the other end of the scale,for around $200-$250,you can buy every component needed to build a full exhaust just like you want.figure extra for labor if you can't weld.either way,it's still way cheaper than any aftermarket exhaust,and a lot less ricey.

chris
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Old May 8, 2006 | 09:46 AM
  #6  
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Default Re: I would like your guys input on this project. (Vintech)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by trecool44 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you dont want to spend much you could use a linear actuator from a power door lock kit and mount it on the side of the muffler. I have some extras if you are interested.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Whats the size like? do you have some pics?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jamez &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Here's what you want :
http://www.apexi-usa.com/produ...Num=1

But if I were you I wouldn't bother. No offence but your exhaust will sound like crap no matter what you put on the end of it. No cat + no resonator + sorry excuse for a muffler = ricey goodness. Everyone thinks their straight through exhaust sounds deep and throaty but it doesn't. It sounds high pitched and raspy. I know from personal experience (I went through that phase too) that it does sound half-way decent from inside the car but from the outside it's a whole different story. Get a friend to drive your car while you stand and watch. It's just a sad fact of life that Hondas sound like total crap on the exhaust side.

I'm not trying to insult you or anything, just trying to save you trouble and money. I don't know about the cops where you live but around here that setup would be asking for trouble, even with the silencer in. I say keep the silencer you have now until you get tired of the noise and unwanted attention and then put your money towards a real exhaust system (cat, resonator, real muffler). Whatever you do your not gaining much power so you might as well not sound like an angry Chubaka.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I've looked into that product. It's alright, but forget that I would like to make my own. It sounds great actually from mid to high, I was surprised and I have heard it from outside the car also. I do on planing to get an exhaust after I can scrape together $700. I've gone through my rice period like everyone. Projector Halo's, Crome muffler tip, painted drums, i've walked with the devil.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by I Have an STD &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">this thread is dumb. you cant have the best or both worlds, sorry. there is no way yer gonna get this thing to work how u want it to, and even if you do, its not like the car will make power.

oh and Jamez, my exhaust consists of a 3" pipe off my turbo exiting out the back of the car. no cat, no res, no muffler. and EVERYONE tells me how good it sounds, so STFU</TD></TR></TABLE>

No not really you are dumb. If you ran the world we would never have gotten VTEC (best of both worlds, two cams in one, think about it)

In the end the world is all perspective. Everyone has their opinion on what exhaust sounds the best. Muscle cars sound like they are gonna die at idle, I hate it , most people love it. If anyone would like to give some <U>Technical input</U> that would be nice.
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Old May 8, 2006 | 09:59 AM
  #7  
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Default Re: I would like your guys input on this project. (Vintech)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Vintech &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I do on planing to get an exhaust after I can scrape together $700.


If anyone would like to give some <U>Technical input</U> that would be nice.</TD></TR></TABLE>
what do you need $700 for?!the average price i charge to build and install a full 3" exhaust from downpipe to tailpipe is around around $350,less for 2.25" or 2.5".that includes labor too,figure about $100 less if you can do the labor yourself or have a hookup.you can make something just as well built,that makes as much power,that sounds as good(or better) and that looks as good(or better)than any aftermarket exhaust out there.

what kind of technical input would you like?in relation to your idea on the variable muffler?an actuator,mounted to the outside of the can,attached to the silencer.maybe activated by an RPM switch to open.you'd probably have to build some kind of "cage" for the silencer to slide out into to keep it aligned to slide back in properly.
i still say it's way too much trouble.for the price you'll pay for the necessary electronics,and the materials and fab labor,you could probably buy a new,stealthier muffler and piping to put it back in the stock location.it would be quiet,and you wouldn't catch any hell from cops or haters over it.
Chris
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Old May 8, 2006 | 10:25 AM
  #8  
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Default Re: I would like your guys input on this project. (TeamNextGenChris)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TeamNextGenChris &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what do you need $700 for?!the average price i charge to build and install a full 3" exhaust from downpipe to tailpipe is around around $350,less for 2.25" or 2.5".that includes labor too,figure about $100 less if you can do the labor yourself or have a hookup.you can make something just as well built,that makes as much power,that sounds as good(or better) and that looks as good(or better)than any aftermarket exhaust out there.

what kind of technical input would you like?in relation to your idea on the variable muffler?an actuator,mounted to the outside of the can,attached to the silencer.maybe activated by an RPM switch to open.you'd probably have to build some kind of "cage" for the silencer to slide out into to keep it aligned to slide back in properly.
i still say it's way too much trouble.for the price you'll pay for the necessary electronics,and the materials and fab labor,you could probably buy a new,stealthier muffler and piping to put it back in the stock location.it would be quiet,and you wouldn't catch any hell from cops or haters over it.
Chris</TD></TR></TABLE>

I planned on doing that, I have the pipe bent up which was copied from a RSR exhaust (not the stock looking one). I don't have a welder and the brakcets would require alot of welding and mock up time. The Apexi, Tanabe, etc. they all run 450-650, take 600 + throw in omni test pipe 80 + shipping = round about the 700 neighborhood. It's more of a show thing than a functional.

For technical input I was thinking more along the lines of
- Slide design, simple is better
- Electronics. relays and switches, If someone knows how I can build a circuit to interpert rpms and make it adjustable (potentiometer) or standard (certain resistor) or even a IC chip with a little program.

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Old May 8, 2006 | 10:27 AM
  #9  
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From: Lac des Loups, Qc, Canada
Default Re: I would like your guys input on this project. (I Have an STD)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by I Have an STD &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

oh and Jamez, my exhaust consists of a 3" pipe off my turbo exiting out the back of the car. no cat, no res, no muffler. and EVERYONE tells me how good it sounds, so STFU</TD></TR></TABLE>

Either your a one in a million exception or everyone you know is a ricer. Hum... I wonder which is more likely?
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Old May 8, 2006 | 11:10 AM
  #10  
I Have an STD's Avatar
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Default Re: I would like your guys input on this project. (Jamez)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jamez &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Either your a one in a million exception or everyone you know is a ricer. Hum... I wonder which is more likely?</TD></TR></TABLE>

hmmm. all of my friends make power. we care much more about how much power an exhaust will make, than how it sounds. mine happens to sound really good. so do me a favor, before you call me a ricer, know what u are taking about.

this thread is dumb. why would u want to insert and uninsert this stupid silencer? just buy a remote cutout and call it a day.

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Old May 8, 2006 | 02:04 PM
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Default Re: I would like your guys input on this project. (I Have an STD)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by I Have an STD &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hmmm. all of my friends make power. we care much more about how much power an exhaust will make, than how it sounds. mine happens to sound really good. so do me a favor, before you call me a ricer, know what u are taking about.

this thread is dumb. why would u want to insert and uninsert this stupid silencer? just buy a remote cutout and call it a day.</TD></TR></TABLE>

You and all your friends make power?, what do you have to add it all together to get past 300.

It's simpler this way than, putting in one of those. plus my way makes my exhaust not have to make 45 - 90 degree turn
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Old May 8, 2006 | 02:42 PM
  #12  
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Default Re: I would like your guys input on this project. (Vintech)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Vintech &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">For technical input I was thinking more along the lines of
- Slide design, simple is better
- Electronics. relays and switches, If someone knows how I can build a circuit to interpert rpms and make it adjustable (potentiometer) or standard (certain resistor) or even a IC chip with a little program. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Run a relay off of your VTEC solenoid wire.

Why bother if you're just going to get a new exhaust at some point? Its way more trouble than its worth.
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