Window wont go all the way up
The window can almost go all the way up but once it is about an inch from the top it makes a grinding sound. I think maybe some sort of gear is missing teeth but im not sure. Any ideas would be great also any part numbers if you know. This is annoying as hell.
You need to include some more information. Year, make, model of Accord. Most people put it in their signature, so they don't have to keep typing it. I have some information about the window, if it's a 4th gen.
It's possible that the glass has ended up on the wrong side of the window channel run it normally travels in. If that's the case, it goes up until it binds in the track (cuz it;s now misaligned) and the regulator's about to take a powder. This could be caused by either a loose or misadjusted rear window channel guide; allowing the front of the glass to pop out of it's track.
More info please
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More info please
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by metalhead8816 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">its a 99 coupe ex. driver side window power</TD></TR></TABLE>
you need a window regulator........
you need a window regulator........
Here's the illustration of the door window system.

http://www.hondaautomotivepart...INDOW
It is more than likely that you'll need a replacement regulator (as previously mentioned) but I would ask you to check one thing; If even with you helping to pull the glass up, it won't close, then the glass has come off the track, jammed and has started damaging the regulator.
The window channel run I refered to earlier is #11
The window guides which normally cause this are #6 and #9
You're gonna have to do an exploratory whichever way it goes.
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http://www.hondaautomotivepart...INDOW
It is more than likely that you'll need a replacement regulator (as previously mentioned) but I would ask you to check one thing; If even with you helping to pull the glass up, it won't close, then the glass has come off the track, jammed and has started damaging the regulator.
The window channel run I refered to earlier is #11
The window guides which normally cause this are #6 and #9
You're gonna have to do an exploratory whichever way it goes.
P
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happened in mycivc,
the teeth wore off on the top side of the regulator.
go to a junk yard and grab the whole thing (was about 50 bucks with motor)
then you will have a spare motor laying around.
its an easy install
the teeth wore off on the top side of the regulator.
go to a junk yard and grab the whole thing (was about 50 bucks with motor)
then you will have a spare motor laying around.
its an easy install
It's #21 for the driver-side (left) in the illustration. It seems you can get the motor and regulator separate for your particular model. Link below.
http://www.hondaautomotivepart...INDOW
http://www.hondaautomotivepart...INDOW
You also have the option of going with an aftermarket Regulator/motor assembly such as this:
http://store.yahoo.com/dpstore/pwaem183.html
Considering the age of the vehicle, and how long you intend to keep it; I'd suggest going with the OEM Honda unit.
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http://store.yahoo.com/dpstore/pwaem183.html
Considering the age of the vehicle, and how long you intend to keep it; I'd suggest going with the OEM Honda unit.
P
Sorry I don't mean to steal your thread but I have a 98 accord coupe and my passanger power window goes up about 3/4 of the way and stops, then I have to pull on it with my hand to get it to close all the way, do you guys think that I need a regulator as well? thanks .
Are you getting more than the usual wind noise from the passenger's window when closed? When you inspect the glass fit when fully closed, does it look correct; or does it stick out either on the front or back edge?
If either of these conditions exist, most likely the windows jumped it's track and is binding because the window channel run folds and binds the glass while it's going up.

The window channel run (#7/11) is 'U' shaped in cross-section in which the glass slides. What usually happens is the rear guide channel (#6/10) either loosens or bends enough that it allows the window to become loose between the two uprights and would pop out to the wrong side of the channel run.
You've got a date with the inside of your door
P
If either of these conditions exist, most likely the windows jumped it's track and is binding because the window channel run folds and binds the glass while it's going up.

The window channel run (#7/11) is 'U' shaped in cross-section in which the glass slides. What usually happens is the rear guide channel (#6/10) either loosens or bends enough that it allows the window to become loose between the two uprights and would pop out to the wrong side of the channel run.
You've got a date with the inside of your door

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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BoostedH23Accord »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">[url=http://www.thread deleted[/url]
Hit me up...</TD></TR></TABLE>
And this relates to this thread How???
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Hit me up...</TD></TR></TABLE>
And this relates to this thread How???
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