I have a 1994 Prelude that had some starting problems back in 2001. It was weird - I would turn the key, and sometimes it wouldn't start. When it tried to start, the starter turned like a champ, so I figured my battery was fine. Sometimes, it just wouldn't do anything. The dealer back then told me my clutch switch was toast and it keeps your car from starting if the clutch is not engaged. He replaced it and everything was fine... until yesterday. I think it's the same problem. So I figured I would try to tackle this myself, but my Chilton's manual doesn't mention anything about this switch. I did find this pdf:
http://www.eastcoasthonda.org/manual...lutch%20switch'
which mentions two clutch switches (A & B), but I'm not sure if that's the same switch(es) I need to replace. I also found this thread on this forum:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=672477
where doublejz mentions the clutch switch on a 98 Civic. I guess my understanding is correct. I just can't figure out exactly which part I need to go after.
Anyone know what the deal is with these clutch switches and how hard they are to replace? Thanks for any info!

 

Look at the clutch pedal. At the top, there should be a button looking thing. That is the clutch switch. It shouldn't be hard to replace at all, unless you're 341lbs like me.

 

Cool. I'll give it a shot. The car stopped working while I was at work yesterday and I was just feeling around for the switch on the back side of the clutch pedal (barely any light in my work's parking garage). I'm going to see if I can find a flashlight and check the front this time! Thanks!

 

once you press in the clutch, the button is engaged. If that helps any.

 

Yup - just borrowed a flashlight and checked it out. The switch "looks" fine - the button moves freely and all the wires are connected. I guess it could still be bad though. Is there an easy way to bypass this switch so I can be sure that's what the problem is?

Also, I just called a local dealer and they said the switch will take about 5 days to come in. Since the car isn't starting, that's going to seem like a month! Anyone recommend a good OEM Honda parts place that I can probably have this part overnighted? (I guess this won't matter if I can bypass the switch for a while).

 

Switch A is for the cruise control and switch B is for the starting circuit. Switch A closes when the clutch pedal is pressed very slightly to cancel the cruise control. When the clutch pedal is fully depressed, switch B closes to enable the starting circuit.

 

Thanks a million Weather Man!!! I was totally looking at Switch A. It makes sense now that you spelled it out for me. Switch A is activated as soon as the clutch is pressed, whereas Switch B is activated only when the clutch is fully down. So, that is definitely the one I needed to pursue.

I just took the electrical connector off the switch (Switch B). Then I stuck a piece of solder in the connector to connect the two leads together and bent the solder to keep it in place. Stuck the key in and she fired right up!!! So, thanks dude. I am a happy camper now! (Since I can drive myself home from work tonight!)

 

OH - sorry RaceCity_USA! My fault. The thanks for pointing out the different switches goes to you!!!
That was key - if not for that advice, I would have worked on the wrong switch, probably given up, and lost over $100 paying someone else to do this...