I got a code 9 on my 92 EX. It reads 450 ohms and shows no continuity to ground. Is there any other method of diagnosis or do these sensors fail with intermittent opens that eventually set a code? In the past week it has died 6 or 7 times from lack of torque during clutch engagement coming of the line. That's the only symptom until it set the code this afternoon.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by amckee &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I got a code 9 on my 92 EX. It reads 450 ohms and shows no continuity to ground. Is there any other method of diagnosis or do these sensors fail with intermittent opens that eventually set a code? In the past week it has died 6 or 7 times from lack of torque during clutch engagement coming of the line. That's the only symptom until it set the code this afternoon.</TD></TR></TABLE>

try something.. on the disdtr plug the 8 pin connecxtion, get a small needle nose and twist the male pins in the plug so the make better contact ,, DO NOT twist too hard or you will brake the pin,, Also do the same thing at the plugs at the right shock tower ,
,Clear the code and test drive ..
if you still got an issue then you go to do some testing at the ecu..
try this first and let me know ..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by accord-pro &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

try something.. on the disdtr plug the 8 pin connecxtion, get a small needle nose and twist the male pins in the plug so the make better contact ,, DO NOT twist too hard or you will brake the pin,, Also do the same thing at the plugs at the right shock tower ,
,Clear the code and test drive ..
if you still got an issue then you go to do some testing at the ecu..
try this first and let me know ..

</TD></TR></TABLE>Alright, it set the code again last night right before I got home. It dawned on me also that both times this code was set the ac was on. It sets the code after a stumble when I dump the accelerator and the clutch on a quick stop. Those are the similar factors. What kind of ECU tests do you have for me or do you think I may be getting this code because of the near stall involved fooling the computer?

 

i wish i could send you a picture of the ecu . so you properly see exactly where to test,, as it is i am not equipped to send pics,, all i can do it to tell you

so you have chked resistance at distr and it is ok
no continuity to ground
you twisted the pin connectors, cleared the code and it came back on


Now disconnect the plug at ecu.. if you could get your hands on a test harness it would be great.. you need to test the middle plug it has 16 pins,, looking at it ,, it is the third from your right,, B11 and B 12 ..CHK RESISTANCE BETWEEN THOSE 2 SHOULD BE 260-500 OHMS,, oops caps sorry ..if out of specs, there is an open on the orange and or the white wire

chk continuity to ground on B 11 ...if it has continuity there is a short to ground on orange wire between ECU and distributor connector.....
IF no continuity the last thing they want you to do is try a new ECU ....but ,,
To tell you the truth a few of these codes 9 i have seen ,, it has always ended up being the disributor,,, but DO NOT take my word for it DIAGNOSE EVERYTHING FIRST
keep me posted ..

 

Alright, this thing is about to drive me nuts. I cannot find an open or a short to ground anywhere from the distributor to the ECU. Resistance is about 445 ohms, when the engine is hot, from the distributor to the ECU at every connection. I have swapped the distributor with a known good one and still have the same problem. It will only set the code at idle when the engine is hot. It will be purring at 800 RPM, then will instantly drop to 400 and right back up to 800. It will do this a couple of times and then set the code. Once the CEL is on the idle is stable. With the original distributor, it would usually die first, and then set the code after a recrank and another 800 to 400 to 800 cycle. Above an idle and prior to the code being set, it runs perfect with no hesitation or lack of power. It is very smooth, as always. Is it feasible that something else is causing the stumble and that in turn is setting a false code? Does anyone know the exact criteria under which the code 9 is set? Is my only option at this point the ECU?

If I hold the idle to 875-900 RPM with the pedal, it doesn't happen at all.
But if I raise the idle to the same 900 RPM with the idle screw, It will stumble and give me the CEL.


