Refer to this:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1580669

I just got my new one on, went to the track on street tires. Cut a 2.2 60ft But when I returned home and changed my tires I saw that they were bent again and this time not just one but both sides are bent. I havent yet emailed ETD but what the hell could be causing this to happen?

 

time to get a fullrace huh?

 

seems like something is hitting it. are you torquing it down all the way?

 

kinda looks like it is binding under acceleration

 

I think there is something else going on with your ride. I got the same exact etd bars on my crx. Launching at 7000 on 22x8x13 slicks and no problems whatsoever with mine. Pullin 1.6'-1.7's all day long and still looking good.

 

the diameter of the threads is pretty small. not a lot of strength. thats the weakest spot. no surprise it failed there. (twice!)

i dont think its so much of binding, in fact its too freely unconstrained with the spherical heim joint. its allowing it to bend and buckle at its weakest point.

ha, i just looked at the original thread, looks like mr vann agrees.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Wes V &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm not questioning that it happened (photos don't lie), but I can't see how!! (I'm a structural engineer)

Other than a side impact on the radius arm there isn't a significant lateral load at the area bent. It's just compression and tension loading.

I'd recommend that you look at the side of the arm to see if there is any marking showing an impact.

How was the threaded section of the bar made? In other words, was the bar cut short, drilled, and then a section of threaded rod installed. Is there any indication that they did any welding at the attachment point of the threaded rod. This could lead to ia lose of strength. Or is it possible that they turned down the original factory arms and then tap them for the heim joint. (if you could state the thread size, that may answer it.

I'd also REALLY like to see a photo of the bar removed from the car and just sitting on the floor.

Is there a heim joint on the other end of the bar? (if so, I think I know what happened!!)

Wes V</TD></TR></TABLE>

also, you might have some other bushing issues on your left side which may explain why its occuring on the same side twice. but really, if it failed like that, the design isnt strong enough.

 

its time to buy a real one. no knock off ebay

 

can you take a picture of the end that bolts onto the LCA? im wondering if its identical to the STOCK radius rod, in fact if they just used old oem radius rods and cut off and rethreaded the end.... hmmm.... just a thought, not an accusation.

 

This time it is bent on BOTH sides not just one. The radius rods are OEM style but definely not OEM.
Here is a picture of ETD (left) VS OEM (right):

 

ah ok. nevermind then

 

ur vtech is kicking like to hard YO.

must feel like a 800hp viper

 

^^^^ lol

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tyson &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i dont think its so much of binding, in fact its too freely unconstrained with the spherical heim joint. its allowing it to bend and buckle at its weakest point.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Actually, the spherical bearing is there so that the rod cannot experience a bending moment, but only tension and compression loading. When a spherical binds, then a bending moment can be applied, so you have this backwards. Buckling is something completely different and is an instability that occurs when you put something in very heavy compression (even if it's perfectly in compression with no bending whatsoever). When you stand on a soda can and then someone comes along and just touches the side of it, and then it collapses, that is buckling.

I will agree with you though that where the small diameter of the threaded portion meets the large diameter is indeed the weak point.

 

Take it to a frame shop and have them check it over!! Check ALL the bushings in the front suspension REAL close.

I don't really see anything with the bars that I feel is a gross design error and without getting questions answered, it's near impossible to figure it out.

Short of that, ask the manufacturer if they will give you your money back and buy a different bar.

Wes Vann

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by djphonics &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
When you stand on a soda can and then someone comes along and just touches the side of it, and then it collapses, that is buckling.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah, thats exactly what i mean tho. the spherical end is like a wobbly ankle stepping on the soda can.

i totally understand the need for allowing the freedom of movement, but im not sure if its rightly placed.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tyson &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

yeah, thats exactly what i mean tho. the spherical end is like a wobbly ankle stepping on the soda can.

i totally understand the need for allowing the freedom of movement, but im not sure if its rightly placed.</TD></TR></TABLE>

So I think what you're saying is that something is moving and allowing the loading to go "out of plane" which is very likely and I would agree with that. That would allow the loading to go beyond pure tension/compression and go into bending.

It seems there are other people who have had good results with these bars, so I am leaning more towards the possibility that a suspension point is moved (ie something is bent on the car) and allowing the loading to get out of plane. Either that, or these bars are totally underdesigned pieces of junk (or you're somehow putting down like 1200 hp ).

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tyson &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

yeah, thats exactly what i mean tho. the spherical end is like a wobbly ankle stepping on the soda can.

i totally understand the need for allowing the freedom of movement, but im not sure if its rightly placed.</TD></TR></TABLE>

vtech to hard. vtech bends/binds destroys anything in the 12 galxc.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by djphonics &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

So I think what you're saying is that something is moving and allowing the loading to go "out of plane" which is very likely and I would agree with that. That would allow the loading to go beyond pure tension/compression and go into bending.</TD></TR></TABLE>

thats right. and the weak point is that threaded part. you cant expect it to be PURELY in axial compression/tension in the real world, especially if you put a free joint at the end and you know the other end is moving up and down in its range.

otherwise, why bother with anything other than .1" thickness....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tyson &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

thats right. and the weak point is that threaded part. you cant expect it to be PURELY in axial compression/tension in the real world, especially if you put a free joint at the end and you know the other end is moving up and down in its range.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes that is obviously the weak point, every part has one (or many), but I would expect that if these people have ANY idea of what they are doing, then they would have done at least some basic stress analysis on this part and would have sized their threaded rod ends appropriately. If not, then stay away from this company.

 

they sold their product on ebay.... need to say more?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tyson &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">they sold their product on ebay.... need to say more?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Lol no I think you have pretty much put this issue in a nutshell.

 

u ebay freaks need to be aware...

ur luckly didn't cause problems on the freeway ..

 

I took the traction bars off and put my stock crossmember back on. Here are some more pics:

 

I bought some cheapy bars once and busted a heim joint and It ended up busting my fender all up. Since I have purchased some jimfab bars and the heim joints are almost twice the size of the chincy ones a lot of people are selling on there bars these days.

 

Just got anothe email from them:
"Our new bars for your model car will be 1 1/2 they were to be that size in the first place but there was some miss communication with our welding shop and they made them the same size as our CRX."

So Im hoping these new bars will hold up. I just dont understand why hey arnt now.