Block wasn't cracked! How do these machining prices sound?
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From: here n there n everywhere
W00t! The block i had wasnt cracked. Machine shop just called me back today, took them long enough though, I dropped the block and crank off last monday and they are just now getting back to me
w/e its that time of the season...
Ok so the block isnt cracked and here are the prices they gave me for all the machine shop work i need done, please let me know if you think these are good/decent/bad i have never gotten machine work done so i am clueless....
Bore/Hone .5 over = $120
Hot Tank = $60
Micropolish Crank = $48
Deck Block = $140
Balance Rotating Assembly = $195
*Shortblock Assembly = $300 (i will probably assemble myself with the help of a buddy)
What do you think?
w/e its that time of the season...Ok so the block isnt cracked and here are the prices they gave me for all the machine shop work i need done, please let me know if you think these are good/decent/bad i have never gotten machine work done so i am clueless....
Bore/Hone .5 over = $120
Hot Tank = $60
Micropolish Crank = $48
Deck Block = $140
Balance Rotating Assembly = $195
*Shortblock Assembly = $300 (i will probably assemble myself with the help of a buddy)
What do you think?
thats not to bad. whos gonna assemble it with you?
also, the guy i used to use when i lived in poughkeepsie said there is no reason to balance the rotating assembly. and hes built more 1000+ horepower motors than the machine shop yer using has ever SEEN. so its up to you if u wanna spend the $200
also, the guy i used to use when i lived in poughkeepsie said there is no reason to balance the rotating assembly. and hes built more 1000+ horepower motors than the machine shop yer using has ever SEEN. so its up to you if u wanna spend the $200
Save yourself $60 by not tanking it. Ask them if they are going to use the same process and chemicals as they do with american blocks. I would just ask them to make sure they clean the block out.
Save another $48 for the microploish. Unless you are talking about the journals. You should not need to polish the counter-weights. You should not need to polish the journals unles they have minor scoreing.
In the end its up to you though. GL.
Save another $48 for the microploish. Unless you are talking about the journals. You should not need to polish the counter-weights. You should not need to polish the journals unles they have minor scoreing.
In the end its up to you though. GL.
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I would definitely get the crank balanced. You don't need to have the pistons and rods balanced if your running forged internals, they should be within a gram of eachother when you get them, but Honda factory cranks are usually alittle out of balance. Just have them deck, bore/hone the block and balance/ micropolish the crank, and You should be ready to check the clearences. Also if your going to be assembling the motor you'll need to gap the rings, or you can have the machine shop do it.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by I Have an STD »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">um, honda cranks are balanced from the factory.</TD></TR></TABLE>
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Plus 1
If they took this long to get back to you, you better be ready to wait for them to do the actual work. My favorite place to get machine work done takes forever (my block took 7 months. lol) but they gave me a smoking deal on it and I've known them for awhile.
I don't remember exactly what everything costs, but by the looks of those prices the only thing I'd say is a "good" deal is the micropolishing. I just had a block/crank/girdle hot tanked and it was $31. Now, they'll have to clean it many of times, but if they get the whole assembly job I would consider that part of the assembly.
Or maybe I'm just cheap.
I don't remember exactly what everything costs, but by the looks of those prices the only thing I'd say is a "good" deal is the micropolishing. I just had a block/crank/girdle hot tanked and it was $31. Now, they'll have to clean it many of times, but if they get the whole assembly job I would consider that part of the assembly.
Or maybe I'm just cheap.
I think those prices are a tad high, our machine shop locally only charged I beleive $25 for hot tanking our y8 a few months back...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by I Have an STD »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">um, honda cranks are balanced from the factory.</TD></TR></TABLE>
That's funny because every crank I've had checked was out of balance. They do balance the crank somewhat from the factory. Some are off more then others.
That's funny because every crank I've had checked was out of balance. They do balance the crank somewhat from the factory. Some are off more then others.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by I Have an STD »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">um, honda cranks are balanced from the factory.</TD></TR></TABLE>true but when you check them, they are most always out of balance
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ti3d in »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Is that too expensive to deck the block? I've seen a lot of people offer bore, hone, deck, and hot tank for around 200 bucks. </TD></TR></TABLE>good shops charge a lot more than that. The deck of the block needs to shine like a mirror. Most v-8 shops cannot accomplish that. Benson charges like $150 just for a surface.
very true. earl i just wanted to let you know yer the man. i know u dont remember it, but my buddy had to call u a couple months ago late one night to get torque specs for some ARP rod bolts. i torqued em to your spec and the motor is running to this day. just wanted to say thanks for that phone number in your sig and your willingness to help
for earl
Brett
for earlBrett
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From: here n there n everywhere
So the decking IS necessary? I was going to skip it cause im pretty sure the deck is true and i thought you only needed it if it was warped or something. ? But it doesnt look like a mirror so maybe i should get it decked.
But then i have this dilemma- the crank from my old block is still good and its knife-edged and micropolished maybe i should just reuse it?
P.S> just pulled the crower rods and my god are they thick
But then i have this dilemma- the crank from my old block is still good and its knife-edged and micropolished maybe i should just reuse it?
P.S> just pulled the crower rods and my god are they thick
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbotime »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So the decking IS necessary? I was going to skip it cause im pretty sure the deck is true and i thought you only needed it if it was warped or something. ? But it doesnt look like a mirror so maybe i should get it decked.</TD></TR></TABLE>
That depends. Is it scratched, or just dirty/oxidised?
The most **** ppl here will say just deck it regardless, which is good advice if you have a lot of skrill caught up in your build. On the other side of the coin, there is a very good chance you'd be fine not decking the block as long as it is true and the deck surface is unscratched.
That depends. Is it scratched, or just dirty/oxidised?
The most **** ppl here will say just deck it regardless, which is good advice if you have a lot of skrill caught up in your build. On the other side of the coin, there is a very good chance you'd be fine not decking the block as long as it is true and the deck surface is unscratched.
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