Here is my situation Honda-Tech.

I have a cable 89 CRX Si tranny attached to a CM S2 clutch and lightweight flywheel to a z6 engine.

I just put all this in this morning, and went for a test drive. Sometimes the car will not go into 1st gear, and will not go into reverse at all with the car on.

Once moving I can shift through the gears, but they are harder to shift into than normal. From a stop when I put it in first, I have to hold the brakes because the car will slightly roll.

I have tried to tighten and loosen the clutch cable, but that did not fix it.


Does anyone have any experience with this? Thanks

 

just 1st and reverse? how about the other gears can you shift into them?

make sure the clutch is the right model.
the throw out bearing is installed propertly?
make sure you have oil AND the right oil (thick oil not allow you to go into gear)

and is the clutch pressure plate torqued propertly?!

a friend of mine did a clutch job on his Ek with b20 and didnt torch down the clutch pressure plate propertly and that caused the clutch not to fully disengage.

 

Can 89-00 d-series clutch differ?

I know the throw-out bearing is in right.

Oil is correct also.

I did not use a torque wrench on the PP, but I did the same routine that I always do when I put a new one on, and that always worked before.

 

it doesnt matter what clutch you use as long as it matches the flywheel. when i had my stock motor i went throught 4 diff clutches before getting the right one and that was in an 89 si. i think they changed them in the middle of the year.

 

Well there are bigger clutches and flywheels, but I already know this and mine match up to each other(both being the larger size).

What I was hoping for was somebody having this same problem so I would know what to do first before I go rip everything apart again.

Thanks


Modified by driveahonda at 5:39 PM 5/1/2006

 

UPDATE:

If I push the clutch pedal down about 3/4, the car will not move. But if I push it down to the ground, the car will begin to move.

Anybody know what the hell is going on?

 

free bump for you!

 

I know you said you played with the clutch cable..

But, tighten it.. Once slack is gone, give it a few more turns. Give that a try..?

Sounds like you did everything properly. I always use loctite on my PP bolts.

 

I will try to tighten it with some pliers tommorow.

But I had someone stand on top of my motor and pull up on the clutch cable to get all the slack out while I tightened the nut. I will go after it again tommorow and updatE again. Hopefully it will fix it. Thanks


Modified by driveahonda at 6:55 PM 5/1/2006

 

I think you may have the opposite problem and may have over tightened the cable.
You should have about 2" of free play at the top of your pedal travel.

Loosen the cable don't tighten it and then see what happens

 

I have tried that too, but I will try again.

 

 

ok. this is your situation

go into the clutch again, check everything from the throwout bearing, to the flywheel and pressure plate bolts.

your problem is when you turn on your car the pressure plate is engauging and when you try to shift the pressure plate wont let you disengauge the pressure from the disc and plate resulting in almost non existing shifts or very very hard

this is resulting in one of 2 things and one of 2 things only, the clutch or the clutch cable

the clutch could be installed wrong or sumthnig happened when installing that is causing this problem

or the cluth cables do wear out over time and your clutch cable could be excessively stretched


basicly if you go with this problem for a long period of time your clutch will have excessive wear very quickly and your transmission could have damages caused by thhis problem

i would know i had the exact same problem..

when off the car would go into every single gear
when on the car would be very hard to go into first or any gear for that matter
when trying to put car into gear the car rolls forward or lunges forward on its own without letting out on the clutch pedal
shifter wont go into reverse or grinds when trying to go into reverse.

if those sound anything like your problem go into the clutch ASAFP. if you dont your clutch and transmission could take a hit from not fixing the problem asap

the clutch cable test is a very easy one, if you have to tighten it up toooo much more than normal its your clutch itsself, if you tighten it up and loosen it and it makes no difference in pedal or shift, replace your clutch cable and go into your clutch anyway.

reason for this? tightening up your clutch cable and loosening it up too much will make it stretch out prematurely. and when replacing a clutch on a cable transmission always replace the cable anyway bc these cables arent made to last forever and over time from being used they do stretch out. its not worth taking the chance , a stretched out clutch cable could cause you to do a ton of work that isnt needed if not replaced when doing a new clutch

this will just assure you that it cant be the clutch cable, and make sure to adjust it to factory spec, or if aftermarket where you feel comfortable ....

but my guess is its the clutch even tho it is new sumthing anythnig could have happened, and the only good thing about clutch cable transmission are that if it isnt the clutch cable it only leave the clutch that could be screwed up

unless your transmission was doing this b4 but if not then it is sumthing that has just happened

if this sounds confusing let me know

 

also not torquing down the pressure plate bolts to spec with a aftermarket clutch is a big no no, you definitly need to go back in there and retorque them. having a more aggressive clutch than stock and not torquing the bolts down could result in the bolts backing out and causing a ton of problems.

that is A # 1 on the to do list, retorque the bolts

# 2 check and recheck all bearings

#3 check clutch cable

also you could have torqued the pressure plate tooo tight and it wont let the assembly disengauge..... no matter how many times you have done it wrong before, dont do it again torqing things to spec is a must when doing anything that applies to aftermarket, headgaskets,bolts,nuts ect.

since you didnt torque the bolts down you have to go into the clutch anyway so check and re check and re check and recheck everything


lets do this senario. you fix the problem it was your clutch cable, but you dont go back in and retorque the bolts, and down the road the bolts back out and ruin your transmission. it wont be a pretty ordeal, so fix it now while it is fixable or later you will regret it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!

 

Thanks for all the responses and thank you b18sihatch for the book you wrote me.

I found out last night that it was the cable that was acting up. After playing with it, I can drive just as perfect as before.

Thanks H-T

 

its good that was the problem but you should still go back in and torque those bolts. you are playing god with not torquing those, they could easily back out into your clutch assembly and ruin your clutch setup and transmission. its not worth the risk. but good you got it fixed

 

I am confident that the pressure plate bolts are secure. Its not that they are not "torqued", they are just not at the same settings that are in a manual. But they are in there the same amount of turns and probably about the same torque as the manuals says anyways. (I do the same routine everytime)

But thanks again.