the car: 2000 accord, four door, 5spd, 2.3L LEV (F23A1).
I'm out of ideas... and i know this one will take a honda tech to figure out.

first a little background: earlier in the week i swapped the factory installed F23A1 for another F23A1 i bought online from a place called midwestern motors in ohio. the "new" engine looked as if it had been damaged in the removal from the other car at the yard. the damage included a broken dizzy cap (light damage), broken plug for the crank sensor set with some slight striping of the wires in various places, a broken TPS (half of the servo was missing) and it looked as though the cam cover had taken a pretty good hit (enough to dent/crack the cover). the oil pan was also badly dented, but i assume that was from sitting on the pan in transit.

the old engine came out without much ado, and the wiring harness in its entirety stayed with the car, up to the plugs (the actual sensors stayed with the engine). because of the damage i swapped the TB complete with TPS to the new plenum. because of some odd ports/sensor bungs welded into the exhaust manifold i used the old manifold from the original engine. the crank sensor plug was cut off so the old one could be soldered on in its place. in doing this i added perhaps 3 inches to the wires.

the engine is now in but my issue is this: no spark at the coil. i get power in the amount of battery voltage and i have fuel pressure. other symptoms include a fuel pump that seems to run constantly if the key is in the "on" position, a blown coil fuse (#11), a blown coolant fan fuse (20 amp under the hood), and no immobilizer light on my instrument light array (it should light for a few seconds then go out, telling me i have a good key for the ECU). the ECU was never tampered with. ask me questions and i will try to help you help me. thank you for taking the time to read this, and i hope you hold the key to my sanity.

 

did you test the coil?

 

yeah, it's good. puts out a good spark it you ground the ignitor (simulating the ignition signal i would guess). but will not sspark on it's own and I still have no immobilizer light in the cluster at all (i should have a flashing green "key light" for "good" and a solid "key light" for "bad")

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wreckless &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">... I still have no immobilizer light in the cluster at all (i should have a flashing green "key light" for "good" and a solid "key light" for "bad") </TD></TR></TABLE>Sounds like the immobilizer doesn't recognize it's own keys. I think there's something like a ring antenna around the lock cylinder; check connections to that, and wiring from that to the ECU.

 

even if that was never touched?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wreckless &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">a fuel pump that seems to run constantly if the key is in the "on" position</TD></TR></TABLE>
that's interesting. have you checked the main relay?

1/2 of the main relay controls the fuel pump function, and I've been told the other half controls something with the ECU/ignition function.

I've always seen the fuel pump side go out, but if the other side was out it could cause some funny electrical things to happen.

There should be zero correlation between the main relay function and changing a motor, but maybe it's just **** luck?

I don't know if you have a fried with the same vehicle you could pull the main relay from and try on your car but it might be worth a shot.

-B

 

finding someone is the hard part....

anyone in the northern detroit area with a F23A1 accord? HELP!!!

just in case: AIM=f23a5spd (clever, huh?)

email= f23a5spd@gmail.com (it's kind of a theme)


Modified by wreckless at 11:47 AM 4/28/2006

 

The main relay thing is kinda strange too. The main 'relay' is really 2 relays together in the same case. One switches power to the fuel pump, like notorious says.

The other one supplies power for the ECU, injectors, and most of the solenoid valves that are controlled by the ECU.

Does your check-engine light come on when you turn the key 'ON' but don't start? If it does, then the ECU is getting power from the main relay.

A blown coil fuse? That could prevent the spark plugs from firing...

 

BTW: main relay is good i think, the infor i got contradicted itself in the diagrams (numbers didn't corralate), so i'm still not positive on that one

coil fuse (#11 or#6 i think) is good all fuses are good at this point

and i get no CEL when on except for the momentary self check light...

it's gotta have something to do with that damn immoblizer light... i just can't find a flow chart with that in it

 

that's it? that's all you guys came up with? the most respected honda site on the web and that's all i get? i shoulda asked my next door neibour, i think i've seen him change his own oil, so maybe he'll have a better knowledge base than you guys...