Lock-Tight (Thread locker) on the engine mount
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Joined: Nov 2005
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From: Scarborough, ON, Canada
Lock-Tight (Thread locker) on engine mount
I am doing my timing belt – and I never done this my self – so it is my first time;
Now I got my bad boy Crank Pulley bolt loose – and removed everything except engine mount – oh man – almost home free – guess what I can’t remove one of my engine mount nut – it’s so tight
Here is what I use impact socket, hammer (small to very large), chisel – nothing work then went Home Depot and took the cheapest Grinder – then shaved half of the nut then use the chisel – finally nut came loose – Thank God.
Removed the driver’s side engine mount – last time T/B done by my dealer and they use lock-tight I can see that Red compound.
Tomorrow I’ll have to find a 17mm Nut.
Question is: do you know why dealer or Honda Factory Installation use thread locker?
And do I have to use thread locker on my engine mount?
Now I got my bad boy Crank Pulley bolt loose – and removed everything except engine mount – oh man – almost home free – guess what I can’t remove one of my engine mount nut – it’s so tight
Here is what I use impact socket, hammer (small to very large), chisel – nothing work then went Home Depot and took the cheapest Grinder – then shaved half of the nut then use the chisel – finally nut came loose – Thank God.
Removed the driver’s side engine mount – last time T/B done by my dealer and they use lock-tight I can see that Red compound.
Tomorrow I’ll have to find a 17mm Nut.
Question is: do you know why dealer or Honda Factory Installation use thread locker?
And do I have to use thread locker on my engine mount?
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 276
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From: COUNTY JAIL, usa
Re: Lock-Tight (Thread locker) on engine mount (ujhonda)
i cannot believe that they used lock tight,, MEAT HEADS ....
No you DO NOT need to use LOCK TIGHT .. i have done hundreds of t-belts and never used lock tight on any of the bolts ,, not a single 1 has come lose,, just make sure you tighten them properly ,,
No you DO NOT need to use LOCK TIGHT .. i have done hundreds of t-belts and never used lock tight on any of the bolts ,, not a single 1 has come lose,, just make sure you tighten them properly ,,
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Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 5,084
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From: Richmond, Va
I ALWAYS put Honda thread lock on the crank pulley bolts. We had a big rash of them last summer come back loose or gone from other shops. But using it on a mount bolt is crazy. There is no need for that.
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From: somewhere in MI
Re: (MooGoCow3)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MooGoCow3 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I ALWAYS put Honda thread lock on the crank pulley bolts.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Really? I wouldn't want to be the next person to remove that bolt after putting any kind of thread lock on there. They can be hard enough as is.
Maybe the ones that came loose, the shops just didn't tighten them down properly.
Really? I wouldn't want to be the next person to remove that bolt after putting any kind of thread lock on there. They can be hard enough as is.
Maybe the ones that came loose, the shops just didn't tighten them down properly.
Joined: Mar 2006
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From: COUNTY JAIL, usa
Re: (TouringAccord)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TouringAccord »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Really? I wouldn't want to be the next person to remove that bolt after putting any kind of thread lock on there. They can be hard enough as is.
Maybe the ones that came loose, the shops just didn't tighten them down properly.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i agree with touring..
I have never used lock-tight on cranck bolt as a matter of facts i put a bit of anti-seize on it and have never had 1 come loose .. man i feel for the next person that has to remove it, if it has lock tight on bolt,,
Really? I wouldn't want to be the next person to remove that bolt after putting any kind of thread lock on there. They can be hard enough as is.
Maybe the ones that came loose, the shops just didn't tighten them down properly.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i agree with touring..
I have never used lock-tight on cranck bolt as a matter of facts i put a bit of anti-seize on it and have never had 1 come loose .. man i feel for the next person that has to remove it, if it has lock tight on bolt,,
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Joined: Mar 2004
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From: Richmond, Va
Re: (accord-pro)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by accord-pro »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i agree with touring..
I have never used lock-tight on cranck bolt as a matter of facts i put a bit of anti-seize on it and have never had 1 come loose .. man i feel for the next person that has to remove it, if it has lock tight on bolt,,</TD></TR></TABLE>
That's why I have a mean 1/2 impact and 200psi of air pressure. Takes them off every time.
Even if it doesn't I could just use the crank holder tool and a 19 / 17MM with a long snap-on and a cheater bar.
Not that i'm trying to make ity hard for the next guy it's more C.Y.A
Edit: edited for end of the day ignorance
Modified by MooGoCow3 at 6:50 PM 5/1/2006
I have never used lock-tight on cranck bolt as a matter of facts i put a bit of anti-seize on it and have never had 1 come loose .. man i feel for the next person that has to remove it, if it has lock tight on bolt,,</TD></TR></TABLE>
That's why I have a mean 1/2 impact and 200psi of air pressure. Takes them off every time.
