Reliablity of a 350whp Daily Driven B18c
The H-T's highest HP on a stock block thread is giving me a lot of hope, but could it be a false sense of hope? I am making 272whp now at 7psi on my JDM B18c tuned on NepTune by Jeff Evans. It is starting to feel slow to me.
I have searched and know that my motor will make the power, I am just looking for EXPERIENCE over a prolonged amount of time making this power on a daily driver.
I know I could make a lot more power, but how reliable will it be for my daily driver. I baby the car, she is rarely beat on, I have never even done a burn out. She sees 8000 rpms on rare occasions.
Would it remain realiable if I made about 330-350whp and still had a great tune done by Jeff? Could my Excedy Stage 1 Clutch hold up with the way I drive the car? The motor has MAYBE 60k on it at the most. Mobli 1 5w-30 and NGK plugs are changed every 3k miles.
Thanks in advance for any responses or input!
Here she is, threads with pictures get more hits.

Does anyone know where this location is?
(haha sad attempt to get responses)
I have searched and know that my motor will make the power, I am just looking for EXPERIENCE over a prolonged amount of time making this power on a daily driver.
I know I could make a lot more power, but how reliable will it be for my daily driver. I baby the car, she is rarely beat on, I have never even done a burn out. She sees 8000 rpms on rare occasions.
Would it remain realiable if I made about 330-350whp and still had a great tune done by Jeff? Could my Excedy Stage 1 Clutch hold up with the way I drive the car? The motor has MAYBE 60k on it at the most. Mobli 1 5w-30 and NGK plugs are changed every 3k miles.
Thanks in advance for any responses or input!
Here she is, threads with pictures get more hits.

Does anyone know where this location is?
(haha sad attempt to get responses)
Hey...i've been there!
You're 350whp goal, are you intending to have the block built or will you be keeping it stock.
Do a compression test and see where you stand, and a little about your setup wouldn't hurt. The clutch probably wouldn't hold long at all, unless you're staying out of you're staying out of the powerrange day in and day out, which wouldn't be too much fun.
Jeff tuned my GSR, at 10 psi i made 330whp, i daily drive the car only at 6. The motor has about 15000 miles boosted miles on it, and I have no problems.
Another suggestion, maybe turn the boost up a bit, make 300 and enjoy that.
You're 350whp goal, are you intending to have the block built or will you be keeping it stock.
Do a compression test and see where you stand, and a little about your setup wouldn't hurt. The clutch probably wouldn't hold long at all, unless you're staying out of you're staying out of the powerrange day in and day out, which wouldn't be too much fun.
Jeff tuned my GSR, at 10 psi i made 330whp, i daily drive the car only at 6. The motor has about 15000 miles boosted miles on it, and I have no problems.
Another suggestion, maybe turn the boost up a bit, make 300 and enjoy that.
Well 350whp is pretty high, I would be satisfied with 315-330.
The block and head are completly stock and I would be leaving it that way (well the block at least.)
I did a compression test a few months back, the guage was off, but it was consistant across the board.
I was thinking about doing:
Blox intake manifold
CTR intake cam
tune with cam gears
10 psi
test pipe
yehiknowrite, could you elaborate on your set up and tell me what you did to make 330 and the clutch you are running? You can pm if you would like, Thanks a lot!
The block and head are completly stock and I would be leaving it that way (well the block at least.)
I did a compression test a few months back, the guage was off, but it was consistant across the board.
I was thinking about doing:
Blox intake manifold
CTR intake cam
tune with cam gears
10 psi
test pipe
yehiknowrite, could you elaborate on your set up and tell me what you did to make 330 and the clutch you are running? You can pm if you would like, Thanks a lot!
