Before you flame, I did check FAQ and also used search function and couldn't find anything on installation. (If you know of a thread, please point me in the right direction. Thanks!)

I am considering either a VAFC2 or Hondata S200. I'm definitely leaning more towards the Hondata. I've seen the S200 shown most places for $295, but does this include everything needed to hook it up to an ITR? And is this a hard modification to do at home? Do you need to solder parts to the ecu board? I have a 97 so it's obd2a. Is there any wiring diagram or walkthrough available on H-T or the internet? All info is appreciated, thanks!

 

You would have a jumper harness and an 0bd1 ECU that can be chipped to run the s200. You have to solder in a 3 pin connecter for the blue box and one other chip to read an external rom. Better than a vafc....you can control ignition timing and fuel.

 

What mods do you have? What's the reason for this purchase? What are your peak whp goals? Do you have all the parts now or are you lego building?

 

No, it is not jsut a plug and play unit. You will need an OBD I P28 or P72 ecu, which you will need to get socketed to fit the Hondata chip and a converter harness to connect it to your factory harness. then you will need to have it professionally tuned.

 

As everyone else has said:

1) S200 System - $295
2) OBD1 ECU - $125-$325
3) Jumper Harness (OBD2A-OBD1) - $75
4) Install and tuning - $50-$150/hour

Just a comment. If you don't plan to tune it yourself or have any interest in fooling around with datalogging then just get the S100. If you have the extra money get the S300 system for $595. It is a far better value and a much better platform as compared to the S100/S200 systems.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nholmes &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What mods do you have? What's the reason for this purchase? What are your peak whp goals? Do you have all the parts now or are you lego building?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm running pretty much stock. WHP goals haven't been set yet since I'm still waiting to get a baseline run done, but I hope to end up with 205+ whp by the end of the year. I have B&M FPR, AEM CAI, AEM pulleys (ALT, PS), 8mm NGK blue wires and ACT Streetlite Flywheel (12.5 lbs). I am "lego building" (as my wallet allows), but I know that if I can tune the motor, I will get the best results I can as I continue to add parts here and there.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ausmith &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">As everyone else has said:

1) S200 System - $295
2) OBD1 ECU - $125-$325
3) Jumper Harness (OBD2A-OBD1) - $75
4) Install and tuning - $50-$150/hour

Just a comment. If you don't plan to tune it yourself or have any interest in fooling around with datalogging then just get the S100. If you have the extra money get the S300 system for $595. It is a far better value and a much better platform as compared to the S100/S200 systems.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks everyone! This is what I needed to know. I was under the assumption that the S200 would be just added on to my stock OBD2a ecu and then I could have it tuned properly at the dyno. I was also interested withe the launch control and 3 step features of the S200 but I guess $295 complete was too good to be true! For around $300, would you recommend the VAFC to set VTEC engagement a little lower and edit A/F? Or is the VAFC really as worthless as many claim? Thanks again!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by shotenITR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm running pretty much stock.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Dude, I don't think you need either a VAFC or Hondata.

Unless you just want to move around your VTEC cross over point and have some crazy LEDs in your car, you don't need a VAFC.

That's just my opinion, you can do whatever you want.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nholmes &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Dude, I don't think you need either a VAFC or Hondata.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

If he wants to be over 200whp he will need to have some sort of engine mgt.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jetydosa &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

If he wants to be over 200whp he will need to have some sort of engine mgt.</TD></TR></TABLE>
even like 190ishwhp to the ground it's a good investment, i've also heard of people getting like 10-14whp on stock ITRs from the Hondata units

 

Hondata ona Stock R will make power. 10-14 might be a stretch but you could make decent midrange power and make a more linear curve. WIll need to retun when parts are added but it's a great investment. VAFC is like bringing a knife to a gun fight. Get the Hondata and do it right once.

 

If you go with Hondata, you won't be limited as you swap out parts for power.

 

Thanks for the advice. Hondata sounds like the way to go then. Is there any obd1 ecu you prefer over others?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by shotenITR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thanks for the advice. Hondata sounds like the way to go then. Is there any obd1 ecu you prefer over others?</TD></TR></TABLE>

This has been covered 1000x...

'95 GS-R P72 ECU is all you need.

http://www.hondata.com/ecus.html

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nholmes &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

This has been covered 1000x...

'95 GS-R P72 ECU is all you need.

http://www.hondata.com/ecus.html</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks holmes....

 

P28's are cheaper than p72's.

 

Something you should keep in mind though is that Hondata is great, although most good tunes are good for your current set up and nothing else major. I would wait on Hondata until you get a couple more things. All Im saying is that you will get power right now with Hondata from a good tuner (I have seen this first hand on a couple of occasions). Although depending on how many other things you will plan to do later down the line your retune fees may become expensive to keep your car in perfect working order.

-s

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Rdriver &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">P28's are cheaper than p72's. </TD></TR></TABLE>

 

would it make any difference p28 wit hondata vs p72 wit hondata?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LdyJeRk &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">would it make any difference p28 wit hondata vs p72 wit hondata? </TD></TR></TABLE>

someone correct me because i havent looked at this stuff in a while but the only thing your going to gain is the knock sensor reading with the p72... and some like and some think it's pointless... if i ever go with it, i'll be doing a p28 and s100 and be done

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by neo_ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

That, and the P72 can control the secondary runners on the intake manifold which come on GSRs. Without it, they stay open all the time and you loose power at low to midrange. It also has a knock sensor like you said, but if you are changing pistons it will be worthless.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i thought we were talking about use with ITR