is it really worth it to buy standard comp. aftermarket valves, is there really a difference other than i guess being stronger? My 2nd question is if i were to get aftermarket dual valve springs and retainers with oem valves would i be ok revving to like 9 or more?

 

really depends on what your going for with the engine. if your just doing a simple all motor build then stock vavles will be fine for the most part. if your going to turbo or spray the **** out of it, then soem nicer aftermarket vlaves can probalby deal with the heat better.

you can rev to 9k all you want, but will you make power there? and will ur bottom end blow up?

 

another thing would it be better to get aftermarket springs and retainers probably right cuz i want some nice cams in the future well i plan on doing a gsr block with gsr crank gsr rods and pct pistons with a b16 head with valve springs and retainers which is gonna be about 12:1 comp. how could i reinforce the block to make sure it doesnt blow at 9 or is my set up alright for that i dont really plan on revving higher than 9 but it all depends if my motor will still make power at that high like you said but thanks on the feedback keep it coming

 

ARP rod bolts, Main Studs, Linehoned and balanced bottom end willhelp with your set up. Installing a block guard before boring your block will also help it hold up at high rpm.

Are you just trying to rev to 9k to be cool or do you have cams that make power up there?

Before they had aftermarket valves there were guys running to 10k in race motors all day on ITR valves.

Non flat face valves will be lighter and not as rough on your valve train allowing for lower spring pressures to make everything more durable.

 

if you want to rev to 9 k or more your best bet is to call underdog industries and get a ricomatic performance head made up. and also fasten evrything with arp and take drift for jesus's advice with a line hone. besides 9k is only cool with wicked cams and a 4.9 final

 

im not revving to 9 just to be cool im just putting it out there incase i do make power around there, already got arp head studs. is linehoned a type of honing? i had a b16 in my crx with a spoon ecu with 8600 rev limit and i wouldnt take it that far but sometimes i wouldnt notice but would make power up till then block and head was stock and s1 tranny

 

From now on, everytime I personally build a motor or any of my friends build a motor, we will replace the valves. My roomate had his ls/vtec running for less than a month a this is what happened: https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1412499

This was on a first gen b16 head, but still...you never know how many miles are on those valves and valvetrain. Like DonF said, think of it as everytime that valves popps open and slams shut it's like torquing a bolt down really really tight. Eventually somethings got to give. And with aftermarket valves only costing a couple hundered bucks, you might as well.....better than losing a couple grand to a dropped valve/cracked sleeve/busted up piston.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by clean rice &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> And with aftermarket valves only costing a couple hundered bucks, you might as well.....better than losing a couple grand to a dropped valve/cracked sleeve/busted up piston.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Or at least replace the original valves with new OEM valves. Whatever works for you.

 

so do they sell oem valves at discount auto parts and it would be better to get type r valves while im at it right

 

ITR exhaust valves are the same as b16. intakes are very different, under cut stems, shaved down face to lighten them and radius back side.

'supposedly' when they built the ITR they credited the lighter valves to helping raise the rpm limit an extra 200rpm...

 

line honing is the process of bolting down your main caps (preferably with ARP studs) and then passing a hone through it to make it perfectly round. Provides a tighter and perfect fit for bearings helping to hold the bearing in place.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mymeatb18" &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so do they sell oem valves at discount auto parts and it would be better to get type r valves while im at it right </TD></TR></TABLE>

I wouldn't buy some cheap oem replacement. Seriously guy, we're only talkin maybe 200 bucks here....don't wussy out on it.