IMO going from 260 to 315 is alil dumb, if u don't want to go TOO crazy, just piston and rod the bottom end, bigger turbo, u'll make 400+ and be done with it, no sense in making 60 more whp then after a while getting tired of that too
a candle that burns twice as brite, burns half as long..
as long as you dont beat on the car or floor it at every stoplight it should last just as long as any other stock honda..
ditch the parts list.. just up the boost to make more power.. adjustable timing gears are nice to have though.. and obviously get a retune
PS, Stock MAP sensor?? you'll need to replace it
as long as you dont beat on the car or floor it at every stoplight it should last just as long as any other stock honda..
ditch the parts list.. just up the boost to make more power.. adjustable timing gears are nice to have though.. and obviously get a retune
PS, Stock MAP sensor?? you'll need to replace it
I would just like to make more power without dropping a couple thousand dollars to build the motor. But I also do not want to spend a couple thousand to rebuild it if something breaks, so I am looking for poeple with experience so I know what I can expect.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Zakar »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">a candle that burns twice as brite, burns half as long..
as long as you dont beat on the car or floor it at every stoplight it should last just as long as any other stock honda..
ditch the parts list.. just up the boost to make more power.. adjustable timing gears are nice to have though.. and obviously get a retune</TD></TR></TABLE>
I saw a thread on Jeff's forum where he extracted an extra 30-50 whp and 30-40 ft/lbs by just adjusting the gears: http://forums.evans-tuning.com...=1744
Alright, maybe I won't go crazy, I just stick with the gears and 10 psi and get retuned. I was just thinking if I was going to have the cams out to put the gears on, I may a well throw in a CTR cam. Then get the manifold to compliment that. The manifold and cam would help me make more power at 7psi so I would not have to turn it up to 10psi as much. Does that make sense?
Thanks for the input!!
as long as you dont beat on the car or floor it at every stoplight it should last just as long as any other stock honda..
ditch the parts list.. just up the boost to make more power.. adjustable timing gears are nice to have though.. and obviously get a retune</TD></TR></TABLE>
I saw a thread on Jeff's forum where he extracted an extra 30-50 whp and 30-40 ft/lbs by just adjusting the gears: http://forums.evans-tuning.com...=1744
Alright, maybe I won't go crazy, I just stick with the gears and 10 psi and get retuned. I was just thinking if I was going to have the cams out to put the gears on, I may a well throw in a CTR cam. Then get the manifold to compliment that. The manifold and cam would help me make more power at 7psi so I would not have to turn it up to 10psi as much. Does that make sense?
Thanks for the input!!
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Setup:
stock b18c1, full-race stage 1 gt kit, no cat, neptune'd by Jeff.
the clutch is a competition clutch, 6-puck sprung, ceramic. btw, great clutch.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GS-R Civic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
The manifold and cam would help me make more power at 7psi so I would not have to turn it up to 10psi as much. Does that make sense?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
What's the problem turning it up to 10 psi? The real question is how much power you will make, and how you drive the car, that is what will decide reliabilty. With Jeff tuning, there's no question in that department. The rest really depends on you.
Again though, can you go into detail on what your setup consists of now.
stock b18c1, full-race stage 1 gt kit, no cat, neptune'd by Jeff.
the clutch is a competition clutch, 6-puck sprung, ceramic. btw, great clutch.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GS-R Civic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
The manifold and cam would help me make more power at 7psi so I would not have to turn it up to 10psi as much. Does that make sense?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
What's the problem turning it up to 10 psi? The real question is how much power you will make, and how you drive the car, that is what will decide reliabilty. With Jeff tuning, there's no question in that department. The rest really depends on you.
Again though, can you go into detail on what your setup consists of now.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 99B16Si »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">race fuel is your friend....
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Haha, not on my daily driver with gas prices these days. I want it to run the same day in and day out without reliability issues.
I would like to get a little more out of it and still be safe. But if that is out of the question then I'll just have to deal with it.
</TD></TR></TABLE>Haha, not on my daily driver with gas prices these days. I want it to run the same day in and day out without reliability issues.
I would like to get a little more out of it and still be safe. But if that is out of the question then I'll just have to deal with it.
I made 340 WHP on a stock block with a T3/60-1 and pump gas, it lasted about 7500 miles before the ringlands let go when I was pulling onto the freeway. My advice is to keep it where it is, and invest a little bit of money in some rods and pistons. If you think you can't afford that now, you couldn't afford to replace the motor totally if something catastrophic fails, IE you throw a rod through the side of the block, destroy the head, and scar the crank past being useable.
I'm on the same boat my friend. 274whp is cutting it anymore...8(. I'm thinking about forged pistons and rods and maybe a billet mains. Hoping to achieve 350~400whp and 230+tq. 8)
I will be able to afford to fix it if something happens, im just looking to stop putting all my $$ into the car right now, but at the same time I would like to do a few little things to get some more power.
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