Even if it doesn't I could just use the crank holder tool and a 19 / 17MM with a long snap-on and a cheater bar.
Not that i'm trying to make ity hard for the next guy it's more C.Y.A
Edit: edited for end of the day ignorance
Modified by MooGoCow3 at 6:50 PM 5/1/2006
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From: somewhere in MI
Re: (MooGoCow3)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MooGoCow3 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That's why I have a mean 1/4 impact and 200psi of air pressure. Takes them off every time.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I assume you mean either 1/2 or 3/4, not 1/4.
I assume you mean either 1/2 or 3/4, not 1/4.
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Joined: Mar 2004
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From: Richmond, Va
Re: (TouringAccord)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TouringAccord »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I assume you mean either 1/2 or 3/4, not 1/4. </TD></TR></TABLE>
good call. I guess i was eager to go home.
</TD></TR></TABLE>good call. I guess i was eager to go home.
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Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 486
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From: Portland, OR, USA
Re: Lock-Tight (HONCORD)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HONCORD »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Man!!!! I should put lock tight on my lug nuts and oil drain plug. lol.</TD></TR></TABLE>
yea, it'd be funny seeing thieves try to jack your rims with loc-tite on every lug, hahaha
yea, it'd be funny seeing thieves try to jack your rims with loc-tite on every lug, hahaha
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From: somewhere in MI
Re: Lock-Tight (HONCORD)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HONCORD »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Man!!!! I should put lock tight on my lug nuts and oil drain plug. lol.</TD></TR></TABLE>
um, ok. I don't see the point of that post... ??
um, ok. I don't see the point of that post... ??
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Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 5,084
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From: Richmond, Va
Re: Lock-Tight (TouringAccord)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TouringAccord »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">um, ok. I don't see the point of that post... ??</TD></TR></TABLE>
No kidding, you guys though it was overkill with thread lock on the crank pulleys!
Invest in a torque wrench man, don't risk getting a lugnut stuck!
No kidding, you guys though it was overkill with thread lock on the crank pulleys!
Invest in a torque wrench man, don't risk getting a lugnut stuck!
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 291
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From: Scarborough, ON, Canada
Re: Lock-Tight (TouringAccord)
OK I did my 1st timing belt job – I replaced, Timing Belt, Balance shaft belt, timing belt Adjuster pulley bearing, water pump, Radiator hoses, power steering belt, AC / Alternator Belt.
On my crank pulley bolt I used little grease, because Helms Manual says to lube the bolt, I hope and pray that bolt will not go crazy. I didn’t have big torque wrench – so I just jump on the breaker bar about 25 times.
But I had one issue, when I replace PCV valve – check engine pop on my dash – then Jumped Data Link Connector and found the code 67=P0420=Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold - thanks YeuEmMaiMai for putting that 6th gen accord faq. Now I know how to read the flashing dashboard.
Now I couldn’t get rid of my check engine warning and check my after market CAT, yes its RED HOT - I turn off the car immediately and put back the Old PCV Valve then reset the ECU no more check engine.
I used OEM PCV valve – do you think that is defective? Or my After Market CAT is bad? If my CAT is bad then why it’s work with Old PCV valve without any error codes?
Everything works (except new PCV Valve) just like brand spanking new. And I already drove the car around 275KMs.
I would like to thank GOD and everyone on HondaTech.com
Specially following people:
TouringAccord
Chiovnidca
Beach Accord
YeuEmMaiMai
Helms Manual
Without your input I will not do that crazy timing Job. My whole body is sore, just like played football for 16hours (this includes locktite engine mount removal as well).
On my crank pulley bolt I used little grease, because Helms Manual says to lube the bolt, I hope and pray that bolt will not go crazy. I didn’t have big torque wrench – so I just jump on the breaker bar about 25 times.
But I had one issue, when I replace PCV valve – check engine pop on my dash – then Jumped Data Link Connector and found the code 67=P0420=Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold - thanks YeuEmMaiMai for putting that 6th gen accord faq. Now I know how to read the flashing dashboard.
Now I couldn’t get rid of my check engine warning and check my after market CAT, yes its RED HOT - I turn off the car immediately and put back the Old PCV Valve then reset the ECU no more check engine.
I used OEM PCV valve – do you think that is defective? Or my After Market CAT is bad? If my CAT is bad then why it’s work with Old PCV valve without any error codes?
Everything works (except new PCV Valve) just like brand spanking new. And I already drove the car around 275KMs.
I would like to thank GOD and everyone on HondaTech.com
Specially following people:
TouringAccord
Chiovnidca
Beach Accord
YeuEmMaiMai
Helms Manual
Without your input I will not do that crazy timing Job. My whole body is sore, just like played football for 16hours (this includes locktite engine mount removal as well).
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