i just want to know if that a good swap. b20b vtec, lsd tranny, stage 2 clutch and the basic bots-on. would that be reliable and fast?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by E.G.sAvAgE &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i just want to know if that a good swap. b20b vtec, lsd tranny, stage 2 clutch and the basic bots-on. would that be reliable and fast?</TD></TR></TABLE>

No. Upon ignition, the pistons will meet the valves in an extremely violent fashion, causing the rod bearings to literally break into pieces. In addition, the cam gears will snap off, shredding the timing belt and sending the crank pulley into the drivers side CV boot. I wouldn't recommend it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BauleyCivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

No. Upon ignition, the pistons will meet the valves in an extremely violent fashion, causing the rod bearings to literally break into pieces. In addition, the cam gears will snap off, shredding the timing belt and sending the crank pulley into the drivers side CV boot. I wouldn't recommend it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Haha. Yes it is a proven combination.

 

Depends on how much money you have and how it's built/who built it.

 

thank u for your comment that really help me, if you know a unqiue swap for a eg please tell me.

 

are you really serious about this happening my frien has been driving his for like a year and half now no problem so far

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BauleyCivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

No. Upon ignition, the pistons will meet the valves in an extremely violent fashion, causing the rod bearings to literally break into pieces. In addition, the cam gears will snap off, shredding the timing belt and sending the crank pulley into the drivers side CV boot. I wouldn't recommend it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

very untrue. but it all depends on the tunner

 

It depends, and its been covered, and anytime you mention LS/Vtec and reliability an argument starts.

If you do things RIGHT, they will last. If you're not sure if you're capable of it, you're better off just getting a GSR/ITR swap and bolt ons.

 

Everybody always mentions doing things right. Why not just state what the right thing to do is?

 

these b20vtec motor have alot of potencial for a stock motor.....i use to have one and i love it.......just get it tune right and there shouldn't be a Problem.......but i preferr using a b16 head instead of GSR head.......why?? because ive seen alot of blown b20vtec with gsr heads.......

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PhatBoy5015 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Haha. Yes it is a proven combination. </TD></TR></TABLE>

For sure it's a proven combination...here's my 'modest' B20 VTEC build...i'm using a Portflow GSR head. It was running on a chipped P28 mugen program when this graph was taken along with: stock prelude injectors, stock DX fuel pump and socal 91 octane pump gas. Also, I don't think the cylinder head has anything to do with blown up B20 VTEC setups...those engine builders suck *** most likely

Motor has like 150 passes on the dyno and 10-20 passes on the track (IDRC Palmdale and CMI Sacramento)



Shameless plug for Eugene at Prostreet Import y0!!

 

Are we having a bad day?

(getting tired of people not searching or asking n00b questions, I know)


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BauleyCivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

No. Upon ignition, the pistons will meet the valves in an extremely violent fashion, causing the rod bearings to literally break into pieces. In addition, the cam gears will snap off, shredding the timing belt and sending the crank pulley into the drivers side CV boot. I wouldn't recommend it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

Cool. I for one don't know what goes into a "properly" built b20. What are you guys referring to?

Making sure the head and block aren't warped?

 

it all depends on who builds your b20 vtec and how hard you beat on it

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by -Gambit- &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">it all depends on who builds your b20 vtec and how hard you beat on it</TD></TR></TABLE>

x2

 

What does it matter? A reliable reliable setup is a reliable setup. The only thing that would change is the power band, depending on application.

What goes into a properly built B20/Vtec setup?

 

yes it can be reliable. ive seen a crv/vtec (turbo) put out 675 hp and 455 tq

 

its been running for a year so far

 

My question remains unanswered. I know that the B20 isn't built to rev, and it has a horrible r/s ratio.

Is a properly built motor sleeved with forged internals?