Topic sums it up. Right now I'm still running my original '88 Si ECU and distributor. I have an OBD0-to-OBD1 ECU jumper and OBD0-OBD1 distributor jumper as well. The engine came out of a '93 Integra LS and they were using the integra's original ECU and dizzy but I was unable to find out how it ran with those.

I know the '98 B20 has it's peak 126 hp at 5400 rpm and peak torque 133 lbs/tq at 4300 rpm. That's where I shift now if I'm flooring it but I really don't know how good of an A/F mixture it's getting. Or it I should be shifting higer or lower. Anyone with some knowledge, your assistance is greatly appreciated.

 

Most '88 ECUs can't be chipped without soldering on an adaptor (not really an easy task).

 

just use an obd0 b18 ecu. you don't need to go obd1. obd0 pr4 from a 90 LS is what I use. works great.

 

^I hoped someone would say that. Do I use the engine's shiftpoints or the Integra's shiftpoints?

 

Bump

 

shift it at 7k....the obd0 PR4 cuts at about that anyway.

 

Bump for any more info

 

what else do you need to know? the B20 is the SAME motor as the LS, minus the bore. It's the same engine, same head, same injectors, etc. Just run the PR4, it runs the B20 perfect. Drive it like it's an LS, meaning shift at 7k when you race.

 

Actually, the stock PR4 cuts at 6800rpm, Im running turboedit and my limiter is set at 7.2k and I shift at 7k.

 

obd0 ls ecu

 

sorry, i was thinking of a obd1 PR4...yah obd0 cuts at 6834 or some wierd RPM like that. That's fine for the B20. And just because your not making any power up there doesn't mean not to shift at a higher RPM. Higher RPM's also mean the tires are spinning faster which means faster acceleration.

 

Thanks for the info. One last question: can I just the ECU and be good or is the distributor swap neccessary too? Hopefully this isn't a dumb question.

 

I don't know what you are asking...but i'll put it this way

you have to use the obd0 distributor w/ the obd0 PR4. You can't use an obd1/2 distributor with an obd0 ecu.

 

Has anyone ever used an OBD-0 to OBD-1 jumper for their wsapped CRX? I should getting my hands on a pair soon to test it out and see it runs.

 

the jumper is really worth it....i have it in my hatch...of course the same thing..currently running obd1 single vtec ported and polish w/ matching intake manifolds both exhaust and intake with gsr throttle body..and alot more. turbo charged from greddy....running obd0 is fine, but your not running the engine at its full potiential...with an obd0 distributor from a crx, on a b18/b20 you'll get a little more top end, but if you were to get an original obd1 distributor and run the whole complete setup ..that means all over to obd1, you'll feel the tremdous difference in torque and top end also.....put it this way, its not the same situation but my boy had a gsr in a hatch running pr3 thats obd0 b16 vtec with the obd0 distributor and it was pulling low 15.1's only..the engine is a obd1...94-95..after he got the wiring harness, he jumped to 14.6's consistant....its worth it...well at least to me

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdmcivicturbo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the jumper is really worth it....i have it in my hatch...of course the same thing..currently running obd1 single vtec ported and polish w/ matching intake manifolds both exhaust and intake with gsr throttle body..and alot more. turbo charged from greddy....running obd0 is fine, but your not running the engine at its full potiential...with an obd0 distributor from a crx, on a b18/b20 you'll get a little more top end, but if you were to get an original obd1 distributor and run the whole complete setup ..that means all over to obd1, you'll feel the tremdous difference in torque and top end also.....put it this way, its not the same situation but my boy had a gsr in a hatch running pr3 thats obd0 b16 vtec with the obd0 distributor and it was pulling low 15.1's only..the engine is a obd1...94-95..after he got the wiring harness, he jumped to 14.6's consistant....its worth it...well at least to me </TD></TR></TABLE>

OBDI PR4 or P75 is the way to go. From what I have heard, there is really no difference in the fuel maps between these ECUs. But the idle control works better on the P75.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdmcivicturbo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the jumper is really worth it....i have it in my hatch...of course the same thing..currently running obd1 single vtec ported and polish w/ matching intake manifolds both exhaust and intake with gsr throttle body..and alot more. turbo charged from greddy....running obd0 is fine, but your not running the engine at its full potiential...with an obd0 distributor from a crx, on a b18/b20 you'll get a little more top end, but if you were to get an original obd1 distributor and run the whole complete setup ..that means all over to obd1, you'll feel the tremdous difference in torque and top end also.....put it this way, its not the same situation but my boy had a gsr in a hatch running pr3 thats obd0 b16 vtec with the obd0 distributor and it was pulling low 15.1's only..the engine is a obd1...94-95..after he got the wiring harness, he jumped to 14.6's consistant....its worth it...well at least to me </TD></TR></TABLE>

you don't get top end based on what OBD wiring/distributor you use....lol.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bambam &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

you don't get top end based on what OBD wiring/distributor you use....lol.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Unless you chip and tune, you do get better top end with a 1992+ ECU due to the better maps on those ECUs (vs the 1990-1991 PR4).

 

no crap...you can chip and tune OBD0 ecu's as well, which is what I'm running myself. OBD ITSELF has nothing to do with power. The different gererations are just more refined versions of monitoring the engine and limiting the motors exhausted pollutants.
That guy said he felt "tremendous power and torque" from switching to OBD1....yah ok. You're not going to feel a tremendous amount of powere and torque from switching from one stock ecu to another.
OBD1 ecu's used to be looked at as the only ecu's you can chip and tune....which they were..but nowadays, OBD0 ecu's have just as much support and can be tuned just as easily, if not easier than OBD1 ecu's.

The 92+ LS ecu's aren't BETTER than 90-91 ecu's. They run slightly richer because the 92+ LS motors had larger intake manifolds and intake ports on the head, as well as better cams and exhaust manifolds, which increased air flow. OBD1 ls maps aren't any better....they were designed for the newer B18. B18 motors run better when they are leaned out...
We actually used a 92 dx computer and a 93 LS computer in a b20z swapped EG. Guess which ecu dynoed w/ more power....92 dx computer.

 

Just a quick update, I was able to get my hands on a '93 Integra ECU & distributor. Used my jumper harnesses I bought from LoCashRacing.com years ago and the car runs ridiculously better.

Only thing I can't figure out is why the oil light stays on since the setup has been plugged in.

 

faulty sensor or the wire is being grounded out, ecu has nothing to do with oil light

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by knwldge54 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just a quick update, I was able to get my hands on a '93 Integra ECU & distributor. Used my jumper harnesses I bought from LoCashRacing.com years ago and the car runs ridiculously better.

Only thing I can't figure out is why the oil light stays on since the setup has been plugged in.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Runs better than what? Your '88 D-series ECU?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jpciii &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Runs better than what? Your '88 D-series ECU?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes the '93 Integra ECU & Distributor work better than my '88 CRX Si ECU and Distributor.

 

Does it ever act funny... like bog down in traffic?... or idle funny?

 

My oil light stays on. And the car idles a little high (around 1100rpm)