nlr ams 1000 help
ok here's what im trying to figure out if anyone has ran this yet... i want to run the time based boost... but how should i wire it up so i can ativate it... read the directions for it over and over and still can figure out how i should do it
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tony1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Do you have a button to activate your two step?</TD></TR></TABLE>
lol, who uses buttons anymore?
lol, who uses buttons anymore?
i wired mine on a switch to arm it...........then ran it off the 2 step button like tony said.
i havnt used it yet other than playing with it for a few seconds in the car....but this thing seems really cool.
are you running c02 or manifold pressure to the top of the gate?
i havnt used it yet other than playing with it for a few seconds in the car....but this thing seems really cool.
are you running c02 or manifold pressure to the top of the gate?
yes i have a button for my 2 step and joe im not a baller yet im running manifold pressure for now...
sorry for being so stupid with this switch wiring is not a strenght of mine haha
sorry for being so stupid with this switch wiring is not a strenght of mine haha
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yea im running manifold pressure now as well.....i ran everything though so that if i need to run c02 it will take 10 min. to install it. mine was just that much more fun to plumb with 2 wastegates haha.
yea if im understanding it correctly when you activate the 2 step it resets the time base...and once you let go of the 2 step button it goes through the program. so after you do your burn out.......at the line on the 2 step the timer goes to zero...and once you release the button it starts counting the time and changing the boost however the hell you want
i havnt gone to sleep since monday so i could be way the hell off haha
i havnt gone to sleep since monday so i could be way the hell off haha
well if thats the case then that easy...... from what i thought i was reading 12 volt mean its runing thru the program but ill see once i get everything goin i guess.... you making etown this weekend?
im trying my best to make it there. i dont think i can go any lo nger with out sleep..so im going to sleep for a few hours and see how things go tomarrow. u going out?
i might come up sunday depending on how far i get on the car was goin to work on it today but fell asleep when i got home from work last night killed me working till 4am is having to go to work at 6 am haha
I used my two step for the clutch active signal which engages the launch mode and target psi. The activation signal I put on a solo switch which I switch on right before I stage. Its ignored while the clutch activation signal is on.Then let go of two step and bam your time maps begin. I think were gonna mount it on the back of the car so Dave can activate for now on. One less thing I don't have to do.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by buck02 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i run this unit its super so far so precise
</TD></TR></TABLE>
You should have seen Buck wiring the thing up..... (Buck hates wiring) He wired the complete unit by himself.... I was amazed
lol
</TD></TR></TABLE>
You should have seen Buck wiring the thing up..... (Buck hates wiring) He wired the complete unit by himself.... I was amazed
lol
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2.0Coupe »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I used my two step for the clutch active signal which engages the launch mode and target psi. The activation signal I put on a solo switch which I switch on right before I stage. Its ignored while the clutch activation signal is on.Then let go of two step and bam your time maps begin. I think were gonna mount it on the back of the car so Dave can activate for now on. One less thing I don't have to do.</TD></TR></TABLE>
so i want to use a switch not a button???
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jpenman50 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
You should have seen Buck wiring the thing up..... (Buck hates wiring) He wired the complete unit by himself.... I was amazed
lol</TD></TR></TABLE>
haha i ******* hate wiring i mean i could pull my motor in 30 mins easy but to wire this thing up its goin to take 4-5 hours haha
also im use to manual boost controllers is there a way that i can set this thing for one boost level.. like for street driving and dyno?
so i want to use a switch not a button???
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jpenman50 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
You should have seen Buck wiring the thing up..... (Buck hates wiring) He wired the complete unit by himself.... I was amazed
lol</TD></TR></TABLE>
haha i ******* hate wiring i mean i could pull my motor in 30 mins easy but to wire this thing up its goin to take 4-5 hours haha
also im use to manual boost controllers is there a way that i can set this thing for one boost level.. like for street driving and dyno?
Hi Guys,
the #1 terminal is the activation input. This terminal needs to see 12 volts to start the control. If there is no 12 volts on the terminal it allows you to program the controller. So ..to make it easy for you. 12 volts applied to the terminal= run mode. No 12 volts = program mode.
There are many ways this can be accomplished...most popular is to install a switch in the car that can be used to supply power to the terminal and remove it. You can grab this power from any switched 12 volt source . The input will say ON(on the screen rght next to the terminal) when 12 volts is present and the solenoids will pulse if there are values in the program.
You can connect the clutch input with the same wire that is used for the 2 step. Just make sure you configure that input for the right polarity. Most systems use a 12 volt signal to activate the 2 step function, just check to make sure.
