I am getting 12V to the Black/yellow wire to the distributor.
Checked ignition coil primary/secondary resistance, it passed.

What else is inside the distributor that needs checking? How?
Car has 200k miles. Will igniter last this long? Thanks.




Modified by AccordEX1991 at 5:08 PM 4/3/2006

 

Normally its the coil that goes out not the Igniter.

I have fixed dozens of these and normally you just need to replace the coil and away you go.

Good luck

 

I have to disagree. On the 4th generation if you are getting 12v at the black and yellow, you've got a bad ignitor. Don't waste $80 on a coil. I've also seen dist caps that had spit out the little carbon button in the center.

 

Thanks for the replies.
The black and yellow wire came from Fuse#4 under the dash for +12V.
So that should have 12V with ignition switch ON.

Checked the ignition coil primary resistance and has 1.0 ohm. Secondary has 24k ohms. So the coil is good.

Bought a new ignition module and still no spark. I am lost.
Any ideas where to check next? Thanks.

 

Check all your grounds particularly the one on the thermostat housing. Have you checked for spark on all wires?

 

i want you to try a quick test,,,,,,,,,,,first off reconnect everything, and hook up all the wires to coil and ignitor,, leave the distributor cap off......

Now use a test lite, put the ignition key on,, chk for power on coil pos and neg wires you shoud have power on both ,, put the test lite on the coil neg side and a good ground, have someone crank the engine, if the test lite pulses you got a bad coil ..if it does not pulse you got a bad ignitor ...
if you did not have power on both wires at the coil , start by checking the connections at distributor ,,,
take a good look at the rotor as well

 

Ok, I tested the ignition coil with ignition switch ON.
Both positive and negative terminals has power.


I put a new ignitor. Still no spark.
When I crank the engine, the test lite pulses a little which should be normal.
Remember the old contact point type?
With ignitor system, the ignitor provides a path to ground and opens the primary coil to generate the spark, right?
I am lost now. Anymore ideas?
Thanks

 

you got the test lite on the negative side of the coil correct??? if test lite pulses while someone cranks the engine.. it points to a bad coil..

 

Yeah, test lite is on the negative terminal and it pulses.
Does that mean the coil is shot?
I thought the negative is supposed to pulse or cycle ON/OFF to generate the spark.
I'll try a new coil today and let you know what happens.
Thanks.

 

Got the car running finally.

It was the ignition coil. The coil tested ok on primary and secondary resistance.
Bought a new one, put it in, and the car started. I can't believe it. Can't rely on resistance test alone.

I figure I will let you guys updated. Thanks Honda Master for the help.


Modified by AccordEX1991 at 5:09 PM 4/3/2006