Removing the crankshaft pully... ARGH!
I just can't do it.
I have a JDM d15b engine in my garage and I figured I should replace the timing belt and water pump before I throw it in my car.
The damn bolt holding the crankshaft pully on won't budge.
At first I stuck a prybar and a screwdriver in the hole to offer some sort of resistance. The end result was a bent screwdriver and prybar.
Today I hooked up the air tools to try to move the thing. Nothing.
Does anyone have a secret (maybe with pictures?) on how to get this thing to budge? My next plan will be to take it to a mechanic and just have him do it all for me.
I have a JDM d15b engine in my garage and I figured I should replace the timing belt and water pump before I throw it in my car.
The damn bolt holding the crankshaft pully on won't budge.
At first I stuck a prybar and a screwdriver in the hole to offer some sort of resistance. The end result was a bent screwdriver and prybar.
Today I hooked up the air tools to try to move the thing. Nothing.
Does anyone have a secret (maybe with pictures?) on how to get this thing to budge? My next plan will be to take it to a mechanic and just have him do it all for me.
Yes, I've done this several times. Get the correct size socket I believe it 19MM and put it on a breaker bar. Now hear is the trick. I then took a 4 foot steel hollow tube that fit over the breaker bar and now you stand on it and it and jump up and down. The tube I used was actually for mounting an old TV antenna to the roof of a house but hey it works. Guaranteed, oh and it’s a standard thread not reverse. Oh and one more thing. You will turn the engine over so you have to take a big *** screw driver and jam it in your your fly wheel to keep it from spinning after you've removed you clutch inspection cover. It's probably about 150 - 200 ft/lbs of torque need to bust this.
Get some one else on the other side with a flywheel turner and go opposite ways. You both do half the work to get the bolt free. Easy as hell this compared to doing in the car. Trust me, I got in a recent fight with my car over this. Check the dent in the driver's side fender of my car on pg 50 of the pics thread, lol.
It took me about 2 days to get mine broken loose, and the engine was sitting on a pallet right infront of me. I cannot even imagin trying this with the engine in the car. Anyway, I basically had a 3 foot breaker bar and had to stand on it and jump up and down.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by si0385. »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what kind of compressor and gun are you using... also how much psi is in your tank...
the right impact gun and tank will do the job
</TD></TR></TABLE> I will vouch for that
the right impact gun and tank will do the job
</TD></TR></TABLE> I will vouch for that
yea that things a bitch... I second everybody else who is recommending getting an impact gun. I bought one specifically for this job- I got a Rigid electric impact wrench- it cost like 175 dollars, plus 30 bucks for impact sockets, but thats the best 200 some dolars ive ever spent on tools. I highly recommend it. I got mine off in under 6 seconds, plus its works perfect for all those other hard bolts- like axle nuts, rusted exhaust bolts, etc... GET AN IMPACT WRENCH! plus they're super cool
Thanks for all of the replies. I tried an impact gun today, but it was only set at 80psi. Bunger suggested I let it go up to 120psi, so I'm going to take his advice on that one.
remove a spark plug, insert about a foot of rope into the cylinder and turn the crank until the rope does not allow the crank to turn. then stick your breaker bar and socket . that should do the trick Ive done it many many times good luck
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