**Update** CRX LS swap
Since my old thread seems to have disappeared, here is the current update.
Got the head porting/polishing done, should be getting the engine in the car very soon now. Here are the pics of the finished head:



If you have any questions, don't hesitate to ask.
Got the head porting/polishing done, should be getting the engine in the car very soon now. Here are the pics of the finished head:



If you have any questions, don't hesitate to ask.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Valenzuela »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how much did the port an polish cost ya?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Just time and patience. One of the guys at my shop did the work.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Specs of the build?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Nothing fancy right now. Fully balanced stock LS motor, hot tanked block/head, new rings, stock size block rehone, micropolished crank, AEM Hybrid intake. I may keep it NA for awhile, probably throw on a header and catback and then some cams down the road with a good tune. I am also considering turbo setup, fairly mild, around 200whp or so.
Just time and patience. One of the guys at my shop did the work.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Specs of the build?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Nothing fancy right now. Fully balanced stock LS motor, hot tanked block/head, new rings, stock size block rehone, micropolished crank, AEM Hybrid intake. I may keep it NA for awhile, probably throw on a header and catback and then some cams down the road with a good tune. I am also considering turbo setup, fairly mild, around 200whp or so.
Doesnt look like the best port and polish. The guy did not even port the runners all the way down. He also didnt shave the point down but other than that good luck.
Not going for mirror finish here, just increasing flow a bit. Looks and FEELS much better in person. Smooth as a babies behind now. Some parts of the chambers were left a bit rough to help with swirl effect. I don't need every little angle knife edged and reflecitve. Much more impressive in person. Once I get it together I'll get a baseline dyno to see where it's at.
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how much have you put into the ls swap soo far?? i am purchasing a block and head with out axles and ecu but i do get eagle rods and ares pistons with rings and a ls hydro tranny for 1650... is that too much?? i still need to purchase hasport motor mounts and shift linkage and a few other things but i should be getting done with it soon.......... thanks
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Youlose1305 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how much have you put into the ls swap soo far?? i am purchasing a block and head with out axles and ecu but i do get eagle rods and ares pistons with rings and a ls hydro tranny for 1650... is that too much?? i still need to purchase hasport motor mounts and shift linkage and a few other things but i should be getting done with it soon.......... thanks</TD></TR></TABLE>
I've put in at least that much at this point. Over 2k really and I still need to either hack my shift linkage or buy a setup. Axles and a used ecu can be found cheap. I think you got a pretty decent deal there. Make sure you do ALL your research beforehand so you know all the little things that may come up during the swap. Be prepared.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">very nice</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thanks.
I've put in at least that much at this point. Over 2k really and I still need to either hack my shift linkage or buy a setup. Axles and a used ecu can be found cheap. I think you got a pretty decent deal there. Make sure you do ALL your research beforehand so you know all the little things that may come up during the swap. Be prepared.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">very nice</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thanks.
ya i plan on being prepared!!! i just dont really have time to look for good deals on things cuz i sorta need to get this engine done...... but is it pretty easy to come across a used set of hasport mounts??? i would just like to get a set of those than anything else....... while its apart is there anything else i should plan on doing or just getting it honed out and bored for the new pistons and stuff is good enuf????
thanks for the input i just need some more advice on **** and if you know of any1 selling shift linkage or mounts or tranny just let me know cuz im lookin for any deals right now............thanks
thanks for the input i just need some more advice on **** and if you know of any1 selling shift linkage or mounts or tranny just let me know cuz im lookin for any deals right now............thanks
I understand time is of the essence, but don't rush the job. You want to do it right the first time so you can avoid problems down the road. The Hasport mounts are $$, you could save some dough and go with another quality company such as HCP. Also you want to make sure the cylinder head is in good shape. Having it resurfaced is a good idea to make sure you don't blow a head gasket. Good luck!
thanks for the help and if you know of anything else i should plan on doing give me a shout..........in your opinion would you go with the hydro ls tranny or find a different one??? i know i would have to get a conversion kit for it but the guy wants 250 for it and i dont know if i want to get shorter gears or longer ones???????? thanks
I went with the cable tranny just to make the swap easier. I didn't want to do the conversion, too much work. Just make sure you have ALL the parts you need before you start.
I have a question...........what parts should i be purchasing from an acura dealership............like the oil pump, rod bearings, head gasket, oil pan gasket or wat im not sure what parts would be the best to purchase because i do see a lot of these parts on ebay and was wondering wat your opinion was??? thanks
Please dont take this the wrong way as im trying to help you out....not flame you. I have been porting heads for a while now....and have done 25-30 of them so far. I can tell you now that the port job that he did will do nothing but hurt performance.
First off...you cant just leave "parts" of the ports rough and expect to get exual fuel atomization. Youve got to understand that the fuel doesnt simply fall to the floor of the port. Its sucked to the walls when they are too smooth. This not only causes puddling but it actually lessens the cross sectional area of flow. With that port job you are basically making the port smaller than stock. If you want me to go more into detail i will...but i dont feel like it right now.
Second...when porting you want to open the throats and the area to the throats. Opening the mouth of the port will do little to no good. I can still see the stock flash marks and milling marks in the throat which means very little, if any material was removed there. You also need to pay more attention to the short turn of the port. Also on the pic of the throats...on the intake side the right throat has been opened more than the one on the left. You need to make sure that everything is balanced well. This is going to cause poor burn quality and flame travel in the combustion chamber.
It basically looks like your friend smootherd out the ports and thats it. Unfortunately, this usually causes more harm than good. This is going to cause poor idle and alot of backfires. If nothing else...get your friend to go back over the ports with an 80grit abrasive roll.
Heres a few pics of an LS head that i did a mild port job on a long time ago. My porting skills have improved greatly since then


And heres a pic of an srt4 head that i did. You can see the amount of attention that was paid to the throats and the entrance to the throats.

Good luck man. And shoot me a PM if you need anymore help
First off...you cant just leave "parts" of the ports rough and expect to get exual fuel atomization. Youve got to understand that the fuel doesnt simply fall to the floor of the port. Its sucked to the walls when they are too smooth. This not only causes puddling but it actually lessens the cross sectional area of flow. With that port job you are basically making the port smaller than stock. If you want me to go more into detail i will...but i dont feel like it right now.
Second...when porting you want to open the throats and the area to the throats. Opening the mouth of the port will do little to no good. I can still see the stock flash marks and milling marks in the throat which means very little, if any material was removed there. You also need to pay more attention to the short turn of the port. Also on the pic of the throats...on the intake side the right throat has been opened more than the one on the left. You need to make sure that everything is balanced well. This is going to cause poor burn quality and flame travel in the combustion chamber.
It basically looks like your friend smootherd out the ports and thats it. Unfortunately, this usually causes more harm than good. This is going to cause poor idle and alot of backfires. If nothing else...get your friend to go back over the ports with an 80grit abrasive roll.
Heres a few pics of an LS head that i did a mild port job on a long time ago. My porting skills have improved greatly since then


And heres a pic of an srt4 head that i did. You can see the amount of attention that was paid to the throats and the entrance to the throats.

Good luck man. And shoot me a PM if you need anymore help
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