You will also want to make sure you go into the options menu and confgure the (clutch reset) to the on position. This will tell the controller that anytime the clutch input is turned on to reset the timers and be ready to run the the program when it is released.
Process:
Do your burnout
flip the ACTIVATION switch on! -the controller will start running thru its program..this is okay.
Stage..hit your two step button...controller will reset the program and timers and will wait for you to release the input at which point it will begin boost control.
ENd of pass turn activation switch off before you turn main power off to the controller to save logged data to memeory. Dont worry about it if you dont care about the control data. Data must be erased in order to record again.
If you want to use the data function it will start recording the minute the activation switch is armed. You have 35 seconds of data log memory.
Another option.
If you have an engine management system, look for an output that you can configure based on a tps threshold. You can set it to turn the output on at a tps of 80 % and up. You will want to have this output deliver 12 volts to the activation input. You can use a relay if needed to do this as some efi systems can only switch a ground. Now you dont need to have a switch as your tps will act as it.
The 2.0 software has a hold and wait function that can be turned on. If you set this to a value of 5 seconds the controller will freeze the program where its at IF the 12 volt source is removed from the activation input. It will resume boost control and continue on from where it was when 12 volts is reapplied with in the 5 seconds< can be programmed for more.
This feature is great for finite control on time based applications. Ill give you an example.
You leave the line and in 2nd gear it spins really bad so you lift. Lets assume you had the efi system set to turn the out put on at anything above 80 % tps and off below it. You lift and tps goes under 80%, the controller will hold and wait for you to get back into the window before it continues. Its there if you need it.
hope this helps...You have the best boost controller available!
seb/NLR
the #1 terminal is the activation input. This terminal needs to see 12 volts to start the control. If there is no 12 volts on the terminal it allows you to program the controller. So ..to make it easy for you. 12 volts applied to the terminal= run mode. No 12 volts = program mode.
There are many ways this can be accomplished...most popular is to install a switch in the car that can be used to supply power to the terminal and remove it. You can grab this power from any switched 12 volt source . The input will say ON(on the screen rght next to the terminal) when 12 volts is present and the solenoids will pulse if there are values in the program.
You can connect the clutch input with the same wire that is used for the 2 step. Just make sure you configure that input for the right polarity. Most systems use a 12 volt signal to activate the 2 step function, just check to make sure.
You will also want to make sure you go into the options menu and confgure the (clutch reset) to the on position. This will tell the controller that anytime the clutch input is turned on to reset the timers and be ready to run the the program when it is released.
Process:
Do your burnout
flip the ACTIVATION switch on! -the controller will start running thru its program..this is okay.
Stage..hit your two step button...controller will reset the program and timers and will wait for you to release the input at which point it will begin boost control.
ENd of pass turn activation switch off before you turn main power off to the controller to save logged data to memeory. Dont worry about it if you dont care about the control data. Data must be erased in order to record again.
If you want to use the data function it will start recording the minute the activation switch is armed. You have 35 seconds of data log memory.
Another option.
If you have an engine management system, look for an output that you can configure based on a tps threshold. You can set it to turn the output on at a tps of 80 % and up. You will want to have this output deliver 12 volts to the activation input. You can use a relay if needed to do this as some efi systems can only switch a ground. Now you dont need to have a switch as your tps will act as it.
The 2.0 software has a hold and wait function that can be turned on. If you set this to a value of 5 seconds the controller will freeze the program where its at IF the 12 volt source is removed from the activation input. It will resume boost control and continue on from where it was when 12 volts is reapplied with in the 5 seconds< can be programmed for more.
This feature is great for finite control on time based applications. Ill give you an example.
You leave the line and in 2nd gear it spins really bad so you lift. Lets assume you had the efi system set to turn the out put on at anything above 80 % tps and off below it. You lift and tps goes under 80%, the controller will hold and wait for you to get back into the window before it continues. Its there if you need it.
hope this helps...You have the best boost controller available!
seb/NLR
also im use to manual boost controllers is there a way that i can set this thing for one boost level.. like for street driving and dyno?
you can do it thru the software and creat 1 stage or as I usually set them up, use the scramble input. You can wire it to a momentary button or a switch. Activation power does not need to be on for the scramble, reduce or launch pressure. Program for the amount you want on the gate and flip the switch, or button and it will apply it to the gate.
you can do it thru the software and creat 1 stage or as I usually set them up, use the scramble input. You can wire it to a momentary button or a switch. Activation power does not need to be on for the scramble, reduce or launch pressure. Program for the amount you want on the gate and flip the switch, or button and it will apply it to the gate.
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