So, I got it finished and working great since november, but I haven't had an engine lift around and I'm trying to get some Experienced info here.
The engine's been crooked since I finished, and the front tranny mount, and the lower engine mount haven't been installed because of the weird angle... they won't fit. I have all the Manual-engine Mounts, but someone told me it is because there are a set of holes for the different positioning of the rear tranny mount in the back bottom brace. Is that true? I need some help, because I like not having to replace axles and having a clean engine. Thanks in advance

 

What did you use for the TOP tranny mount? Did you buy a AUTO to Manual conversion mount?

Or you just used a manual top tranny mount?

 

I used all the stock manual mounts that came with the swap... So only 3 of 5 mounts are actual holding it up. And the rear mount was a super bitch.

 

well the 3 mounts are what actuallyhold it up the other 2 are torque mounts...

 

What was so hard about the rear mount?

 

If its crooked like you say then this has to be a 92-95 swap and that means you need the conversion mount, because it has a slant to it so it straightens the motor. If this is a 96-00 then you did something seriously wrong becasue you need manual mounts from a 96-00 and it fits perfect. 92-95 mounts wont even fit on 96-00 without alot of stress.

 

It is a 92 d15b7 manual swap into a 92 automatic. The manual swap had all the mounts with it, and I double checked to make sure they were right. And there actually is a difference between some of the mounts, and I have all the manual ones.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ccjustin &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What was so hard about the rear mount? </TD></TR></TABLE>Because I only had 2 jackstands, the car was leaned backward while the engine was levelly lowered in, and I had the polyurethane inserts which mad it a tight squeeze. I really need some input on this. thanks

 

You have to get the auto to manual mount. You cant use a regular manual mount.

 

hasport makes a auto to man mount you have to get this mount.the auto mount sits higher if i remember correctly

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civictype-r &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hasport makes a auto to man mount you have to get this mount.the auto mount sits higher if i remember correctly</TD></TR></TABLE>If I'm not mistaken, you can get one for under $190 MSRP.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NVturbo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If I'm not mistaken, you can get one for under $190 MSRP. </TD></TR></TABLE>
If you're serious, then expletive that. It's not worth 190

 

passwordjdm has one made by Innovative for $99 plus shipping.

 

not worth 190?

Is it worth the price for what ur going to be paying in damages? I'm sure it's going to throw the tire weight off, so you won't get good wear on the tires, which will kindly lead to poor gas mileage, one day ur gonna gas it too hard and snap a mount, that outta be interesting, never actually seen an engine fall out of a car, should be good for a few laughs

Never-the-less, I don't know much about mounts when it comes to what u need for conversions etc., but what i do know is if your engine is crooked, ur axles CAN'T be perpendicular to the engine and still be straight

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Syndacate &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">not worth 190?

Is it worth the price for what ur going to be paying in damages? I'm sure it's going to throw the tire weight off, so you won't get good wear on the tires, which will kindly lead to poor gas mileage, one day ur gonna gas it too hard and snap a mount, that outta be interesting, never actually seen an engine fall out of a car, should be good for a few laughs

Never-the-less, I don't know much about mounts when it comes to what u need for conversions etc., but what i do know is if your engine is crooked, ur axles CAN'T be perpendicular to the engine and still be straight</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well, not to be an ******* or anything, but after reading your sig., I'll just have to disregard that

 

just get the mount from passwordjdm.com and save yourself from futur problems you might have.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by redsikiller &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
If you're serious, then expletive that. It's not worth 190</TD></TR></TABLE>Okays...here is one for a few bucks cheaper --&gt; http://hasport.com/catalog/pro...d=115

 

so is it the mount on the rear of the tranny, or the mount on the top of the tranny that's making it crooked? I'm replacing the tranny because it broke somehow, maybe something related to the weird angle of the axles...? I don't know, but I wanna get the right mount befor I put the new tranny back in.

 

top of the tranny.

 

if u want to be a cheap a$$, then do what my buddy did in his EG auto to manual.... got a big *** sludge hammer, nocked out the passenger mount , re-welded it back on in the right location... looks like crap, very unsafe, and a lot of work......

cars r not cheap.... fixing them up is def not cheap... if u dont want to spend even a lil bit on a kit that makes ur MOTOR sit in ur car right.... then there is something terribly wrong here .02

 

its that top trans mount... you can take it out and then all the other four mounts will bolt up like butta..

but what you need to do is drill out the spot welds and then knock that stamped steel braket off the frame rail with a hammer... buy the new manual trans bracket from honda for like 40 bucks and weld it in at a muffler shop for like 10 bucks

total cost ~$50

 

actually I found out the "fucked tranny" was a broken cv joint. phew... still gotta take car of the crooked engine though.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MonkeyMagic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">its that top trans mount... you can take it out and then all the other four mounts will bolt up like butta..

but what you need to do is drill out the spot welds and then knock that stamped steel braket off the frame rail with a hammer... buy the new manual trans bracket from honda for like 40 bucks and weld it in at a muffler shop for like 10 bucks

total cost ~$50
</TD></TR></TABLE>

So what you guys are saying, is that the mount on the tranny is cool, but it is the bracket on the car frame that is in a different position than on the frames made for manual...?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by redsikiller &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

So what you guys are saying, is that the mount on the tranny is cool, but it is the bracket on the car frame that is in a different position than on the frames made for manual...?

</TD></TR></TABLE>

yes you have to either A: re-weld the The pass. side trans mount (which is unsafe ) and unless you want to do a lot of math to get the motor sitting perfect ) or B: spend the money on th hasport auto to manual mount save all the frustration. and have it right. most likly reason for your cv joint problem ist the mounts