i have a 1992 hatch with a b16 (obd1) my ecu is throwing out a check engine code #41 (Primary Oxygen Sensor - Heater). does anyone know how can i fix that?

thanks.

 

did everything work fine after the swap? (swap issue)

if it worked fine for a while and just popped up while using the car, replace the O2.
If that doesn't fix it check the wiring.

 

Mine did the same thing. I forgot to wire the 5-wire to 4-wire and replaced the O2 also just in case. Went away

 

Check a haines manual. If its an O2 sensor you might as well just replace them. You can find them on del sol and such at the junk yard.

 

What trim level is the car, CX DX Si...ect?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 96-EJ6 B18C &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What trim level is the car, CX DX Si...ect?</TD></TR></TABLE>

i have a VX. im using the VX harness. does that matter or no?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Relic1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">did everything work fine after the swap? (swap issue)</TD></TR></TABLE>

the motor was in my friends 92 DX. we just swapped motors but kept the same harness. im running the VX harness right now. my O2 sensor is from the stock VX motor (5 wire).

 

If it is a heater failure that means the the heater in the oxygen sensore is most likely open. The O2 sensor is heated because it is able to prduce its best reading at 600 degrees.

O2 sensor before the cat is bad.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM-97CX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If it is a heater failure that means the the heater in the oxygen sensore is most likely open. The O2 sensor is heated because it is able to prduce its best reading at 600 degrees.

O2 sensor before the cat is bad.</TD></TR></TABLE>

so do i need to convert my 5 wire O2 to 4 wire or just get a new O2?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EG6 RITZ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

so do i need to convert my 5 wire O2 to 4 wire or just get a new O2?</TD></TR></TABLE>

do both. but do the wiring first, since its "free"

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EG6 RITZ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

so do i need to convert my 5 wire O2 to 4 wire or just get a new O2?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Since you're running a B16 hopefully you are running an ECU setup for that engine. The VX ECU will damage a B16.

That being said you need the O2 sensor that matches the ECU. The P07 (VX ECU) needs the 5-wire O2.
I'm not sure which ECU you are running with the B16 but pretty much every commonly used ECU requires a 4-wire O2.

If you're using the VX engine harness and O2 with a non-P07 you have some O2 sensor wiring to switch around and I see a new O2 in your immediate future.
(note: sell the 5-wire and buy a 4-wire, keep the profits)

 

I would just try a new sensor...

 

you need to re-pin at the ecu for the 4 wire o2. and you are also gonna need a 4 wire o2

 

alright cool. so no matter what, my O2 sensor is bad correct? thanks everyone for the help

 

that sounds like the lambda sensor has gone im a mechanic and 9 times out of ten them civics come in with that lignt on which is very rare i should ad it is the lambda sensor also known as the oxygen sensor located on the exhaust i own one and recently had to change mine

 

Your O2 sensor may be fine.
It all depends on the ECU that you are running.

the VX ECU uses a 12V signal to turn on the heater.
Pretty much every other ECU uses a gronded signal to tune it on. Switching it will cause the ECU to think that the heater is bad and throw this code.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Relic1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Your O2 sensor may be fine.
It all depends on the ECU that you are running.

the VX ECU uses a 12V signal to turn on the heater.
Pretty much every other ECU uses a gronded signal to tune it on. Switching it will cause the ECU to think that the heater is bad and throw this code.</TD></TR></TABLE>

im running a p30 ecu (b16) im using the VX wire harness and the VX O2 sensor.

 

ok, there is the reason you have the CEL.
the P30 needs a 4-wire O2 sensor.
The VX heater wiring is also backwards like I mentioned in my previouis post.
re-wire the O2 wiring and put in a 4-wire O2 and you should be ok.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Relic1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok, there is the reason you have the CEL.
the P30 needs a 4-wire O2 sensor.
The VX heater wiring is also backwards like I mentioned in my previouis post.
re-wire the O2 wiring and put in a 4-wire O2 and you should be ok.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i have no clue how to re-wire the O2. does anyone have the diagram for that or can explain it to me. i have never re-wired a O2 sensor before. thanks for all the help.

 

anyone know how to convert a 5 wire O2 to a 4 wire?

 

anyone know how to wire this? help,...

 

CEL #41 - 41 primary oxygen sensor heater

so in my case (P30 on a B16 w/4-wire o2 sensor), i should just get a new o2 sensor, right? i mean, i just got a new cat' and wanted to get a new o2 sensor along with it anyway.

after tha swap, everythin' ran fine on a P28. got a P30 and got CEL #21 - knock sensor. got new cat' and few weeks after, engine started to run like shiet in VTEC. ran a shieled wire from ECU to a knock sensor i just picked up and CEL went on still. checked it out and it was CEL #41. (at least CEL #21 went away.) engine still runs like shiet in VTEC.

i swear, i fix one CEL code and another thing pops up. it's been like that one after another. i'm gettin' tired of it.

_taF

 

by tha way, for CEL #41, does tha ECM/engine go to any sort of limp-mode? ever since this code, my engine detonates -- even more so when i go into VTEC range or when i gun it hard. i have an aftermarket exhaust setup and it just makes so much popping/backfiring sound. tha engine feels like it won't go any faster and is bein' forced to slow down. and just yesterday, tha car started bucking a few times. when engine was warmped up enough, it stopped. i have to shift at 4k RPM and take it real slow.

what's goin' on?

_taF

 

ok. fixed my problem after replacin' my o2 sensor. but tha only reason why i was gettin' a CEL #41 was because one of my heater wires got yanked, somehow.

but my detonation-like thing is still goin' on. when i drive moderately hard to floorin' it, exhaust sounds are backfirin' in rapid sequence, really hard through each gear (more on lower gears) -- usually at VTEC range or when floorin' it. and tha engine feels like it's bein' forced back, like i'm haulin' a huge RV or somethin'. also, somewhere between 3k and 4k RPM, when i slowly cruise up and down between it, i feel tha engine jerk or buck -- like after 3k/4k, engine lets loose and drives freely, but under 3k/4k, it has this bad drag.

i dont understand what's goin' on. no CEL. everythin' has been cleared and repaired. any help guys?

_taF

PS: same thing happens on both my P28 and P30.