I think my clutch fork is broken (help)
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I think my clutch fork is broken (help)
I was getting on the freeway entrance and when I went to shift out of first it would not go into second third or any gear for that matter. It is showing the same symptons as if i were not to have a clutch. I have an act 6 puck clutch with extreme pressure plate and a fidanza flywheel with about 5k miles on them so I don't think that it is the clutch or pressure plate. also it did not show any symptoms before it happend. I was just wondering what your guys opinions would be. thanks
#6
Re: (boosted_dc2)
TTT I got the same problem!
I have to rev-match every gear, it's nearly impossible to shift after 4,000RPMS!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boosted_dc2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">put in in gear with the car off, and try to start it. be carefull it may jump forward.
Landon</TD></TR></TABLE>
What will that do? - I don't get it.
I have to rev-match every gear, it's nearly impossible to shift after 4,000RPMS!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boosted_dc2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">put in in gear with the car off, and try to start it. be carefull it may jump forward.
Landon</TD></TR></TABLE>
What will that do? - I don't get it.
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Re: I think my clutch fork is broken (spoolineh2)
My friend had the same symptoms...we pulled his tranny out and the clutch was actually stuck to the flywheel....basically burned on. I would venture to say you may have the same problem...especially if it is an UNSPRUNG clutch
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Re: I think my clutch fork is broken (Spoolin18)
ok so i removed my trans the other day and I found that my clutch was good pressure plate appears fine and my clutch fork is in perfect operating condition. I also checked all the hydraulic lines before I removed it and they were also fine. When this happened the clutch did not lose pressure but it had the same pressure all the way from top to bottom. what could this be. How would I go about checking the pressure plate?
#11
Re: I think my clutch fork is broken (Spoolin18)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Spoolin18 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Did you check your throw out bearing?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Beat me to it!!!!!!!
Jon
Beat me to it!!!!!!!
Jon
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Re: I think my clutch fork is broken (shadow103rd)
It is your hydraulic system.
Replace your master cylinder AND slave cylinder and you'll be fine. Upgraded clutches excert more force on the hydro system and the seals will eventually fail. Check on you carpet by your clutch pedal and see if your master cylinder is leaking. Also check inside the engine compartment to see if its leaking on that side. It can also leak past the seal inside and not hold pressure but fluid does not come out.
Trust me, its your hydraulic system. I've replaced mine more than once.
A very expensive alternative is buy a Tilton racing master cylinder system for almost $400 dollars. This replaces your Entire hydraulic system and completly eliminates your slave cylinder.
Replace your master cylinder AND slave cylinder and you'll be fine. Upgraded clutches excert more force on the hydro system and the seals will eventually fail. Check on you carpet by your clutch pedal and see if your master cylinder is leaking. Also check inside the engine compartment to see if its leaking on that side. It can also leak past the seal inside and not hold pressure but fluid does not come out.
Trust me, its your hydraulic system. I've replaced mine more than once.
A very expensive alternative is buy a Tilton racing master cylinder system for almost $400 dollars. This replaces your Entire hydraulic system and completly eliminates your slave cylinder.
#13
Re: I think my clutch fork is broken (mike1114)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mike1114 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It is your hydraulic system.
Replace your master cylinder AND slave cylinder and you'll be fine. Upgraded clutches excert more force on the hydro system and the seals will eventually fail. Check on you carpet by your clutch pedal and see if your master cylinder is leaking. Also check inside the engine compartment to see if its leaking on that side. It can also leak past the seal inside and not hold pressure but fluid does not come out.
Trust me, its your hydraulic system. I've replaced mine more than once.
A very expensive alternative is buy a Tilton racing master cylinder system for almost $400 dollars. This replaces your Entire hydraulic system and completly eliminates your slave cylinder.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Ok, man you're convincing me but one thing doesn't settle well.
If this were the case well then wouldnt the level of my fluid be low?
Cause mine is not.
Replace your master cylinder AND slave cylinder and you'll be fine. Upgraded clutches excert more force on the hydro system and the seals will eventually fail. Check on you carpet by your clutch pedal and see if your master cylinder is leaking. Also check inside the engine compartment to see if its leaking on that side. It can also leak past the seal inside and not hold pressure but fluid does not come out.
Trust me, its your hydraulic system. I've replaced mine more than once.
A very expensive alternative is buy a Tilton racing master cylinder system for almost $400 dollars. This replaces your Entire hydraulic system and completly eliminates your slave cylinder.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Ok, man you're convincing me but one thing doesn't settle well.
If this were the case well then wouldnt the level of my fluid be low?
Cause mine is not.
#14
It may be leaking past a seal internally like a brake master cylinder, when it goes bad it doesnt have to shows signs of leaking externally the seals inside just doesnt hold the hydraulic pressure it needs
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Re: (JDMflavor_EJ)
Like someone said before, fluid just leaks past the seals so the master or slave cannot make enough pressure to push the piston on the slave far enough to disengage clutch, but fluid level will not change cause its not leaking out of the system totally.
Does you throw out bearing sqeak terribly?
You said you can shift when the car is off, wouldn't the bearing give you trouble then too?
Before you go pulling the tranny off, just try the master and slave, if they weren't the problem, no big deal, if they are, much easier to replace then remove/re-install tranny.
Master and slave are almost always the culprit, especially with upgraded clutch.
Does you throw out bearing sqeak terribly?
You said you can shift when the car is off, wouldn't the bearing give you trouble then too?
Before you go pulling the tranny off, just try the master and slave, if they weren't the problem, no big deal, if they are, much easier to replace then remove/re-install tranny.
Master and slave are almost always the culprit, especially with upgraded clutch.
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I was having the same problem. I replaced the master and slave with little success. I took the tranny off and every thing was fine. I took my car to a mechanic and he told me that the fire wall was flexing causing me to lose pedal. I know this sounds stupid but check the bolt in the bracket. I was missing a bolt in the clutch pedal bracket.
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Re: (B18_Civic)
I saw a thread on here once that had a brace for the master cylinder. Had a video of how much the firewall flexed during Auto-X'ing. Pretty interesting.
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Re: (mike1114)
as I said before I have the trans off of the car and the through out bearing is fine I also checked the hydraulic actuater while the car was off and it seemed to work fine however I am going to put it all back together and make sure that everything is to spec and then if that does not work I will know that it is something to do with the hydraaulics. but keep giving me suggestions because the problem is still there.
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