Modified by amckee at 8:55 AM 4/18/2006


Modified by amckee at 12:22 AM 4/19/2006

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by amckee &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Alright, this thing is about to drive me nuts. I cannot find an open or a short to ground anywhere from the distributor to the ECU. Resistance is about 445 ohms, when the engine is hot, from the distributor to the ECU at every connection. I have swapped the distributor with a known good one and still have the same problem. It will only set the code at idle when the engine is hot. It will be purring at 800 RPM, then will instantly drop to 400 and right back up to 800. It will do this a couple of times and then set the code. Once the CEL is on the idle is stable. With the original distributor, it would usually die first, and then set the code after a recrank and another 800 to 400 to 800 cycle. Above an idle and prior to the code being set, it runs perfect with no hesitation or lack of power. It is very smooth, as always. Is it feasible that something else is causing the stumble and that in turn is setting a false code? Does anyone know the exact criteria under which the code 9 is set? Is my only option at this point the ECU?

If I hold the idle to 875-900 RPM with the pedal, it doesn't happen at all.


Modified by amckee at 8:55 AM 4/18/2006</TD></TR></TABLE>bump

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by amckee &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Alright, this thing is about to drive me nuts. I cannot find an open or a short to ground anywhere from the distributor to the ECU. Resistance is about 445 ohms, when the engine is hot, from the distributor to the ECU at every connection. I have swapped the distributor with a known good one and still have the same problem. It will only set the code at idle when the engine is hot. It will be purring at 800 RPM, then will instantly drop to 400 and right back up to 800. It will do this a couple of times and then set the code. Once the CEL is on the idle is stable. With the original distributor, it would usually die first, and then set the code after a recrank and another 800 to 400 to 800 cycle. Above an idle and prior to the code being set, it runs perfect with no hesitation or lack of power. It is very smooth, as always. Is it feasible that something else is causing the stumble and that in turn is setting a false code? Does anyone know the exact criteria under which the code 9 is set? Is my only option at this point the ECU?

If I hold the idle to 875-900 RPM with the pedal, it doesn't happen at all.


Modified by amckee at 8:55 AM 4/18/2006</TD></TR></TABLE>Bump #2. Come on, if I asked a stupid question like how wide a tire can I put on a such and such or what kind of exhaust should I use, I'd get 25 responses it 2 minutes. I thought this was Honda-TECH, emphasis on the tech. Maybe it should be Honda-Riceandotherboltonbullshit.com

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by amckee &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Alright, this thing is about to drive me nuts. I cannot find an open or a short to ground anywhere from the distributor to the ECU. Resistance is about 445 ohms, when the engine is hot, from the distributor to the ECU at every connection. I have swapped the distributor with a known good one and still have the same problem. It will only set the code at idle when the engine is hot. It will be purring at 800 RPM, then will instantly drop to 400 and right back up to 800. It will do this a couple of times and then set the code. Once the CEL is on the idle is stable. With the original distributor, it would usually die first, and then set the code after a recrank and another 800 to 400 to 800 cycle. Above an idle and prior to the code being set, it runs perfect with no hesitation or lack of power. It is very smooth, as always. Is it feasible that something else is causing the stumble and that in turn is setting a false code? Does anyone know the exact criteria under which the code 9 is set? Is my only option at this point the ECU?

If I hold the idle to 875-900 RPM with the pedal, it doesn't happen at all.
But if I raise the idle to the same 900 RPM with the idle screw, It will stumble and give me the CEL.


Modified by amckee at 8:55 AM 4/18/2006


Modified by amckee at 12:22 AM 4/19/2006</TD></TR></TABLE>Bump #3 Come on, I'm losing faith. Even if you don't have the exact answer, your thoughts might help me reason it out.

 

if you have tried all that i suggested ,, and all is fine, the next step is to replace the distributor or the ECU ..

 

I tried it all and the known good distibutor I used was new. I guess I'm just afraid that what I'm dealing with is an intermittant open in the circuit that may well be in the wiring harness and only occuring under the stress of running and driving. I would love to see a ladder logic diagram of the ECU in open and closed loop so that I can reconcile why the Throttle plate being slightly open cures this problem. And why does the problem not cause ANY drivability issues? Thanks for your responses a-p.